oldodge41 Posted November 3, 2014 Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 I think I'll build mine to run on eight volts, just to start trouble.... HehHehHeh... I ran my Plymouth as 6 volt for several years, but when it's rebuilt it will be at least 12 volts. I do run an 8 volt system on my '41. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ulu Posted November 3, 2014 Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 Not surprising. I've converted a couple old tractors to 8 volts. It makes up for lots of aging parts & a boon in cold weather. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meadowbrook Posted November 3, 2014 Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 Just remember, the 6V starter will sound slower than what you may be used to hearing from modern cars. My '50 cranks slowly and sounds like a 12V starter on a low battery, but it will keep cranking seemingly forever like that if I dry to start it after a very long time of sitting because it has to fill the carb with fuel. I have a new battery, new proper sized cables and clean connections. I actually thought of getting a 6V electric pump to avoid this, but then again, maybe it is better for the engine to crank a while after a long slumber to build oil pressure than to start immediately. Just my 2 pesos' worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted November 3, 2014 Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 that is a little food for though on oil pressure prior to speedy revs...and on top of that...deep cycling a battery for good life...and another thing we need more of in the world..an exercise in patience... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ulu Posted November 3, 2014 Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 Good point. My 3800cc Pontiac starts instantly. Click-boom! it's running. My 4000cc Toyota cranks a couple times, then the computer starts it. Not before. It has to kick up the pressure or something to trigger the computer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted November 3, 2014 Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 odds are it takes a couple revs to sync the crank to the cam sensor to determine piston sequence and stroke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meadowbrook Posted November 4, 2014 Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 Where can I find a NOS cam sensor for the 230 flathead? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted November 4, 2014 Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 Where can I find a NOS cam sensor for the 230 flathead? Cam sensor on my older 190 flathead pick up is in about the center of the cam. Works off of a gear like machined part of the cam. Sensor itself sticks out of the engine on the driver's side and is a combination unit with most of the rest of the ignition system components. I think the call it a “distributor”. You might want to check to see if it is in the same place on your later 218 and 230 engines. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted November 4, 2014 Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 TodFitch, on 03 Nov 2014 - 10:39 PM, said:Cam sensor on my older 190 flathead pick up is in about the center of the cam. Works off of a gear like machined part of the cam. Sensor itself sticks out of the engine on the driver's side and is a combination unit with most of the rest of the ignition system components. I think the call it a “distributor”. You might want to check to see if it is in the same place on your later 218 and 230 engines. That is scary Tod. You are starting to sound like me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
likaleica Posted November 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 Just to update everyone: After quite a long online search I located a new 6v three position switch with an on-board 30 amp fuse in the US and I'm now just waiting for it to be shipped. The operating knob is not dissimilar to the original. Thanks to the advice on here I'll also source some correct gauge cable to hook it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted November 4, 2014 Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 (edited) read ulu's post...to that is the reference to the sensor...often it takes reading all thread replies to fill in the blank spots...as my answer was just below that is the actual reference if out of order then a quote would have been proper...please read the forum Edited November 4, 2014 by Plymouthy Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian41D-19 Posted November 10, 2014 Report Share Posted November 10, 2014 (edited) Whether or not the new switch is acceptable depends on the current (amp) rating of the switch. If it is rated equal to, or higher than the original, it would be fine. As for 12V versus 6V it is really a matter of personal choice. I rewired my 1941 Dodge a couple of years ago for 6V but I made provisions to go 12V if I decide to. Advantage to 6V is originality but price and availability of parts are benefits of 12V in my opinion. Both work fine. i have a 41 dodge me too ! all the wiring harness is the original on my car but it work fine ! i don't know for the plymouth of our UK friend but i have a glass tube SFE 30 for the headlight, this fuse is also for the turn signal, but i dont think you have tune sigal on the plymouth. if the car is still in 6V i think it's a good idea to keep it like that. check your battery cables, be sure they are of the good diameter, enough for 6V. i remember when i buy my 55 dodge royal lancer coupe, the previous guy switch the original 6V systeme for a 12V. he replace the battery cables for smaller one, adapted for 12V. this guy did a very poor job by the way, i just change the headlight, stop lights and tailllight. All of the other light he keep the 6V bulb on it, of course everything's burn hahaha anyway, when i replace by the original 6V system with the small battery calbles, the starter turn very very slowly, like a sloooowwww mooootionnn and the cable overheat and the car don't start. try to keep it in 6V it's not so hard to find bulbs, cables specialy in UK !! i'm french and i find every electry suply in UK for my 41 dodge. on this website AES http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/home you can find every braided cable to build a new wiring harnes differents colors/size, everything you need to keep your car in good condition without switch it to 12V for the spark plug wire too, i buy cable buy the yard, conectors and i made my spark plug wires by myself it a cooper ame like the good old one, i read somewhere the new type of spark plug wire is not adapted for our old system you can find the old type of conector like we have on our old mopar bullet type with the conectors single double and 5 way Edited November 10, 2014 by Adrian41D-19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian41D-19 Posted November 10, 2014 Report Share Posted November 10, 2014 Good point. My 3800cc Pontiac starts instantly. Click-boom! it's running. My 4000cc Toyota cranks a couple times, then the computer starts it. Not before. It has to kick up the pressure or something to trigger the computer. my 41 start at the first try every day my 55 strat perfectly too in this video the idle is a little bit high, it's before i check the automatic choke. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted November 10, 2014 Report Share Posted November 10, 2014 Excellent clip, Adrian. As a kid I had a 55 Plymouth with that same color combo and the little poly v-8, I think 259 ci? I loved that shift lever in the dash because I could run it up pretty high and then bump the lever into high. I guess I'll have to dig out the pictures of that car and stare at them tonight. Thanks for posting that, its great fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian41D-19 Posted November 11, 2014 Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 thanks Niel ! it's a 270ci, i don't remember, i sold this car in august cause i find a lovely roadster ford model A of 1929, at this time, the only mopar i have is my 41 dodge coupe, it's my favorite, i can't never sold it ! here is a photo of my car, departure for a holiday road trip with 2 friends, it was a 1200 miles road trip !! a lot of fun ^^ and my model A 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted November 11, 2014 Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 The little Ford is cute, but I think I would rather have the big blue dodge! That's a nice car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyd Posted November 11, 2014 Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 Hello everyone, Newbie here. I just acquired a '41 Chrysler Royal. How do I tell if someone has changed the wiring to negative ground? The neg. cable is to the ground but they could have just changed the terminal ends. Thanks for the help and I am glad I found this forum! Loyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted November 11, 2014 Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 Loyd, on 11 Nov 2014 - 1:10 PM, said: Hello everyone, Newbie here. I just acquired a '41 Chrysler Royal. How do I tell if someone has changed the wiring to negative ground? The neg. cable is to the ground but they could have just changed the terminal ends. Thanks for the help and I am glad I found this forum! Loyd Does the amp gauge show positive or negative when charging? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ulu Posted November 12, 2014 Report Share Posted November 12, 2014 The amp gage could be wired backwards as well, but any cheap voltmeter will tell the real story. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seaside Pete Posted November 12, 2014 Report Share Posted November 12, 2014 Does the amp gauge show positive or negative when charging? AH This comment has raised an issue that I have. My 47 has been changed to 12V neg Earth. Whilst upgrading the wiring and adding fuses I noticed that when the Amp meter is loaded ie switch the lights on etc the meter moves towards + and when I start the Car it moves back towards the - which is surely wrong. Can you just swap the wires around, or would that cause some other problems?thanks Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted November 12, 2014 Report Share Posted November 12, 2014 reverse the leads on the ammeter..you will be ok with this.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted November 12, 2014 Report Share Posted November 12, 2014 You should find 3 leads on one post and on lead on the other post. First disconnect the battery then simply swap these leads. Suggest you use new star washers and make sure you get the leads good and tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seaside Pete Posted November 12, 2014 Report Share Posted November 12, 2014 Thanks Guys Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
likaleica Posted November 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2014 Adrian's 55 dodge is a real beauty - and I don't know if he would agree, could almost look a bit Gallic with that front end treatment that reminds me a little of Simcas and other French cars of the era. Would be great to see more pix of the Dodge! On the practical front, thanks to Adrian and others for yet more useful info. On balance I've decided to stay with the 6V system. Still waiting for my new headlamp switch to arrive from the US. Meanwhile if business commitments allow I'll fit the remanufactured brake master cylinder and bleed the hydraulics as advised on the forum. With luck, "The Beast" as I call her will be on the road by the end of the month so I'll keep you posted! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Labrauer Posted November 23, 2014 Report Share Posted November 23, 2014 (edited) I have to agree with Uncle-Pekka in what he has said about the changing of these cars and the way they have been made. Being just as dependable as a modern car of today's technologist with all the computer stuff to go wrong. I know that in my more modern car that my wife has if something goes wrong you have to take it to the dealer and it seems that even they guess to what is wrong. I like the body stiles of these old cars and trucks and I like the way that if you need to fix something that goes wrong you can do it yourself. I like the way the engine sounds going down the country road but on the freeway it worries me a little so I am installing a R10 overdrive in the coupe this winter. As far as 6 volt it is ok as I haven't had a bit of trouble out of it so far. I sometimes on these 100 degree days here in Texas would have liked to have air conditioning but then again it all boils down to that we are spoiled on air conditioning these days. How many modern cars these days do you see running around with the window down on hot days. Back in the days when I grew up and many of the older guys on the forum didn't grow up with air conditioning or many of the comforts of today. It all boils down to what you want out of the car be it new or old and what comforts you want. Changing the engine from a flat head 6 to a V8 is only the person that has the cars decision as for 6 volt or 12 volt. Make your call and just do it whether it be 12 or 6 volt, disc brakes, mustang front end, dual exhaust, more carbs., ect. Either way you turn there are plenty smart people on the forum that can help you.. Edited November 23, 2014 by Labrauer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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