1939 Plymouth Business Coupe

[1952B3b23]

Small Update:

 

I've been tinkering away on the car. I've replaced all the 1939 wiring and have that 95% done, just need to tie up some loose ends. Once that's done my next task is going to be to put the engine and transmission back in.

 

Does any one know what torque the flywheel to crankshaft bolts should be tightened to, and also the torque on the pressure plate to flywheel bolts?

 

I looked in the service manual and didn't see it. Thanks in advance.

 

-Chris

[Don Coatney]

This is a standard torque chart. Most engine hardware is grade 8. 

 

http://www.portlandbolt.com/technical/bolt-torque-chart/

[Plymouthy Adams]

55-60 on flywheel nuts (not sure of the truck manual but are listed in the car books, engine section below specs, torque chart) 15-20 for the clutch cover (clutch section, below specs in torque chart)

 

Edit..these are from the 46-54 service manual...I just looked at my 36-42 and yes..the specs are not in torque tables..WOW..who would have thought?

Edited October 27, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams

[1952B3b23]

Thanks for the fast reply guys. I was surprised to see it wasn't listed in the manual either!

 

-Chris

[Plymouthy Adams]

after making the post at first...I realized..hey, maybe I best look at the earlier manual before making such a brash statement...am glad I did...was very surprised to see the lack of such pertinent data.  There are things in the older book not in the new but for the overall better coverage..the Plymouth book of 46-54 is pretty much a overall good source..the Dodge book of 41-48 is also a bit lacking in areas also..I have a number of books here plus Motors of the era that I source constantly for posting best data..

[Young Ed]

Stuff changes. The 46-48 wiring diagram doesn't have the wire gauge but the 49-54 ones do.

[1952B3b23]

I've been chipping away at the car when i can and have gotten a few things done. I rewired it, painted the firewall semi-gloss black, and got the engine and transmission back in the car. It's quite the milestone for me but there's still a bunch of stuff to get done. I've attached a few pictures of the engine installed for your viewing pleasure.

 

Thanks for looking,

 

-Chris

[casper50]

Looks pretty good Chris.  Think how much better it would look if you painted the frame.  lol

[1952B3b23]

Thanks. Yea you make a good point but in the interest of time I decided to skip painting the frame. It would bother me to know only the front part of the frame is painted and not the entire thing. Down the road (after a few more projects get done). I'd like to take the car completely apart, blast the frame , body, and really go through the entire thing to make sure it'll last at least another 76 years. I want to start driving and enjoying it again as soon as I can. So mechanicals and safety stuff are at the top of the list.

Edited November 23, 2015 by 1952B3b23

[fstfish66]

take it apart again down the road ?? been there done that,,,theres an  old saying,when it runs ,its done,,lol

[1952B3b23]

take it apart again down the road ?? been there done that,,,theres an old saying,when it runs ,its done,,lol

Very true, who knows what the future will bring. I have good intentions anyway haha

[40plyrod]

Somehow I've missed this thread...Very nice work. I know what you mean about wanting to get it done and get driving it.

[1952B3b23]

Somehow I've missed this thread...Very nice work. I know what you mean about wanting to get it done and get driving it.

 

Thank you. Yea, i can't wait to be driving this thing again. I have a bunch of rust repair to tackle so that's next on the list.

[1952B3b23]

Here's a few pictures of some of the rusty areas on the right rear of the car. Not surprisingly the area where the rear fender mounts to the body is looking like swiss cheese. The last photo is a shot of a hole inside the trunk area. Although I'm quite surprised at how solid the car is for it's age. I'll be working on fixing this up in the coming weeks. I'll try and do a decent job of documenting my process with pictures for you guys.

 

-Chris 

[casper50]

Looks at least as bad as mine was.  Just do one hole at a time and you'll get there.

[deathbound]

I'm sure it will be the same high quality workmanship as usual.

[1952B3b23]

Thank you, i appreciate the kind words!

 

-Chris

[1952B3b23]

I have some rusted out areas on my car that are completely gone. So i have nothing there to help guide me in recreating the patch panels. One of these areas is the lower rear quarter panel right behind the passenger and drivers side door.

 

Could someone take some close up pictures of what this area looks like?

 

This might be a long shot but... if someone near me has a '39 coupe they would be willing to let me come and pull patterns off of I'd greatly appreciate it (and buy you lunch)! I'm located in Western, MA.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

-Chris

Edited December 8, 2015 by 1952B3b23

[1952B3b23]

I've been chipping away at some of the metal work on the car lately. I removed the rear fender on the passenger side and found some rusty, crusty metal. So i began the slow process of removing the rust. I like to use naval jelly to remove rust when i can, it doesn't harm the metal at all like it does grinding, and no chance of warping as with blasting. The problem with naval jelly is that it takes a long time and multiple applications to work. The important part is that it does work. I usually wire brush wheel the area first to remove as much flaky rust as possible. Then cover the rusted areas with jelly and put plastic wrap over them (this helps the jelly not dry out). I then let it sit for 24 hours and work its magic. If the area isn't to badly rusty ill wait 30- 60 mins (no plastic wrap). Next step is to scrape the jelly and rust off with some wood chisels. Wood chisels are good because they're sharp and scrape up the rust and jelly well. Then i wipe away any excess jelly and use the wire brush wheel on the surface. It takes multiple rounds to get all the heavy rust off and out of the pits in the metal. This is what i did to the rusty areas where the fender bolted to the car. I've attached a couple pics of the process, i'll have to get some pics of the final result.

 

While i was busting away the rust i began to work on the trunk support bracket which was completely rotted away at the bottom where it meets the trunk floor. This piece is made of 16 gauge steel. I got a chance to use my "new" ( aka 1930's Dreis-Krump finger brake) that i purchased for my self as a Christmas present to bend up the channel. With a bit of cutting, TIG welding, and grinding i got the new piece spliced in. I think it came out well and fits back in it's spot just like it should. Almost like i knew what i was doing  . Some of the pictures of it didn't come out that great with the crappy lighting, sorry for that. Next up i'll strip the paint off and paint it up.

 

Thanks for looking,

 

-Chris 

[casper50]

Very nice metal work Chris.

[1952B3b23]

Thank you!

[RobertKB]

Your car won the old car in need of a good owner lottery when you got it. I have followed the thread from the start and you have done some excellent work on a car many would have passed over because of the rust issues. Congratulations on great work and keep the thread going!

[1952B3b23]

Wow Robert thanks a lot for the compliments! I'm just trying to do my best and learn as much as I can. Not all the work I do comes out exactly the way I have it pictured perfectly in my mind, but that's part of learning and life. I just want to make sure I do my part to save this old girl from becoming a rusted out jalopy. I'm a young guy (27) so I hope to keep this car for a very long time . I really love the lines of it and everything about it. Especially that it's a coupe and not a ford or mercury.

Again thanks for the kind words,

-Chris

[Niel Hoback]

The next generations thank you for preserving history for them.

[RobertKB]

I got my first old car when I was 26 which was/is my 1953 Plymouth. Car is all original and I have only maintained it. I have owned the car for 40 years and enjoyed it all that time! I have restored a '48 Dodge club coupe and a '38 Chrysler, and am presently doing a '51 Dodge business coupe. I had to learn some welding for the '51 as the floors were gone and part of the rockers so it is possible to teach an old dog new tricks. So at 27, you have a long time ahead of you to work on these great old Mopars and keep them for the future. Hopefully you can keep and enjoy what you have done and also save a few more down the road. It's great to have the old car bug at an early age and be able to afford it because it can certainly be a life-long hobby. I still drive and enjoy all my old cars except the '51 which is a couple of years from being on the road.