51cambridge Posted August 23, 2014 Report Posted August 23, 2014 Well it seems i have a front wheel cylinder that leaks a little only when the car sits. any tips on where i can get them and shoes fast? any tips on doing this job are appreciated. Quote
nonstop Posted August 23, 2014 Report Posted August 23, 2014 I believe Napa can get them in a few days, or O'Reilly's and Autozone sell rebuild kits. Quote
51cambridge Posted August 23, 2014 Author Report Posted August 23, 2014 Thanks now having trouble finding shoes Quote
Young Ed Posted August 23, 2014 Report Posted August 23, 2014 Thanks now having trouble finding shoes you need to send them off to be relined. I use www.brakeplace.com Quote
garbagestate 44 Posted August 23, 2014 Report Posted August 23, 2014 Kanter auto restoration in Boonton N.J. may have them. If they do, they ship pretty fast. http://www.kanter.com/ Quote
51cambridge Posted August 24, 2014 Author Report Posted August 24, 2014 Ok rain stopped finally got the wheel pulled. appears everything was fairly new. Can you find the leak? appears both cylinders look new. Quote
soth122003 Posted August 24, 2014 Report Posted August 24, 2014 If it were me, I would clean everything up with brake clean including the hub, let dry and reinstall the hub temporarily. Then activate the brakes for a minute or two and check again. Looks like you might have a slow drip or weep. Joe Quote
51cambridge Posted August 24, 2014 Author Report Posted August 24, 2014 Yes that was my next step, i can see more on the photo than the car. Quote
suntennis Posted August 24, 2014 Report Posted August 24, 2014 Peal back the rubber on each wheel cylinder and check for dryness. If you see brake fluid, that cylinder is leaking. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted August 24, 2014 Report Posted August 24, 2014 Looks like a small W/cyl and or a line leak plus the wheel seal sweating out grease. Do as suggested above-clean up and recheck. Quote
51cambridge Posted August 24, 2014 Author Report Posted August 24, 2014 Bingo the lower is weeping. Now i have a shop manual and it is very vague. I have done drum brakes on cars before, nothing like this. So a little step by step removal and instalation would be a great help. Thanks all that helped so far. Quote
51cambridge Posted August 24, 2014 Author Report Posted August 24, 2014 Found what I need in the help files Quote
51cambridge Posted August 25, 2014 Author Report Posted August 25, 2014 Ok located the upper hold down. Now the lower is a nut with a cotter pin? And I'm supposed to hold the rectangular thing with arrow on it? Quote
desoto1939 Posted August 25, 2014 Report Posted August 25, 2014 Ok located the upper hold down. Now the lower is a nut with a cotter pin? And I'm supposed to hold the rectangular thing with arrow on it? In your last posting I can tell that you have not worked witht he Lokheed brake system. The pin that you are mentioning are the eccentric pins. These are not perfectly round they are an eccentric pin. They move the bottom, or also known as the heel of the shoe inward and up or downward and out. The pin is used to get the shoes to match the arc of the drum so that you have a good braking surface and to have the shoes in perfect alignment to the drum. Go to the technical section and review the process to adjust the brakes. There isa section on the use of the Miller Tool and also the Ammco Brake gage tool. If you have no experiecne of adjusting these brakes then do NOT again Do not move the eccentric. Get to know how they work first. As many of the forum members know that the use of the Ammco brake gage 1750 will help get the brakes adjusted properly. If you mess around witht he eccentrics then you might have a brake shoes dragging and or have a very soft pedal. Yes to your question you place a 1/2 open end wrench onthe flat spot on the eccentric to move it either clockwise or counter clockwise. Since you look to have new lining on the car You might beable to just clean the lining and fix the leak and not have to do anything witht eh eccentric pins. I do loan out the tool. If you need the tool contact me. Rich HArtung I live near Valley Forge PA. cell 484-431-8157 Home 610-630-9188 Desoto1939@aol.com Quote
51cambridge Posted August 25, 2014 Author Report Posted August 25, 2014 Exactly my plan. Not moving adjustments. Have it marked and photographs. Just need to know how to locate and remove lower hold down so I can replace cylinder Quote
desoto1939 Posted August 25, 2014 Report Posted August 25, 2014 Mike: My 39 Desoto has the single wheel cylinder so the setup of how the wheel cylinder is bolted to the backing plate is different that yours. I will let one of the members that have your braking setup reply. I do not want to give you any wrong directions.. Also when replacing the lower wheel cylinder be careful on the push pin that pushes the brake lining. I know some people have had issues inwhich the pin was a different length and this was giving them all kinds of issues. Save you older push pins as a reference. I think someone else will chime in on this topic. Rich HArtung Quote
soth122003 Posted August 25, 2014 Report Posted August 25, 2014 When you are finished with the repair and putting everything back together, make good and sure you leave a little residual grease on the spindles. That way the drums won't become stuck if you have to pull them in the future. Joe Quote
51cambridge Posted August 25, 2014 Author Report Posted August 25, 2014 Great advice guys, and thanks. Yes I did read about the pin. Quote
51cambridge Posted August 25, 2014 Author Report Posted August 25, 2014 Got it! unfortunatly I had to turn the adjuster,hopefully my pics and markings will pay off. Quote
_shel_ny Posted August 26, 2014 Report Posted August 26, 2014 Pics and markings will help with reassembly, but from the looks of the shoe wear in your pic your brakes were not properly adjusted to start with Quote
51cambridge Posted August 29, 2014 Author Report Posted August 29, 2014 Got everything back together, bled them,prayed lol. And she stops straight.thanks for all the help. Quote
captden29 Posted August 30, 2014 Report Posted August 30, 2014 the tapered fit of the drum and spindle is where you get the driving power transferred to the brake drum/rim/tire to move the car. there is not supposed to be grease there.funny thing is that I just learned that recently, and for the last 40 or so years I have always put a little grease there. I used never seize on my current 54 Windsor.the drums come off like melted butter if I need them off.not sure if that is the grease or just the fact that they have been off in the last few years.i have never had the aamco tool to adjust properly and except for my current car, they always adjusted well by not moving the lower pins from the original setting. my car now could use the proper adjusting as I had the brakes worked on by a garage when I broke down on a trip. they do not stop as well anymore.the 51 is a nice car and the m6 is odd but reliable. capt den 1 Quote
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