Flushed the block today

[Dajudge]

I pulled the welsh plugs today and flushed  junk out of the block.  Like usual I got a lot of "mud" out of it.  We knock new plugs in and changed the hoses.  Found that there was no thermostat.    so put a new one in.  Motor still gets hot.  The top of the block seems nice and clean and now the bottom is too.

 

I found that if  I would run water from a hose on the front of the radiator, the temp would come down and stay steady.  So, I am guessing that I need to pull the radiator and have it looked at.  If I kept the radiator cool, the engine's cooling system seem to work great.  Pulling the radiator is for another day.

 

Got a radiator for my daily driver 2004 GTO coming  as it decided to crap out on me Thursday.  I nursed it to my parents and left it in their garage waiting on parts.  On the cool side is Dad's garage threw me the keys to the 1964 Ford Fairlane 500 as my "rental."   It has been fun cruising around in 69k mile survivor.

[NiftyFifty]

If you have a honeycomb rad they seem to plug up pretty bad, probably time for a dip at the rad shop, but that has its downside too as then they sometimes knock the sludge out hiding leaks. Do you have a shroud and good spacing on your fan?

[ggdad1951]

If you have a honeycomb rad they seem to plug up pretty bad, probably time for a dip at the rad shop, but that has its downside too as then they sometimes knock the sludge out hiding leaks. Do you have a shroud and good spacing on your fan?

 

second this opinion on the rad...and sadly the potential fall out.  As far as I know no shroud was stock on these beasts, but if it helps you and you like the look, not a bad idea as an add.

[Don Coatney]

If originality is not important to you check out Champion aluminum radiators. I bought one and found out just how inefficient my old honeycomb radiator was. Cost is very reasonable compared to repairs or a re-core of the original radiator. Like GGDAD I don't believe a fan shroud was a factory option. If a shroud was not required when new then it should not be required now in my opinion.

 

[halffast52]

I agree with Don on the champion radiators I have one in my 52 biz coupe for 3 years with no issue's I was surprised how much cooler the engine runs with it even in heavy traffic I know they have gone up some in price since I got mine but still worth the money vs. getting the old one cleaned and repaired that's just my 2 cents worth best of luck with it

[Dajudge]

Wow thanks guys. My dad and I were talking tonight about pulling the honeycomb radiator out of the 49 that I have. You know for originality. But, I just want it to cool as best as possible. In theory it is going to be a daily driver to and from school for my daughter.

So now I am going to check out Champion. I just want it to work.

Thank you.

[Dajudge]

If originality is not important to you check out Champion aluminum radiators. I bought one and found out just how inefficient my old honeycomb radiator was. Cost is very reasonable compared to repairs or a re-core of the original radiator. Like GGDAD I don't believe a fan shroud was a factory option. If a shroud was not required when new then it should not be required now in my opinion.

 

Hey Don, do you happen to have a part number for your radiator? I'll get one on the way.

[Don Coatney]

The one I bought is a CC4749. I suggest you call Champion and tell them your application.

 

Here is there link

 

http://www.championradiators.com/

[NiftyFifty]

There is also an actual water distribution tube in the block, but it can't be pulled with the rad in the truck, and requires the water pump off I believe?? Been too long and my engine is buried under plastic hiding from sand blasting abrasive. I thought I had my block thoroughly flushed until I took it in for machine work and when they pulled the tube about 2 mouse nests and 50 years of crude came out...it would have been blocked for sure or run very hot. Just an idea if things don't get better with a flush or rad.

[Dajudge]

Thanks Don.

Yes, I have a new tube. I may change it when I do the radiator. The top of the block was clean. This truck has been driven all its life. I don't believe it sat around for years like most of the truck on here.

I truly believe I have a radiator problem. If I keep the radiator cool, the engine stays nice and cool. The system is working, just the radiator is not getting rid of the heat.

I'm calling Champion today and the changing the radiator out on my GTO.

Edited August 13, 2014 by Dajudge

[Jeff Balazs]

If anyone here has actually fitted one of these aluminum radiators to their B series truck / L6 engine combo I sure would be interested in hearing your comments or seeing some photos. This upgrade is at the top of my wish list for our climate.

 

Thanks, Jeff

[Don Coatney]

Jeff, I thought you once mentioned that you had your radiator re-cored. Is it not working as expected?

[Jeff Balazs]

Don;

I did but just had a 2 row core put in. Works but I had to refit the stock fan as it struggles with hot days and stop & go conditions with just the electric fan.

Would like something more efficient....maybe lose the stock fan again? I am also considering relocating to northern Arizona. Bottom line I want something as close to bulletproof as I can get it.

 

Jeff

[DJ194950]

Back a year or so ago when I bought my Champion 3 row rad. off ebay there was both 2 row and 3 row avail. for most Plymouth's.

 

Just mentioning to make sure that you ask for and get whichever you may desire.

 

DJ

[Dajudge]

Called Champion, no joy. They do not have a radiator for our trucks. I guess I will pull the existing one out and take it to the radiator shop. It is not the original honeycomb so hopefully they can fix it for me.

[Young Ed]

Called Champion, no joy. They do not have a radiator for our trucks. I guess I will pull the existing one out and take it to the radiator shop. It is not the original honeycomb so hopefully they can fix it for me.

 

The 46 1/2 ton work truck we use at the cabin has a early 50s car radiator. I believe it fit as is with only drilling either the upper or lower mounting holes to match. Call them back with your dimensions and see if a car one is close.

[Dajudge]

I'll try.  Took all day today to get someone to answer and even then sat on hold for 7 or 8 minutes after he said hold please the second time.

Edited August 14, 2014 by Dajudge

[The Oil Soup]

Called Champion, no joy. They do not have a radiator for our trucks. I guess I will pull the existing one out and take it to the radiator shop. It is not the original honeycomb so hopefully they can fix it for me.

Look at the dimensions on the website (or ebay) and the cc4749 is very close to the stock rad with the location of the filler neck and size and location of the hoses. I plan on getting one soon for my B4B, perhaps it's different on the earlier B series trucks?

[Don Coatney]

I'll try.  Took all day today to get someone to answer and even then sat on hold for 7 or 8 minutes after he said hold please the second time.

That is surprising. I got excellent service when I called Champion with a question.

 

 

 

 

This is from another thread but you might contact this forum member for his truck application.

 

 

I just installed a Champion rad in my 48 Truck haven't run it yet but it looks sweet . It's a quality but pice from the looks . 2 cents

[Jeff Balazs]

I would be interested to know how much the fluid capacity of the system would be affected by fitting one of these radiators. The published capacity of the stock system for my truck is supposed to be 17 1/2 quarts? With my re cored, non honeycomb radiator it is actually more like 12 quarts. And it seems to me I read somewhere that these aluminum radiators have a bit smaller capacity than the stock ones they are supposed to replace.

 

Jeff

[Dajudge]

I pulled the radiator Monday night.  Kaitlyn and I took it to Mr. Tiner here in town.  Tiner's radiator shop.  He put a new heater core in my 1966 Lemans convertible that I had in high school some 27ish years ago.  So I will wait to hear back from him. 

 

I think I am going to now fix a couple of loose oil fittings, clean the exterior of the engine and try to get some paint on it.  Anybody got a tip or two on cleaning and painting the engine while it is in the truck? 

Edited August 21, 2014 by Dajudge

[NiftyFifty]

Scrape and sand as much of the old paint and rust that you can, you can use Saranwrap or tin foil to cover wires and plumbing you don't want painted, remove as much easy stuff as you can and paint those brackets and bolts separate. Cleanliness is the key to paint sticking, and use a good brand name heat rated engine paint, and about 4-6 coats your first two being fairly thin.

Best advice I can gice

[Young Ed]

A couple summers ago I removed as much as I could and then used POR15 engine paint and a foam brush. It still looks great now. I used a drill and a wire wheel to clean it as best I could. The engine still looks quite nice but the shininess has burnt off its more of a flat color now.

From this:

 

To this:

[Dajudge]

That looks great. We don't need a show stopper, but would just like to clean it up. Looks like Por 15 and a few dozen foam brushes are in our future.

[Frank Elder]

I pulled the welsh plugs today and flushed  junk out of the block.  Like usual I got a lot of "mud" out of it.  We knock new plugs in and changed the hoses.  Found that there was no thermostat.    so put a new one in.  Motor still gets hot.  The top of the block seems nice and clean and now the bottom is too.

 

Did you remove the petcock on the bottom of the block? How about the valve covers? Lottsa stuff could still be hiding.