Painting the cab

[Bobacuda]

I am slowly approaching the painting phase of my truck rebuild.  Since I like to plan things out (over-think), I was wondering, "Do you paint the inside and outside of the cab at the same time, or do you tape off the paint the inside, let it dry, tape and mask off the doors and windows and then paint the outside?"  I can rationalize reasons to do it either way, but I assume there must be a preferred way.

 

Your thoughts?

 

 

[52b3b Joe]

I did mine all at the same time. I painted the entire inside then went to the outside. 

[Barry Maxwell]

I did mine all at the same time. I painted the entire inside then went to the outside.

I did the same. If I were to do it over again, I would probably mask the dash and perhaps various small areas.

Barry

[NiftyFifty]

I'm hoping to be back in this same position later this summer, but I would say the same, shoot the inside about 3-4 times and then more to the outside, just being mindful not to get runs by over spraying the inside again.

[Dave72dt]

The answers can depend somewhat on the type of paint you're spraying.  A slower drying paint such a acrylic enamel can be shot inside and outside at the same time.  Most of the overspray you'll get coming through openings will melt into the previous or inner coats.  Faster drying material like base/clear will have the overspray sticking on top of the previous coats and does not melt in, especially the clear coat which will leave you with a really rough and cloudy finish.  In that case, I would mask and mask well.  For many of the same reasons, I would be sure to have all the primer on, inside and outside and blocked before any color went on.  If you're doing a metallic, I would do the insides and jambs separately, then assemble the truck, fenders, hood, doors, back tape the seams and then spray the outside to get an even layout of the metallic particles as they go from panel to panel.

[NiftyFifty]

Doing both is ok if your very careful with dragging your hose, its the biggest issue and not being able to reach in and hold the outside while you spray. Depending on the paint and clear you need set time between coats so it might mean once you've done a complete you can start right back to the inside rather then risk your gun drying between coats

[Bobacuda]

I am planning on using a blue, single stage urethane, no metallic or pearls.  Trying to get close to the old Ecuador blue with an "off the shelf" color.

[NiftyFifty]

If the truck is completely bare with no glass then I wouldn't worry about any masking other then cover the engine and wheels if cab is on the frame. I had to learn the hard way, but soak your shop floor in water to make sure you have no dust, cover anything you cherish and don't want blue in the shop up, and for us guys with a bit hangin off the front.. Watch where your rubbing when painting the high spots

Edited April 17, 2014 by 4mula-dlx

[Brent B3B]

If the truck is completely bare with no glass then I wouldn't worry about any masking other then cover the engine and wheels if cab is on the frame. I had to learn the hard way, but soak your shop floor in water to make sure you have no dust, cover anything you cherish and don't want blue in the shop up, and for us guys with a bit hangin off the front.. Watch where your rubbing when painting the high spots

if the cab is off the frame is there a different procedure that is suggested? when you paint the underside do you mask the rest, let dry and then tackle the inside and outside or try and do it all at one time? (sorry to hi-jack Bobacuda )

[NiftyFifty]

if the cab is off the frame is there a different procedure that is suggested? when you paint the underside do you mask the rest, let dry and then tackle the inside and outside or try and do it all at one time? (sorry to hi-jack Bobacuda )

In that case I would do the bottom first, that way you can lay and move the cab as needed without hurting any other newly painted areas. Depending how you paint will depend on what you need to mask , if you lay the cab on the back then you will want to cover anything you might over spray, because its going to need 24hrs before you can set the bottom side down on anything without damage.

#1 tip...whatever you mask, don't wait until the paint is fully cured to remove, if you build an edge on the tape you can chip the paint,,, take it off while its still tacky and if you have any concern before pulling, cut the edge with a razor blade

[Bobacuda]

No problem Brent.  My truck is completely dismantled...cab over there, doors over there, glass over there, etc.  I've almost finished with the frame and drivetrain, so I am psyching myself up for the next phase.

Edited April 17, 2014 by Bobacuda

[Merle Coggins]

While my cab was off I laid it on it's side to clean and paint the bottom of the floor with POR15. I then set it upright again, but had it on blocks/carts so I could move it around. Once I had all of the body work done on the cab shell I painted the entire inside and firewall area. I also painted the underside of all hood panels, fenders, doors, etc. Then I assembled the truck and painted the outside all together. I should have done a better job of masking off the door jams though. My primer coats got through the gap around the doors and left primer on the jams that I had to deal with later.

 

Merle

Edited April 17, 2014 by Merle Coggins

[Dave72dt]

 My primer coats got through the gap around the doors and left primer on the jams that I had to deal with later.

 

Merle

That's one of the reasons I suggested getting all the priming done before any color goes on.  When doing the bottom, you can lay it on it's nose too, which I'm more inclined to recommend.  There's rigid seams on the front it can rest on and none on the back.  It's easy to touch up the prime on the seam edges and you'll invariably get a scratch or two in the back that you've just spent hours blocking.   While it's tipped over, either nose or back, you can also get to the firewall area behind the dash fairly well and the inside of the roof.  Overhead painting sucks.  If you must, turn the nozzle on the spray gun 90 degrees and change your arm movements to match

 

As you can see, there are any number of ways to tackle the problem and all will work. 

[Brent B3B]

No problem Brent.  My truck is completely dismantled...cab over there, doors over there, glass over there, etc.  I've almost finished with the frame and drivetrain, so I am psyching myself up for the next phase.

I think you are my new best friend   i am in the exact same position right down to the "over thinking".

working on the brakes (perfect timing after Hank has figured everything out for me)

 

That's one of the reasons I suggested getting all the priming done before any color goes on.  When doing the bottom, you can lay it on it's nose too, which I'm more inclined to recommend.  There's rigid seams on the front it can rest on and none on the back.  It's easy to touch up the prime on the seam edges and you'll invariably get a scratch or two in the back that you've just spent hours blocking.   While it's tipped over, either nose or back, you can also get to the firewall area behind the dash fairly well and the inside of the roof.  Overhead painting sucks.  If you must, turn the nozzle on the spray gun 90 degrees and change your arm movements to match

 

As you can see, there are any number of ways to tackle the problem and all will work. 

Thanks, that was my next question tipping it on the nose and shooting under the dash. (when are you or 4mula-dlx coming to Oregon  )

[Dave72dt]

 

 

 (when are you or 4mula-dlx coming to Oregon  )

I remember a forum member looking for someone to paint his truck a few years ago and said if he couldn't find anyone, I might be able to help him out.  I ended up with  it and a number of months later, he has the truck assembled.  Being a slow learner, I posted a couple of progress pics of it on another forum I visit and  along the way had someone ask when I wanted to do his '48 Ford.  It showed up just before the last of the truck parts were headed home.  15 months later, a lot of problem solving done, it's ready and the owner of it brought in another project that's now in final stages of completion and may have hooked up with another for someone else in 2015.  I'm staying home and working on my own stuff this summer, no plans for Oregon yet but I'll be happy to stop by if I ever get there.

[JBNeal]

has anyone painted the bottom of their cab with that brush-on bedliner as a sound insulator?

[NiftyFifty]

I think you are my new best friend   i am in the exact same position right down to the "over thinking".

working on the brakes (perfect timing after Hank has figured everything out for me)

 

Thanks, that was my next question tipping it on the nose and shooting under the dash. (when are you or 4mula-dlx coming to Oregon  )

I've been, and might be again this summer for work, but sorry... My customers that I'm taking might mind a full day painting someone's truck I really enjoyed the valley when I was there, the company I work for has its US base in Tangent

[HanksB3B]

Bob,

 

Do the inside first let it thorouighly dry and then mask and do the outside.

 

 

 

Good Luck,

 

Hank 

[ggdad1951]

I remember a forum member looking for someone to paint his truck a few years ago and said if he couldn't find anyone, I might be able to help him out.  I ended up with  it and a number of months later, he has the truck assembled.  Being a slow learner, I posted a couple of progress pics of it on another forum I visit and  along the way had someone ask when I wanted to do his '48 Ford.  It showed up just before the last of the truck parts were headed home.  15 months later, a lot of problem solving done, it's ready and the owner of it brought in another project that's now in final stages of completion and may have hooked up with another for someone else in 2015.  I'm staying home and working on my own stuff this summer, no plans for Oregon yet but I'll be happy to stop by if I ever get there.

I have no idea who you are talking about....