Don Coatney Posted January 31, 2014 Report Posted January 31, 2014 To answer a couple questions, I think it needs to be lower because I like that look. I'm not going to haul anything but lawn chairs in it so pay load isn't important. I don't want to sub frame it because I want to respect the truck, as it was built, and I kinda dig the old school vibe. It's new to me though as I've never done it this way before. Sub frame, frame swap, I understand, this is new. I know I have to be careful of lots of things to keep it safe. For me, the fun thing about this hobby is the smile it puts on my face. I may be wrong but I want what I want. I do greatly appreciate the input. I've learned a lot from the insights. I can respect a perfectly restored vehicle and a rat rod. (as long as it's road worthy and safe) I just like to see folks enjoying the cars. That's why it needs to be lowered, just my vision of making it mine. Thanks for all the input. Hope this helps. There is nothing wrong with doing it your way. I am not a fan of lowered vehicles but that is just my opinion. When you said the truck "needs" to be lowered I suspected there may be another reason besides personal preference. Quote
addes426 Posted January 31, 2014 Author Report Posted January 31, 2014 There is nothing wrong with doing it your way. I am not a fan of lowered vehicles but that is just my opinion. When you said the truck "needs" to be lowered I suspected there may be another reason besides personal preference. Were good. I've always liked low and wide on everything but my wife. 1 Quote
pflaming Posted January 31, 2014 Report Posted January 31, 2014 (edited) You must be a young one. When you get older you begin to appreciate good hips and legs! Yet maybe this suits you better? Taken at the entrance of last year's BBQ Nice high heels! Edited January 31, 2014 by pflaming Quote
The Oil Soup Posted January 31, 2014 Report Posted January 31, 2014 I followed Paul's lead and took the next to the lowest leaf out and dropped 2" then reversed the spring eyes and lost another 1", wanted a little more so installed a 3" dropped axle and it sits just right, next is disc brakes up front and a cherokee rear axle. Quote
1952B3b23 Posted January 31, 2014 Report Posted January 31, 2014 I followed Paul's lead and took the next to the lowest leaf out and dropped 2" then reversed the spring eyes and lost another 1", wanted a little more so installed a 3" dropped axle and it sits just right, next is disc brakes up front and a cherokee rear axle. How was installing the dropped axle? Did you have to mod the steering arms to lower everything for adequate clearance? -Chris Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted January 31, 2014 Report Posted January 31, 2014 There is nothing wrong with doing it your way. I am not a fan of lowered vehicles but that is just my opinion. When you said the truck "needs" to be lowered I suspected there may be another reason besides personal preference. Don; When I saw your initial posting it made me smile. Of course we all knew what the answer was........ We have some horrendous dips and speed bumps here......it always cracks me up to see a lowered vehicle try to negotiate these. There is one such spot about 100 feet from my shop and hardly a day goes by when someone doesn't grind their undercarriage on it. I get the low thing with sports cars.....but for the life of me I just can't imagine doing that to a truck. Jeff 1 Quote
addes426 Posted January 31, 2014 Author Report Posted January 31, 2014 I followed Paul's lead and took the next to the lowest leaf out and dropped 2" then reversed the spring eyes and lost another 1", wanted a little more so installed a 3" dropped axle and it sits just right, next is disc brakes up front and a cherokee rear axle. I've seen others mention the Cherokee rear axle on other sites. What's to be gained from that? This truck has a late 60s "B" 8 3/4 rear. It also had a 340 and 3.55 gears. The owner was running high 13s with it. He thought it had more in it but he was afraid of the drum brakes. He swapped out the 340 for the teen and 2.92s for the 3.55s to make it more street friendly. A great starting point for what I'm looking for. The Jeep rear interests me though. Quote
B1B Keven Posted January 31, 2014 Report Posted January 31, 2014 The reason for the Jeep rear end was 3:55 gears. Quote
The Oil Soup Posted February 1, 2014 Report Posted February 1, 2014 The steering arms are fine using dropped tie rod ends and modifying the drag link Quote
48Dodger Posted February 1, 2014 Report Posted February 1, 2014 (edited) I've seen others mention the Cherokee rear axle on other sites. What's to be gained from that? This truck has a late 60s "B" 8 3/4 rear. It also had a 340 and 3.55 gears. The owner was running high 13s with it. He thought it had more in it but he was afraid of the drum brakes. He swapped out the 340 for the teen and 2.92s for the 3.55s to make it more street friendly. A great starting point for what I'm looking for. The Jeep rear interests me though. 1972-74 B-body 8 3/4 axle track widths are close to the PH orginal track width, but are getting harder to find and expensive. Plus you are looking at drum brakes. Not that Discs in the front and drums in the back are a problem....a lot of modern trucks still do this. The rear brakes act as a "rudder" as the front breaks carry the bulk of the stoppage. The positives about the Cherokee axle are the availabilty and rear disc brakes (if you choose). The track width is good and the gearing as well. The orignal PH had 4:11's...like a good workhorse should, when doubling as a tractor or bulldozer. If you have the 8 3/4.....stay with it, its bullet proof. If you need it for another hotrod/muscle car...swap it out and go to just about any junkyard and pick up Cherokee axle. If you search this subject in the search bar, you'll find the demensions that have worked for others. 48D Edited February 1, 2014 by 48dodger Quote
addes426 Posted February 1, 2014 Author Report Posted February 1, 2014 Cool beans! I figured it had to do with disc brakes. Quote
1952B3b23 Posted February 1, 2014 Report Posted February 1, 2014 The steering arms are fine using dropped tie rod ends and modifying the drag link Where did you get the dropped tie rod ends? -Chris Quote
Young Ed Posted February 1, 2014 Report Posted February 1, 2014 1972-74 B-body 8 3/4 axle track widths are close to the PH orginal track width, but are getting harder to find and expensive. Plus you are looking at drum brakes. Not that Discs in the front and drums in the back are a problem....a lot of modern trucks still do this. The rear brakes act as a "rudder" as the front breaks carry the bulk of the stoppage. The positives about the Cherokee axle are the availabilty and rear disc brakes (if you choose). The track width is good and the gearing as well. The orignal PH had 4:11's...like a good workhorse should, when doubling as a tractor or bulldozer. If you have the 8 3/4.....stay with it, its bullet proof. If you need it for another hotrod/muscle car...swap it out and go to just about any junkyard and pick up Cherokee axle. If you search this subject in the search bar, you'll find the demensions that have worked for others. 48D Correct Dads 2013 chev pickup has front disk rear drum. Quote
addes426 Posted February 1, 2014 Author Report Posted February 1, 2014 Well, la'poop. The guy sold it yesterday. I was working 16s in the plant due to the weather and couldn't get free. I called this morning and it was gone. I guess I'm still looking. This has, however, been a lot of good info. The other truck I was looking at has a Nova sub frame. If I end up with something like that, respecting the truck is kinda moot. Might be better in the long run, always thought a Pilothouse with a C4 Vette suspension under it could bee a hoot. I can't hurt something that's already cut up. Quote
Don Coatney Posted February 1, 2014 Report Posted February 1, 2014 I would be cautious on buying a sub framed anything. There are a lot of sub standard sub frame jobs out there. Buyer beware. Quote
pflaming Posted February 1, 2014 Report Posted February 1, 2014 Don, that is VERY good advise. One bad weld and . . . not good. I always give way to modified vehicles on the highway. Quote
addes426 Posted February 1, 2014 Author Report Posted February 1, 2014 I would be cautious on buying a sub framed anything. There are a lot of sub standard sub frame jobs out there. Buyer beware. Agreed. I want to look at it, drive it, craw around under it, the whole 9 yrds. That's why I backed away from this one when the 54 popped up. Shoot, looking is the fun part. Quote
addes426 Posted February 1, 2014 Author Report Posted February 1, 2014 Here are a couple you might enjoy. To my taste, the blue one is too low, the yellow one is almost, yet the angle of the camera can make a difference. I like the wood on the blue truck, but not the rims nor the modern fenders. I prefer the round fenders up through '53. I agree, I like the front and rear fenders to match. 53 is an odd year for that. Dig the truck over all though. Quote
addes426 Posted February 1, 2014 Author Report Posted February 1, 2014 You must be a young one. When you get older you begin to appreciate good hips and legs! Yet maybe this suits you better? Taken at the entrance of last year's BBQ Nice high heels! I'm 53 and hadn't noticed she was even wearing shoes till you pointed it out. I've been keeping up with this at work as I pass by a computer. They filter so much stuff, I hadn't seen this pic or some of the other pics. Quote
The Oil Soup Posted February 2, 2014 Report Posted February 2, 2014 Where did you get the dropped tie rod ends? -Chris I believe Speedway Motors has them for $50 a pair. Gary Quote
1952B3b23 Posted February 2, 2014 Report Posted February 2, 2014 I believe Speedway Motors has them for $50 a pair. Gary Thanks again for the info. -Chris Quote
48Dodger Posted February 2, 2014 Report Posted February 2, 2014 Hey addes426, Since you're still on the hunt for a truck....here's a few threads that you might find interesting. 48D rubbin fenders volare front-end experiment frame question whats the best frame 1 Quote
addes426 Posted February 2, 2014 Author Report Posted February 2, 2014 Hey addes426, Since you're still on the hunt for a truck....here's a few threads that you might find interesting. 48D rubbin fenders volare front-end experiment frame question whats the best frame Great links. These should be stickies at the top. Quote
TrampSteer Posted February 28, 2014 Report Posted February 28, 2014 Just bought this. As the creator put it "The front has been lowered by removing a couple of leafs out of the springs, and the rear axle was "flipped" and the frame C notched to get it as low as possible and still having enough clearance for every day driving." I can take closer pictures if you need - soon as it gets here ... 1 Quote
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