New to Forum: 1949 Plymouth Business Coupe

[Don Coatney]

Suggest you pull the brake drum on the offending wheel. Suspect there may be a problem with the brake shoes.

[kented]

Suggest you pull the brake drum on the offending wheel. Suspect there may be a problem with the brake shoes.

I will do that next weekend when I'm back out at the car. Thanks!

[kented]

Ordered radiator today. Won't have much to post until late November. Car should be running in perfect time for the snow haha

[mrwrstory]

 

Any ideas on the no start?

Number of years ago had a similar occurrence when starting a friend's '40 Plymouth that had been rebuilt and rewired.  It fired and then died.  Finally found an unplugged vacuum port that let in way too much air for the engine to run.  Doah!     Started and ran fine after that.

[kented]

Out with the old and in with the new

 

 

 

New hoses and Clamps just no pictures. 

 

Only had time to put in the new radiator, the fit is fantastic! I went with Champion Radiator part # CC4950. Can't complain about the price either. 

 

Still having issues with no start, everything appears to be good except the gas. I forgot to put stabilizer in and its over a year old. I'm betting there's lots of moisture. The starter drops out and the car almost starts. I'm going to drain the tank, blow out the lines and have a couple fuel filters on hand. More updates in december  

[deathbound]

Looks good. Lately, a few members have installed a Champion radiator (not sure if it's the same part#) and had to cut the top fitting for the radiator hose to line up. Either you have a different one or Champion got with the program. Good luck with the starting issue.

[Don Coatney]

Looks good. Lately, a few members have installed a Champion radiator (not sure if it's the same part#) and had to cut the top fitting for the radiator hose to line up. Either you have a different one or Champion got with the program. Good luck with the starting issue.

CC4749, different part number.

 

[kented]

 

I'm looking for a carter D6H1 rebuild kit. I can find kits for the H2 but no H1. Anyone got a supplier? Thanks!

Edited November 26, 2014 by kented

[timkingsbury]

Hi Kented -  It is the exact same kit.  I assume your car is a Canadian Plymouth ?   25 1/2" block as opposed to the smaller USA  23 1/2" block.

 

Here is the carter ball and ball info

 

* 1949 (p17 – p18) 1950 (p19-p20), 1951-52 (p22 – p23), 1952 (p24) and 1954 (P25) model d6h1, d6h2  

                                                                                ( 1 9/16 throttle bore 1 ¼ venturi)

 

 

• there was a d6n1, d6n2  and d6r1 which are the same as the 1949-1954 carbs but have throttle restrictors

 

So the d6h1  kit will work just fine with you carb and not that it would matter to me bit it is correct for your car. Of course given your switching to GM conversion crap ignition, lol... it likely doesnt matter to you either.  I will attach a picture of my 1949 plymouth business coupe.  Rolled off the line in Windsor Ontario in April 1949.

 

If you get to the point you want to run, say an air conditioner and need dual pulleys, give us a call !  I will attach a few shots of them

 

Tim

 

 

 

[kented]

 I assume your car is a Canadian Plymouth ?   25 1/2" block as opposed to the smaller USA  23 1/2" block.

 

 

 

Tim

 

Thanks for your help! The car was brought up from California 2 years ago so it is a US car, california special i believe with no heat, seat belts or turn signals

[DonaldSmith]

Dual pulleys?  I would have killed for them when I added my power steering.  Anyone else wanting to add a power steering pump would want them. 

[ellum]

Hi Kent,

 

I like the spark plug wires. Where are they from?

 

Thx

Elvis

[timkingsbury]

Thanks for your help! The car was brought up from California 2 years ago so it is a US car, california special i believe with no heat, seat belts or turn signals

 

Hi Kent.. lol.. they never had seat belts or signals but should have heat. Now if you look at mine, I took out the cardboard heater tube as I have no intention to

drive it in the winter, and well  then I didnt have to route it around the triple carb manifold I am using. I will attach a couple of  pictures.You will see the opening in the firewall in these pictures, which is where the heater box was routed.

 

If you look close you would see I too changed to 12 volts, but alias I used a mopar alternator !

 

I use our AoK triple and George Asche  made the  cast iron headers for me out of a stock exhaust system.

 

I took a stock rad, top and bottom tanks and had  a 4 core rad created so  I likely have more rad than Don or yours and lol wasnt likely as expensive as those fancy looking alunimum beauties.

[kented]

Hi Kent,

I like the spark plug wires. Where are they from?

Thx

Elvis

Forget what brand but KMS CAR PARTS is where I purchased them from

[timkingsbury]

Dual pulleys?  I would have killed for them when I added my power steering.  Anyone else wanting to add a power steering pump would want them. 

 

Yep... carved them 6061T6 alunimum.   6061T6 alunimum is aircraft grade for fittings and gears and is high strength and high resistance to corrosion and you can really put a high polish on it.

 

Here is a close up picture of them on my 1949 plymouth. Crank and water pump version and of course routed to the high amp mopar alternator I put on,  courtesy of George's boys George III  and Rob who

did that one up for me.

 

Unfortunately because of what I made them out of and the amount of machining they wouldnt be cheap.

 We would have to have  $125. for the crankshaft pulley and $135 for the water pump pulley or $250 for a pair + shipping and if I really told you what we would be making on them, you would laugh your face off and by that I mean, not  much in the way of profit there.

[kented]

Hi Kent.. lol.. they never had seat belts or signals but should have heat. Now if you look at mine, I took out the cardboard heater tube as I have no intention to

drive it in the winter, and well then I didnt have to route it around the triple carb manifold I am using. I will attach a couple of pictures.You will see the opening in the firewall in these pictures, which is where the heater box was routed.

If you look close you would see I too changed to 12 volts, but alias I used a mopar alternator !

I use our AoK triple and George Asche made the cast iron headers for me out of a stock exhaust system.

I took a stock rad, top and bottom tanks and had a 4 core rad created so I likely have more rad than Don or yours and lol wasnt likely as expensive as those fancy looking alunimum beauties.

I thought some came with signals. The car never had a heater as the metal knockout is still in place and untouched.

Mine is a made to look like Mopar alternator. But for a car from the late 60s/70s.

4 core sounds exessive haha! There not terribly priced at around $200usd

[timkingsbury]

I thought some came with signals. The car never had a heater as the metal knockout is still in place and untouched.

Mine is a made to look like Mopar alternator. But for a car from the late 60s/70s.

4 core sounds exessive haha! There not terribly priced at around $200usd

signals were optional. Heater was standard, but maybe you could buy them with a delete.  I know my aunt bought the one I have with absolutely no options. It was a special order absolute base model.. 

 

On the rad -  oh $200 if it works is definately not bad, and way less than what I have seen.  4 core.. excessive.. nah.. not when you build a performance engine.  But then it was definately more than your $200 alunimum one !

[kented]

Whats the simplest way to empty the tank? remove the straps and drop it or lift the car up and siphon the gas out. I noticed there's a plug on the tank but unsure where to get a something that fits the enlarged looking torx plug. Thanks!

[Plymouthy Adams]

these plugs were out there long before torx...try simple allen wrench if hex...personally due to internal low spot and possible weakened internal metal due to rust/corrosion....I do not advise wrenching much on this drain plug...tread carefully is my advice...if below half a tank...simply remove the filler hose at the input to the tank and insert a hose to siphon the remaining fuel..

[Niel Hoback]

   Tim's right, I put a wrench on mine and ripped it right off.  I wound up soldering a patch over a big triangular hole. Siphoning goes pretty fast with a 3/8 hose down the filler pipe.  You can dump the rest out.

[kented]

Thanks! Working on it this Sunday. Fingers crossed

[DJ194950]

I've done two  1950 Ply. gas drain plugs and both came out with fairly mild persuasion with a breaker bar using the 1/2" drive. Mine were 8 point female plugs but the 4 point 1/2" drive end fit well.

 

Best of luck,

 

DJ

[JerseyHarold]

I've siphoned gas from Plymouth tanks by removing the gas tank sending unit and sticking the siphon hose in there.  You'd need to disconnect the sender wire(s) anyway to drop the tank.  You can also use a flashlight to look into the tank at the sender hole to get an idea of what the inside looks like.

[fstfish66]

Yep... carved them 6061T6 alunimum.   6061T6 alunimum is aircraft grade for fittings and gears and is high strength and high resistance to corrosion and you can really put a high polish on it.

 

Here is a close up picture of them on my 1949 plymouth. Crank and water pump version and of course routed to the high amp mopar alternator I put on,  courtesy of George's boys George III  and Rob who

did that one up for me.

 

Unfortunately because of what I made them out of and the amount of machining they wouldnt be cheap.

 We would have to have  $125. for the crankshaft pulley and $135 for the water pump pulley or $250 for a pair + shipping and if I really told you what we would be making on them, you would laugh your face off and by that I mean, not  much in the way of profit there.

nice work,well worth the price

[timkingsbury]

nice work,well worth the price

Thanks.. Personally I think there pretty pricey,  but we didnt want to do them in a lesser grade alunimum.  We have seen what happens with vbelt pulley out of cheaper alunimum.  Its one of the reasons belting changed over the years.  I wanted to keep vbelts to be sort of period correct but was doing them for our own vehicles so I litterally got the best alunimum I could lay my hands on. So in the end, their expensive and there is definately not a lot of margin in there, but if someone wants a set, we did make a few extra sets.