RodFru2u Posted December 12, 2013 Report Posted December 12, 2013 LoL Thanks for the period correct sewing machine advice. I picked up a 70's Bernina sewing machine a few years back, I sort of figured out how to sew. I've made a few Tool Wraps for my British Car guys last year and the machine came thru like a champ sewing up to 6 layers of fabric. I figure the Naugahyde I find downtown should be breeze to poke a few holes through. Thanks again for the info, Now I just have to find the right material. Quote
JBNeal Posted December 12, 2013 Report Posted December 12, 2013 the water pump bypass elbow...some folks have boxes of'm lying around...they pop up for sale from time to time. But the new water pumps have a port for a heater hose fitting, so ya can keep that original elbow & thermostat housing without taking a chance on a used elbow that might blow apart on ya Quote
B1B Keven Posted December 12, 2013 Report Posted December 12, 2013 Water pump part: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1938-DODGE-ENGINE-WATER-PUMP-HOSE-CONNECTOR-PLYMOUTH-CHRYSLER-TRUCK-HEATER-1940-/121188615355?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c376784bb&vxp=mtr Quote
Young Ed Posted December 13, 2013 Report Posted December 13, 2013 I think I'd buy one of these before I spent $20 on that. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Water-Pump-New/_/R-TFW42554_0258160657 Quote
bondvagabond Posted December 14, 2013 Author Report Posted December 14, 2013 Ooh, decisions decisions. Thanks for those guys. My cousin has a pipe thread tap so my other option is to drill out the drain hole and tap for a pipe fitting. Got the brake lines replaced. Noe just need to put wheels back on then can test radiator with water and fill with coolant and take her for her first drive in over a decade. Quote
B1B Keven Posted December 14, 2013 Report Posted December 14, 2013 I think I'd buy one of these before I spent $20 on that. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Water-Pump-New/_/R-TFW42554_0258160657 He still wouldn't have the part he needs. Quote
Young Ed Posted December 15, 2013 Report Posted December 15, 2013 He still wouldn't have the part he needs. Yes he would. That new water pump is a fits all and the later flatheads have an extra port for the heater. A simple screw in fitting to put the hose on and he'd be set. Quote
B1B Keven Posted December 15, 2013 Report Posted December 15, 2013 Yes he would. That new water pump is a fits all and the later flatheads have an extra port for the heater. A simple screw in fitting to put the hose on and he'd be set Must be missing something. I still don't see the fitting he's talking about? Quote
Young Ed Posted December 15, 2013 Report Posted December 15, 2013 Must be missing something. I still don't see the fitting he's talking about? T Must be missing something. I still don't see the fitting he's talking about? Rather than putting it on top like stock he could easily put it in the later model location. In the picture it would be the small port above the radiator hose connection. Quote
JBNeal Posted December 15, 2013 Report Posted December 15, 2013 the optional heater hose port is pointed out in the attached NAPA photo...the top port can be used with the original bypass elbow, or the bypass elbow port can be plugged because the passage is tapped with pipe threads similar to the heater hose port. 1 Quote
Young Ed Posted December 15, 2013 Report Posted December 15, 2013 NAPAh20FRT.jpg the optional heater hose port is pointed out in the attached NAPA photo...the top port can be used with the original bypass elbow, or the bypass elbow port can be plugged because the passage is tapped with pipe threads similar to the heater hose port. Thanks I tried to get the napa picture to post and couldnt get it. So the original posted could use his original bypass setup without the heater provision and then hook the heater up directly to the water pump in that additional port. Quote
bondvagabond Posted December 18, 2013 Author Report Posted December 18, 2013 Got brake lines swapped, then had to wait for above freezing temps to check radiator for leaks with water before filling with radiator fluid. No leaks so good to go. Got a bag of mmo set up to trickle down the e brake cable to try to free it up. Gonna make up a drive shaft for my cuz friday, while he whips up a couple of hand cranks for me. Got the spare tire aired uo to replace a dud one, just need to sswap those and can take er for a victory lapnaround the block. Pretty excited. 1 Quote
Fernando Mendes Posted December 18, 2013 Report Posted December 18, 2013 I would like to know if this is the only way to put the oil pressure gauge(hose) in this bearing oil passage(number 4)? What is there on the frame that needs grounding. No lights or other elecrtrical stuff is connected directly to the frame that I can think of. The body on the other hand has a lot of electrical stuff connected to it. I have installed an engine to body ground strap on my car. But I see no need to run a ground strip to the frame. Quote
Don Coatney Posted December 18, 2013 Report Posted December 18, 2013 I would like to know if this is the only way to put the oil pressure gauge(hose) in this bearing oil passage(number 4)? What I did is not the only way. You can do it however you want. I did it this way so I could mount a pressure gauge at the "T". Quote
bondvagabond Posted December 19, 2013 Author Report Posted December 19, 2013 Will this pto box fit my tranny? Its a 4 on thefloor. http://klamath.en.craigslist.org/pts/4188643983.html Quote
bondvagabond Posted December 20, 2013 Author Report Posted December 20, 2013 What are the torque specs for front spindle nuts? Rears I found 142-150, but could not find front. Quote
B1B Keven Posted December 20, 2013 Report Posted December 20, 2013 Run the nut up snug, then back off 1/4 turn. Quote
Don Coatney Posted December 20, 2013 Report Posted December 20, 2013 On the fronts you are setting the tapered bearing clearance. On the rears you are locking the hub to the tapered shaft. Do as Kevin said on the fronts and insure once done that the wheel spins freely. Quote
bondvagabond Posted December 22, 2013 Author Report Posted December 22, 2013 Thanks guys. Got hub nuts done, freed up e brake cable, went to go take it for maiden voyage, no start. Drat I say and tear into it. Has spark, fuel pump pumps on bench, lines clean, hmmmm. Bong bong bong. Someone had stolen my gas. Kinda releived it was $15 in gas instead of a bum fuel pump. Will throw some in tommorow and fire her up. Quote
bondvagabond Posted February 21, 2014 Author Report Posted February 21, 2014 Truck has been on hold for a while, getting a ton of overtime at work. After fuel theft I still get no start after adding fuel. Disconnect fuel outflow line at fuel pump and crank over, no fuel comes out of fuel pump. Blow air from pump inflow back to tank, get nice bubbles. Put vaccum pump on pump out line and pull fuel through pump fine. Only two hypothesis I can think of. 1. When diagnosing the no start from fuel theft I somehow reinstalled pump so that pump arm not hitting cam correctly. 2. My fuel pump just randomly died on me, in some way I cannot see, rubber parts looked good to me. What do yall think? Anyone have a part number to a cheap 6v electric pump I could buy as a cheaper diagnostic alternative to a new mech fuel pump? I hate to buy another since mine looks fine. I had toyed with getting an electric ine anyway to improve hand crank starting. Quote
Don Coatney Posted February 21, 2014 Report Posted February 21, 2014 Check the condition of your fuel line from the tank to the pump. If there is even a tiny leak the pump will suck air and not work. Quote
pflaming Posted February 21, 2014 Report Posted February 21, 2014 (edited) I have a new Spectra Premium here on my desk. It came last wednesday. Part # SP1124 - six volts. No more mechanical pumps for me. Was waiting for this when the infamous fire occurred. Jacksons Oldtime Parts, 1 800 333 8059, $53.62 at my door. Recommended by another forum member. I have two mechanical pumps if any one needs one. Good luck. Edited February 21, 2014 by pflaming 1 Quote
Young Ed Posted February 21, 2014 Report Posted February 21, 2014 I have seen the mechanical pumps have issues pulling fuel back through when they have been emptied on just cranking over. Try putting a little fuel in the carb to get it to run for even 30 seconds and see if it will pull fuel then. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted February 21, 2014 Report Posted February 21, 2014 What do yall think? Anyone have a part number to a cheap 6v electric pump I could buy as a cheaper diagnostic alternative to a new mech fuel pump? I hate to buy another since mine looks fine. I had toyed with getting an electric ine anyway to improve hand crank starting. I got my 6 volt electric pump from MAC's http://macsautoparts.com/early-ford-pickup-fuel-pump-electric-6-volt-4-6-5-lbs-pressure-ford-efp-9350-6/camid/FP1/cp/JS0R3CHL1073531E/ I mounted it in the fuel line just ahead of the tank. I wired it to a toggle switch so I can switch it on to help prime the mechanical pump/carburetor. When it's switched off everything runs normal. Merle Quote
Don Coatney Posted February 21, 2014 Report Posted February 21, 2014 I got my 6 volt electric pump from MAC's http://macsautoparts.com/early-ford-pickup-fuel-pump-electric-6-volt-4-6-5-lbs-pressure-ford-efp-9350-6/camid/FP1/cp/JS0R3CHL1073531E/ I mounted it in the fuel line just ahead of the tank. I wired it to a toggle switch so I can switch it on to help prime the mechanical pump/carburetor. When it's switched off everything runs normal. Merle Did you use a momentary contact toggle switch? Quote
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