1955 Plymouth Plaza wagon project

[ChrisRice]

Greg G, I noticed from Google that it's still in business. Since it's only changed hands once I wonder what the possibility that they could/would give me any information regarding the first owners or copies of any surviving documentation. Anyone had any luck doing that?

[greg g]

Probably not much they purged their paper files about 10 to 15 years ago.

[ChrisRice]

Well that a shame. I was a little hopeful for better news.

[ChrisRice]

Does anyone know if an airtex 73201 fuel pump is supposed to be able to fit this car? It bolts on but not enough clearence for the bowl. I'm not sure if a bad motor mount has it hanging too low or not (bad storms have kept me from looking). The one that came off had a metal plate on it and not a bowl, but the original is supposed to have a bowl. Anyone with knowledge or a parts book?

[B-Watson]

It's been awhile since the question was asked, but the production figures for 1955 Plymouth Suburban wagons  -

 

P26-1 : Plaza 6  (USA & Canada) -

2 door Suburban (USA & Canada) - 23,319

4 door Suburban (USA) - 10,594

 

P26-2 : Belvedere 6  (USA)  /  Savoy 6 (Canada) -

4dr Suburban (USA & Canada) - 6,197

 

P26-3 : Savoy 6 (USA) -

No Suburban models

 

P26-4 : Belvdere 6 (Canada) -

4dr Suburban - 21

 

P27-1 : Plaza V8 -

2dr Suburban (USA) - 8,469

4dr Suburban (USA) - 4,828

 

P27-2 : Belvedere V8 -

4dr Suburban (USA & Canada) - 12,291

 

P27-3 : Savoy V8 (USA) -

No Suburban models

[ChrisRice]

Thank you

[Plymouthy Adams]

I find it very odd that in 54 they introduced the Plaza, Savoy Belvedere as Plaza -1, Savoy -2 and Belvedere as -3 and yet in 55 they have the numbering system off with Savoy the -3 and the Belvedere -2 but in 56 and 57 they are back numbered as the 54 and in 58 they drop the numbers and use the letter system with Plaza being L (low) Savoy M (medium) and Belvedere H (high)

 

The 55 year saw the introduction of the V8 and in my book here at the house designates them as 6 being a P26 and the 8 being a P27 they did not make a distinction in this book for the -1 -2 or -3 like the prior 54 year..reckon the new V8 cause that much of a stir???

Edited May 18, 2014 by Plymouthy Adams

[ChrisRice]

That is odd. Maybe they just numbered at their hearts desire and not with any rhyme or reason.

[Plymouthy Adams]

the reasoning as put out there in the past was the series were based on the hotels of the era and their rating system in "swank"  Plaza then the Savoy and top line the Belvedere..

[pflaming]

based on the hotels of the era. . ." following that 'reasoning' had they gone by cities the series may have gone by Atlanta, Little Rock, New Orleans.    

[ChrisRice]

Paul, in those cities which is top of the line, and which is bottem of the line???

[B-Watson]

I find it very odd that in 54 they introduced the Plaza, Savoy Belvedere as Plaza -1, Savoy -2 and Belvedere as -3 and yet in 55 they have the numbering system off with Savoy the -3 and the Belvedere -2 but in 56 and 57 they are back numbered as the 54 and in 58 they drop the numbers and use the letter system with Plaza being L (low) Savoy M (medium) and Belvedere H (high)

 

The 55 year saw the introduction of the V8 and in my book here at the house designates them as 6 being a P26 and the 8 being a P27 they did not make a distinction in this book for the -1 -2 or -3 like the prior 54 year..reckon the new V8 cause that much of a stir???

 

Whoever wrote the book probably did not believe, or understand, the warped numbering system of 1955. 

 

Years ago I read Chrysler was considering dropping a few series, such as the Windsor and the Savoy.  I suspect the marketing people blew the whistle on that one as Chrysler Corp. would no longer be competitive against Ford and GM.  The Savoy was put back in the line-up and assigned the -3 series as -1 and -2 were being used. 

 

When the 1955 models went on sale, the only model dropped was the LWB sedan, due to New York City changing their taxi regulations and approving the use of normal size cars.  The initial listing of Mopar serial numbers in the fall of 1954 had a listing for the LWB DeSoto taxi as well as the Imperial Crown.  Only the Crown made it to production with no LWB DeSoto or Chrysler models.  . 

 

The Canadian Plymouth models, when introduced, were Plaza 6, Savoy 6 and Belvedere V8.   The Canadian Savoy and Belvedere offered the same models but different engines.  (The Belvedere V8 convertible was imported)  Thus the Canadian Savoy used the US Belvedere model number, P26-2.   Later in the year Chrysler of Canada introduced the Belvedere 6 and numbered it P26-4 as there was no US equivalent available.  

 

The Canadian Dodge  was numbered - D54-1 (Crusader 6), D54-2 (Regent 6) and Mayfair V8 (D59) with the D54-4 (Mayfair 6) added later.   The D55 and D56 model numbers were used on the 120" wheelbase models, but D57 or D58 were skipped.  

 

In the U.S. the D54-1 was the export Kingsway 6 and the D54-2 the export Kingsway Custom, the equivalent of the US Plaza and Belvedere - with no Kingsway Deluxe.  The V8 models were similar - D59-1 for Kingsway and D59-2 for Kingsway Custom.  I suspect the decision to offer a V8 Kingsway was done after the model numbers were assigned to the 120" wheelbase Dodges, and thus landed up being D59.  And the Canadian Dodge was based on the Kingsway, and its model numbers.  By the way, Chrysler of Canada did not build cars for export - thus no Canadian-built 1955 Dodge Kingsway or DeSoto Diplomat models.

 

For 1956 all was back to normal, -1, -2, and -3 from low to high with all Kingsway / Canadian Dodges with model numbers lower than the Coronet / Royal / Custom Royal.  And the Canadian Plymouth and Plymouth-based Dodge offered the six in the -1 and -2 series and the V8 in -1, -2, and -3 series, a situation that would hold through the 1959 models..

[pflaming]

in those cities which is top of the line, and which is bottom of the line???  Ask Plymouthy,  I'm from the left coast.   

[ChrisRice]

in those cities which is top of the line, and which is bottom of the line???  Ask Plymouthy,  I'm from the left coast.   

. I'm from the south. I wasn't sure weather or not to be,offended.

[ChrisRice]

The solved the fuel pump problem. I raised the front of the motor and was able to get the clearance needed for it. I hope it hasn't caused any binding anywhere else. I have a car show on Saturday I'm supposed to show the car in. I may have set too tight of a deadline for myself. Front brakes, lines, shoes, and turned drums have been installed. One rear drum still hasn't broken loose. One rear drum has been turned, however the the wheel cylinder doesn't fit right, and neither does the pads. They cause the drum to not fit once installed. Cylinders came from rock auto, and shoes from oldmoparts. Not sure what the problem is there.

[RobertKB]

There were a lot of different pins to push the shoes based on whatever piston was inside the cylinder. You may have a mismatched set if you are using the old pins with different style cylinder pistons which can result in the shoes being too far out for an adjustment. This has been mentioned several times on the forum. Check to see if the new cylinders are the same inside as the old. If not you may have to try to find some different pins. Good luck. I hope you can get it ready for the show.

Edited May 21, 2014 by RobertKB

[Plymouthy Adams]

in those cities which is top of the line, and which is bottom of the line???  Ask Plymouthy,  I'm from the left coast.   

 

this very question was answered in the earlier write up...

[ChrisRice]

There were a lot of different pins to push the shoes based on whatever piston was inside the cylinder. You may have a mismatched set if you are using the old pins with different style cylinder pistons which can result in the shoes being too far out for an adjustment. This has been mentioned several times on the forum. Check to see if the new cylinders are the same inside as the old. If not you may have to try to find some different pins. Good luck. I hope you can get it ready for the show.

I'll have to read up on other posts for details on that, but even if I take the cylinder off, the shoes still don't seem to push in far enough for clearance with the drum.

[ChrisRice]

Ok, new fuel pump installed and pumping like crazy. In fact, it seems to pump so much that the carb is flooding. I'm not sure why the float isn't doing it's job there... Unfortunately not enough time before Saturday to try to order a rebuild kit and fix this. Anyone had this problem and have quick short term fix for this?

[Plymouthy Adams]

first, what is the pressure from the pump...without this bit of info you are only guessing at what to do next...your manual also states what your pressures should be...

[ChrisRice]

I'm not sure Plymothy. I did a little research and looked around and found that the needle was missing between the seat and the float. I bought a rebuild kit and put the needle in and it solved the problem. It's much better now.

Went to install the new brake lines and had problems at the front. The steel is rusted into the master cylinder and into the block at the front. I can't win some days, and other days it gets better.

[Plymouthy Adams]

^{sounds like a lot of PO problems....confirming needle/seat is Fuel 101}

[DJ194950]

Sorry but- time to replace the brake lines and probably the "t" you mentioned. If you agree just cut them and remove all the parts and replace them all if you want way less problems in the long run. Really an education but not that hard really.!

 

Best of luck,

 

DJ

[ChrisRice]

Plymouth, you are right. Have I mentioned that prior to buying this car I had zero mechanical expireience.

Dj, I do agree. I was replacing the lines, but didn't realize the T would have to go too. I thought of it as fairly solid and without a failure point. I'm going to get new T and master cylinder instead of just rebuilding it as the line is stuck there too. It will give me a 100% new brake system (minus the drums which I had turned).

[DJ194950]

Chris,

there are ways to save some parts but without the tools/experience to do this I suggest replacement based on what you said you experience was.. I prefer to save as much as possible due to I do have the tools, expenience, and shortage of $,).(mostly). The brake lines however are a diff. story. No Way.

Just cut the brake line from the master and open up remove the parts and inspect the bore of the cyl.. If not too bad you can try a rebuild.

The are many posts on this forum about that topic on the search tool.

 

Best of luck,

 

DJ

Edited May 24, 2014 by DJ194950