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Rear Spring Shackles


Go to solution Solved by Plymouthy Adams,

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Posted (edited)

Doing the Explorer rear end swap on my 50 Business Coupe, (yes, some guys will do anything to avoid messing with those old Mopar brakes). Any suggestions on how to get to those top bolts on the rear spring shackles? Doesn't look like there is much room to work a wrench up inside were the frame member wraps around the outside of the shackle. Thought about torching a small hole through it to get a ratchet on it. Also thought about just cutting the shackle apart to get them off but I see replacements are not inexpensive.

Edited by 50 coupe
Posted

are you referring to the manner in which the bumper bracket often prevent access to the top nut if the bumper bracket is not removed from the car?

I believe so. I was thinking I would have to remove the bumper and supporting brackets to get to it. However, I thought that seemed like a lot to go through to get to the upper shackle bolt nuts. There must be an easier way. Please, tell me there is. :(

Posted

you got to break the egg to make the omelet

Reckon so then. It's not like this car will be showing up on a Concourse when I'm done with it. Guess I will be making my own replacement shackles if I have to cut these out. I saw one vendor wanted over $100.00 for a set though most others were asking well north of $50.00. If I were doing a full resto, then it would make sense but that isn't the case.

  • Solution
Posted

I can think of no reason you will need to cut these...they unbolt and separate so easily...Advance Auto also has new bushings on an overnight if not in stock...even at last resort, they can easily be made if needed...as you can see by Coatney's picture of his..the center spacer was needed as the originals are shoulder bolts...they are designed to lock at X-dimension...therefore not over compressing the bushings...not complicate..no need to over thingk this at all...drop the bumper bracket and let the big dog eat...

Posted (edited)

I can think of no reason you will need to cut these...they unbolt and separate so easily...Advance Auto also has new bushings on an overnight if not in stock...even at last resort, they can easily be made if needed...as you can see by Coatney's picture of his..the center spacer was needed as the originals are shoulder bolts...they are designed to lock at X-dimension...therefore not over compressing the bushings...not complicate..no need to over thingk this at all...drop the bumper bracket and let the big dog eat...

OK, well I think you answered my question then. I do need to drop the bumper bracket then. I wasn't sure exactly what was involved. Thanks Plymouthy!

Edited by 50 coupe
Posted

I think it is only 4 or maybe 6 bolts to remove the bumper and brackets as an assembly.  Might need an extra hand cuz its a bit heavy but it you drop it on a couple of jack stands it is a manageable one person deal. 

Posted

I think it is only 4 or maybe 6 bolts to remove the bumper and brackets as an assembly.  Might need an extra hand cuz its a bit heavy but it you drop it on a couple of jack stands it is a manageable one person deal. 

Thanks Greg, that's good to know. Time for soome PB Blaster and the 1/2 impact.

Posted

You may be able to undo one bolt on each side of the bumper and pivot it down to gain access to the shackle bolts.   A lot easier than removing the whole thing.

Thanks for the tip Jersey.

Posted

actually to my amazement, every one of the bumper bolts on these old cars have come off with little effort....much to my surprise looking at their very appearance..something to be said for the very physical size I guess...

I have been lucky for the most part that rusty eroded parts have come off relatively easy, all of course accept for the friggin rear brake drums, but that is 'nother story......

Posted

I did not care for the original Mopar "C" style of rear shackles on my '39 Plym, and do to the fact that I upgraded the rear springs to a set of Posie's made for the Plym. We fabricated a new set of shackles that would allow the use of modern type of spring/shackle bushings..

I'd attach a pix of the rear shackles on my Plym, however, the new format of this forum will not allow me to attach photo's... Bill

P.S.

I wonder why I can't attach photos to this forum, or the POC forum, I have no problems attaching photos to the Ford barn, EFV8 forum, Vintage Oldsmobile, or several other old car forums that I contribute to... Bill

Posted

Your photo files are probably too big. Try resizing the images (I use Paint to resize images) or upload them to photobucket or another picture hosting site.

Posted (edited)

I did not care for the original Mopar "C" style of rear shackles on my '39 Plym,...........

I may end up making my own shackles. I think I boogered up the threads on one of the originals already. After I took the nut off of the lower rear shackle bolt I started banging away thinking it would slide out. That's when I discovered they are a one piece design. I;ll try to see if I can fix the threads but don't have high hopes.

If you can get those pictures of your shackles loaded up that would be great to see.

Thanks

Edited by 50 coupe
Posted

I may end up making my own shackles. I think I boogered up the threads on one of the originals already. After I took the nut off of the lower rear shackle bolt I started banging away thinking it would slide out. That's when I discovered they are a one piece design. I;ll try to see if I can fix the threads but don't have high hopes.

If you can get those pictures of your shackles loaded up that would be great to see.

Thanks

If you PM me I can send you copies of the rear shackles we made for my car... In order to clear the frame the new shackles have to be made in a C shape, with the bolt holes near the open end of the C.... Bill

  • Like 1
Posted

50 Coup,

Roberts, or Bernbaum sells them for reasonable prices.

If you don't have a 1/2" Impact Wrench, expect a wrestling match with those old Nuts and Bolts. 

I believe they are 7/8" and 3/4" . 

Good Luck!

  • Like 1
Posted

50 Coup,

Roberts, or Bernbaum sells them for reasonable prices.

If you don't have a 1/2" Impact Wrench, expect a wrestling match with those old Nuts and Bolts. 

I believe they are 7/8" and 3/4" . 

Good Luck!

Oh yeah, found that out! I had to use a combo of PB Blaster, wire brush and steel wool to get the rust and stuff off the bolts before my earth quaken 1/2 impact could move the nuts all the way off the end of the bolts. Got the bumper and bumber bracket pulled and the nuts removed from the shackles. I ran out of time so I couldn't drop the rear end but will get it out this weekend and start to prep the Explorer 8.8 for install.

Posted

actually the shackles nuts are 9/16 and the threaded section is 3/8-24 and are very reasonable to remove..

Yup, and they came off a heck of a lot easier than it was to just get to them!!!!!

Posted

Running a wire brush over the exposed threads and even a die or thread chasing nut will help greatly.

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