That Annoying Shaky Speedometer

[41/53dodges]

Does anybody ever have a "shaky" speedometer needle? not like bouncing everywhere but more of just a few miles in either direction, and only when I'm on the throttle! if it's coasting or on decel, it sits nice and steady like it was supposed to. What the heck is this?

Btw, I just recently lubed the cable too

Thanks,

Josh

[HanksB3B]

Actually it's a good sign (it's still working) and it's being nice enough to tell you it's about to break  .  There's a oil wick on the back of the unit that needs a few drops of 3-in-one oil and it wouldn't be a bad idea to remove the speedometer cable, grease the inner core, and re-install it.  

 

Hank 

Edited July 24, 2013 by HanksB3B

[MBF]

I don't know if this is overkill or not, but I had a similar problem on one of mine.  I did what Hank said and removed the head to oil the wick.  I then pulled the entire cable out of the truck, removed the inner cable and flushed the housing.  I then lubed the cable as I inserted it back into the housing with Vaseline (I've used graphite on other ones).  That was several years ago and it is still working fine.  If you pull the inner cable, handle it carefully as there may be broken strands on it that like to poke nasty holes in your skin.  If that's the case, you'll need to replace it.  I believe you can still get a cable from NAPA  Mike

[HanksB3B]

Actually, any good speedometer shop has the inner cable in bulk rolls and uses a special press that forms square ends. It should cost around $10 to replace the inner cable and after sixty years it's not a bad idea as MB suggested to flush the housing with gasoline, clean it up real good and if there is inner cable wear install a new well-greased inner cable.

 

Hank 

[Don Coatney]

I got a new cable and new housing from these folks. They custom cut everything to the length I gave them. I did this several years ago and dont recall the cost but it was reasonable.

 

[JBNeal]

my 2 cents:  lubricate the cable with weedeater drive shaft lubricant...pull the cable out of the housing, clean it & the housing of the old lubricant, then take the tube of new lubricant with the nozzle in housing and feed the cable into the housing while applying lubricant, twisting & running the cable in & out of the housing every few inches to coat the cable.  Then chuck the cable end in a drill and spin that cable for a little bit to slick up the housing a little more
 
btw weedeater drive shaft lubricant is very similar to water pump lubricant

Edited July 25, 2013 by JBNeal

[Don Coatney]

I still get surprises and I guess I should be over it by now but I am not. Seems today that there is a product SPECIALLY FORMULATED FOR everything. I have never heard of weedeater drive shaft lubricant. What is special about it? What is special about lawnmower oil that it is sold marked specially formulated?

 

In my youth standard motor oil worked in all 4 stroke engines. Two stroke oil worked in all two stroke engines. And used motor oil and used ATF worked well as chainsaw bar oil, hedge trimmer lubrication, squirt oil cans, etc.General purpose grease worked in wheel bearings, grease guns, and most anything where grease was required.

 

There are a few special lubricants such as water pump lubricant, boat trailer bearings, and a few more.

 

But when I see SPECIALLY FORMULATED FOR on a can all I see is extra $$$$$$$.

[HanksB3B]

I once saw a single shrink wrapped potato with an "organic" sticker on it for $1.99.

 

Hank 

[Jeff Balazs]

Yes.....but there are some products out there that out perform others in specific applications.

 

As an example quite a lot of antique motorcycles have gearboxes that used leather or other somewhat inadequate seals to try and keep oil or grease inside.

For many years the fix was to mix oil and grease together ....and hope that it helped. When faced with this I used a semi- fluid grease from Morris Lubricants which solves this issue quite well. A Brit bike that doesn't leak oil is a truly rare thing.

 

There has been a discussion of late regarding transmission countershaft leaks.......and I can't help thinking a switch to a semi- fluid grease might be a real good solution.

 

And then of course there is the undeniable anti-seize properties of Castor based oils. This is still being used as a component in some of the latest synthetic lubrication products. I know that there is quite a bit of "snake oil" out there.......but I believe every so often somebody come up with a product that really works.

I managed to get 565,000 miles out of the lower end of my old GMC Jimmy. When the fellow that bought it off me tore into it the cylinder walls and crank looked pretty darn good. Chalk that up to frequent oil changes and a bottle of STP every change after about the first 100,000 miles. That stuff helps if used correctly.

 

This is just my take on this of course.

Jeff

[Alshere59]

Jeff That sounds like it may work for numerous steering boxes as well. A lot like the "corn head grease" that has been discussed. Like this thread. http://p15-d24.com/topic/28571-steering-box-debate/?hl=%2Bcorn+%2Bhead+%2Bgrease

[Jeff Balazs]

Jeff That sounds like it may work for numerous steering boxes as well. A lot like the "corn head grease" that has been discussed. Like this thread. http://p15-d24.com/topic/28571-steering-box-debate/?hl=%2Bcorn+%2Bhead+%2Bgrease

Yes I imagine it may be a similar range in viscosity. All I know is that old Burman gearbox couldn't be any sweeter than after I switched over to this grease. No leaking.....shifts as smooth as silk......and it is much quieter too. Real good for an old gearbox that started it's life on a WW2 British Army Matchless or Ariel dispatch rider's bike. When I tore it down believe me it looked like it had been through the war!

 

I know sometimes we get taken in by the claims made for some products. And this sort of advertising hype gets me frosted.

But I also know from experience that some products really do a superior job at what they were made to do. Here is another product I don't hesitate to recommend to folks. Mercury Marine Corrosion Guard. This stuff is truly amazing. If I lived in an environment that used salt on it's roads you can bet I would be using this stuff to protect all my hard work. It is an self healing aerosol corrosion inhibitor that was developed to coat the power head and all the external workings of their outboard motors. It works...works ....works.

 

Jeff

[ggdad1951]

I'm gonna drain my steering box this winter and put the cornhead grease in it...I'm tired of it leaking....

[BobB]

I once saw a single shrink wrapped potato with an "organic" sticker on it for $1.99.

 

Hank 

I'm still trying to find a single potato that isn't organic . . .

[greg g]

Hey I just bought a bag of Doritos.  You know what the lable was touting?  New Brighter colors............on the Bag!!!!!