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Input Shaft Needed


doctor dirt

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I  drained it and filled when I first got the car!! Since then its been removed and leaks and a rebuild on the clutch was done. The bushings on the shaft and the coupler were replaced and the Kendal 10W was used in the coupler.

 

Some folks say the ISO 32 is whats best for it but I've read the 10W non detergent was ok!!! I want the best fluid to be used.   B) ??? Doc.

Edited by doctor dirt
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Some folks say the ISO 32 is whats best for it but I've read the 10W non detergent was ok!!! I want the best fluid to be used.   B) ??? Doc.

 

ISO 32 is apparently the preferred, with 10W being a suitable option.

 

Several years ago when I got my Dodge I inquired about it, and have a letter from a Chrysler Historical representative telling me I could use 10W

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I am trying to find "Mobile DTE (light circulating oil) ISO 32" .................Not in a 55 gal drum hahaha!!!! Its out there and I will talk with some local retailers about ordering it! I'm told the Kendal won't hurt anything but it actually might be the better oil for the tranny instead of the SAE 90????

 

Doc, these guys will sell by the gallon if you walk in with your own pail.  You just need to plan a vacation in WI. :)

 

http://www.hfifluidpowerproducts.com/Pages/Hydraulic-Fluid.html

 

Chart included in the link.

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BINGO!!!!!!! ..........Home depot has 2 gals. on the shelf! ($13.97) Why has it taken this long....................... :rolleyes: 

 

ok back to the coupe, got a little shake (not much) idleing at a stop without the clutch in, the cars in gear! It did NOT do this prior to the work just done so I think it can be resolved with the clutch adjustment (on Tues am) ..........is it possible that the 10W might be heavier than expected and the coupler is lagging??? Just a guess don't get crazy on me now! :lol: Off to Home Bingo       ..I mean Depot! ;)  Doc

Edited by doctor dirt
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Unbelievable!!!!!

The coupe will have the clutch adjusted in the AM and hopefully things will go smoothly. They are going to replace the spring (pedal) and check to see if the lines from the oil canister are working. It was down a quart on Sat so either I messed up buying 4 instead of 5 or they messed up pouring 4 or theres was 5 in and the canister is holding 1qt and isn't working!!!!  I didn't have access to a lift over the weekend so I couldn't check it out!!

 

Next Monday the plan is to pull the wheel and get the steering box out and bring it to the machine shop! I guess the best results would be worn bearing(s).

Maybe I'll get lucky with this project and any search needed will be short termed!  After the box is repaired I'll add about 200 miles locally and then plan to go across the state (165 miles 1 way) and visit a friend in Lantana Bch. (south West Palm), so a round trip that will run about 400 total!

 

Will soon look into Vintage A/C for the car, I lived here the first 18 years or so hardly ever using the A/C but things are different now and the unit is a must!

Also will research for a nice stereo, the car is set up for 5" in the door and 7" under the rear valance. The old stereo in the glove box is shot!!!

 

Any suggestions on Adapters for these 12V units to run through 6V boxes? Not positive but the A/C unit might come as a 6V unit upon request!!!      Doc

Edited by doctor dirt
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You should have bought 6 quarts. I can't believe a shop wouldn't check it after an oil change. The capacity of the system is 5 plus 1 for the oil filter. Its listed that way because the filter was an option.

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Ed..... That one is on me, I didn't realize it was 5+1. They are working on the clutch adjustment now and are having some problems (yes they have the manual) not sure whats happening yet but they'll call after 6pm.

I'm not able to get around today or I'd go down there. thanx Doc

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Picked the car up this morning, the clutch is better but not 100%! I will try the ISO 32 in place of the 10W non detergent for the hell of it but I doubt its a solution.

I'll see if I can set a date to visit "Old Guy" outside of a Orlando so the proper setting can be set. Until then moving into reverse while the engine isn't running works to move out of the garage and using second as my first gear to third is how I drive anyways. There are no hills or inclines to speak of in south west Florida so first gear is a tractor pull here!

I want the miles on the car this week and maybe a trip to Orlando instead of south West Palm will be arrainged, nice to have the coupe back even if the finality of this project wasn't a success. Doc.

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It's a pretty simple thing to adjust the clutch on your fluid drive car. 1" of free play at the top of the clutch pedal. Thats it. Should not grind in reverse or first even with 90-140W hypoid oil in the couplar.

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Been side lined for a few days because of a blocked nerve in my leg, luckly it freed up!!! Amazing how the body gives and takes away!

 

The play on the pedal is 1 inch, moving into reverse has improved yet first gear is tuff. I need to drive this car alot and everything break in but I get sidelined because of my health situation.

 

Please understand that I searched for almost 3 months for a shop willing to take the coupe in and do the work so my options were limited to say the least! The car club members here aren't here right now because the greater percentage of them are snowbirds! There is a "Muscle City" event center pretty close to me in Punta Gorda Fl. who suggested a few people to me months ago but they're gone till Oct. tried my best!

 

Ok on to the steering box next week and I'm VERY nervous about that!!!! :huh:  haha! Doc

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  • 2 weeks later...

Looking to finish up the bigger projects that the Coupe came to me with this Sunday!

Going to pull the steering box+column and drop it at the machinists shop on Monday (he'll be there).

Hopefully its just bearings that are the problem. I've asked what fluid (grease)  to use on the steering box thread but no one has an answer. The machinists and I seem to think that a 90 lube would work well. If anyone has a better suggestion throw it out please!

 

To date....1949 Dodge Wayfarer bus. coupe............................................................

rebulit carb

rebuilt oil filter canister

spark plugs

valve cover gaskets

oil pan gasket---oil Amsoil 10w/30 + zinc

rear main seal

radiator flush + cap + thermostat + block vac. (green ant-freeze 60/40%)

coupler leaks fixed 

clutch redone

King Pins replaced

fuel pump (rebuilt)

wiper arm linkage repaired

starter rebuilt

New Diamondhead (Hankook) AS4  radials 205/75/15 (3 1/2 WW) plus spare blk. + align.

 

Cosmetics;

sun visors==1975 bronco shhhhh

short drip rail mirrors

15" 1 1/2 chrome beauty rings

N.O.S. Dodge Lisc. plate frame

all new bulbs front to back

handmade leather steering wheel wrap

matts 4

 

Alot of work and time put into this car so far but I'm near the end of the larger projects!

After the gear box I will finish up the alignment and look for a nice stereo and a vintage a/c unit. It hasn't been fun because of my limitations but its close to done!!!

thanx again forum members who helped, big thanx to Plymouthy, a gentlemen.    Doc.

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per the manual in the lubrication section there is a note on Steering Gear lube...SAE90 Fluid Gear Lubricant.   Fill to lubricant is just below filler plug hole.  In extreme cold climes one can cut this 90 GFL with 10 weight oil to thin it a bit.  DO NOT LUBE WITH A PRESSURE GIN (page 310 of the Plymouth service manual 1946-1954..as they share steering, one can use this as guide or look to a book dedicated to the Dodge, feel certain of the same requirements)

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Thanks Plymouthy, the lube setion in my book doesn't address the gear box lube. Just wanted to be sure about the 90 lube before I use it.

 

There seems to be a gasket needed and I need to follow up the gear search in case the gears are in poor condition. I undrstand all the parts within are numbered but my searches through NAPA etc. has not been good so I'll go over things with the vendors listed here and a few that aren't in case the box has more issues other than bearings.

I can't hang up my friends lift or driveway space in the amount of time it takes to hunt down parts and then ship them in. I don't have the luxuries of my own lift and garage not to mention good health. I'll put the box off till I can cover the bases fully and hopefully pull it this week or next Sunday.

 

I have a small handle bar change for my 94 FXR-P with an old school "buckhorn" xlch bar that I just finished with a nice coat of black imron paint, looks beautifull. I have to lengthen the control wires about 12" so I'll do that little project while I gather info on the box upgrade.

Let you know about the parts avalible and whatever gasket & seals are needed for the archives section if anyone else goes through this project. thanx Doc :D

Edited by doctor dirt
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What shape is your steering gearbox in now? Does it really need a rebuild? How much free play is there? Have you attemped to make adjustments to eliminate or lessen the free play? You may be able to save a lot of money by making easy adjustments with out removing the gearbox. 

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Turning left is extremely tight and the steering wheel has some tension in it. Turning right is very very loose almost a quarter turn of the wheel before it engages!

It looks like the box has been adjusted alot and a variety of shims used from the markings seen. The king pins have been done, the arm is in solid shape all the rubber is good and theres new radial tires on. A partial alignment was done that help the car a little but without the box being correct I'll need to redue the alignment.

My regular mechanic is familar with the box and the machinists I found has done a few through the years for classic car members of a club he knows.

I feel good about who's doing the work I just can't hang up the lift with my car and pushing it in & out of his garage would be difficult by himself as he needs the lift!

 

So once I get the gasket and have things in order the box will come out, the machinists will open it the same day and hopefully whatever is needed can be found locally. If not I can have whats needed in a day or three! 

If I could have found one garage to handle all the projects believe me I would have done in!

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Worm and sectors are very hard to come by for 1949-52 MoPars.

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