First Time Start

[Brandon S]

After the rebuild of the '42 218 in Jan and countless thousands over the last 14 months, this weekend I think I am ready to crank her up for the first time in who knows how many decades maybe.  Everything on it is OEM and all components have been tested (starter/generator, etc.) or replaced (water pump, fuel pump) or rebuilt (carb, distributor).  So besides priming the engine by hand-turning the crankshaft and filling the carb bowl plus all wires connected and hopefully grounded, and charged 6V positive ground battery, anything else I may be missing?  I'm really excited to get to this point but have anxiety that I could do some serious damage...who knows?. Thanks in advance, Brandon 

[larryconnors]

Did you put oil in the crank case?

[P15-D24]

Proper first time startup requires pressurizing the oil system from an external oil tank (aka leakdown tester)  prior to initial start.  You can spin the crank with the starter to prime the oil pump but i can guarantee after 2-3 revolutions your assembly lube is gone and if oil pressure is not up it is metal on metal contact. 

[Brandon S]

got 5 quarts in plus 1/2 quart in the filter.  I'll see where I can borrow the leakdown tester.  Don't want to put 100K miles of wear in 30 seconds.  I got to see how the timing can be roughly set too- book says #6 at TDC for timing marking?? 

[P15-D24]

Check the article in the Tech Tips on Static Ignition Timing.

[greg g]

Good luck! Nothing like the first startup to reward all your work and investment.  My rebuilt engine built Oil pressure after only about 3htee revolutions of the engine on the starter.  Not saying the previous advice isn't worthwhile, just relating my experience. Did yo do a static timing procedure?  the pointer can be aligned to the timing marks but ot necessarily when #1 is at TDC.  Got coolant inthe system?

[P15-D24]

Guess they are now called pre lube tanks.

[Don Coatney]

I did like Greg and spun my engine with the starter (spark plugs removed) until the oil pressure came up. I also coated all the bearings with STP as well as assembly lube when I assembled the engine. I did all this along with a compression test while the engine was still on the bench. But use of a pre lube tank is the better way to go.

 

[Jerry Roberts]

 In an earlier thread someone had built a pre-lube tank from a garden sprayer . Pump it up connected to one of the plugs in the oil galley . Perhaps it was Blueskies . 

[TodFitch]

 In an earlier thread someone had built a pre-lube tank from a garden sprayer . Pump it up connected to one of the plugs in the oil galley . Perhaps it was Blueskies . 

I guess the 15 to 20 psi that you can get those sprayers up to might be enough. . . Hadn't thought of that one nor remembered the earlier post.

[Brandon S]

The good book says rotor points at #1 and breaker points begin to open at #6 TDC.  I heard some Marvel Oil down the spark plug hole to lube the piston rings??  Got some linkage on collectors auto supply and attach the accelerator to the pivot posts then cross my fingers and see what happens.  Saw the article on static timing- good stuff!!

[Brandon S]

 

 

Ok, after burning out and rebuilding the starter because ir couldn't torque the flywheel, I found my belt was toooooo tight and it had a distinct grinding noise when I used the hand crank.  Remembering my '67 Camaro, I used a crowbar to pull the alternator out to have the belt tight but not so on the ole Plymouths?  Going to try the 6V>12V jump method today to get it it to turnover.  Wish me luck

[mayflower48]

Just one question. If your car has not been running for a week or two, and it cranks more than 2 or 3 turns is the bearings metal to metal contact?

Edited August 11, 2013 by mayflower48

[Brandon S]

it's probably never ran in 20+ years but has a fresh rebuilt engine.  I loosened the belt and no more grinding noise.  gonna try again later today.  The starter did not have enough torque or juice to turn the flywheel enough to crank and it burned out (plus the battery cables were sure darn hot!).

Edited August 11, 2013 by Brandon S

[Brandon S]

^{Well after figuring out the inline fuel filter was in backwards (DUH!), I made the 12V jump after jump until fuel got in the carb.  Saw an oil pressure gauge leak in the cab (luckily no tinstalled the carpet yet) and no big deal.  Then a miracle: it fired and was idling at high speed so as I ran out to disconnect the cables, puddle of antifreeze running out, woops.  Turned it off and long behold, the freeze plug behind the oil canister blew out!  UGGGGHHHH!  anybody know what causes that?  Do I have to pull the engine?  Is it the machine shop's fault?  I'm about ready to push this thing off the Mississippi River bridge!}

[knuckleharley]

Good luck! Nothing like the first startup to reward all your work and investment.  My rebuilt engine built Oil pressure after only about 3htee revolutions of the engine on the starter. 

I agree,and it's no big deal anyway because the engine isn't hot,and if you take the plugs out to spin it over to build up oil pressure,it's not even under any sort of load.

 

Some people like the idea of packing the oil pump full of grease first so it starts pumping quicker,though.

[knuckleharley]

Guess they are now called pre lube tanks.

ARRRRRGGGGGHHHHHH!  

 

Affordable tool I don't have!

 

MUST RESIST BUYING!

 

Until I sell something to pay for it,anyway.

[turtle47]

Mine did the same thing , but on two of them . The machine shop didn't put them in all the way..I didn't have the doghouse on yet so it was a easy fix .

[falconvan]

Bummer! Is it in a place you can reach it to put it back in?