Helping Engine Oiling

[bbbbbb99]

I have read different solutions to improving engine oiling from a HP pump with a 1/4 inch shim on the bypass, relieving the crank bearings with an oil groove, restricting the line going to the camshaft (????).

 

What are the forums thoughts on the oiling of oooour engines?

[Don Coatney]

What is the reason you need to improve the oil flow to your engine?

[bbbbbb99]

What is the reason you need to improve the oil flow to your engine?

 

 

To be honest Don, I'm just mentally maste****ng. I'm still in the process of gathering parts for the poroject and the engine rebuild is a few years off. I was just surfing the net about rebuilds and quite a few different thoughts were out there so I thought I'd ask.

[Don Coatney]

Suggest you continue your mental activites until you go totally blind or come to terms with reality. Ask a question that makes sence and you might get a sensable answer.

[bbbbbb99]

Suggest you continue your mental activites until you go totally blind or come to terms with reality. Ask a question that makes sence and you might get a sensable answer.

 WOW, something get under your saddle?  Have I broken some forum rule or is the forum only for folks in the middle of engine rebuilds or car rebuilds?

 

What doesn't make sence about my question?  I've read various articles or posts on the net about improving engine oiling. I'm just looking for opinions. If that pisses you off then I gues you can ignore the thread.

[Andydodge]

BBBBB.........its o/k........Don sometimes misses his meds.......lol........I've had a double dose of mine to compensate........lol.....seriously tho' I was wondering the same when I was collecting the bits for my since sold 230 HiPo(lol) engine..........I obtained a new oil pump, and was also going to have the journals crossdrilled and or grooved, depending on what the machinist thought.......I also intended to have the engine balanced...........apart from running an external race car oil pump which I have seen pics of on a Bonneville flat6 a few yrs ago that's about all that can be done.........I know there are two styles of impeller used in the mopar oil pump, not sure what the yr cutoff or what is but the new pump I had had the "later" style rotor from what I was told..........anyway..........I ended up selling the engine with all the bits due to financial restraints.........hope you have more success.........btw I use a good quality Vaseline..........cuts the friction and quicker results.....oops..........wrong forum...................lol........regards, andyd   

[bbbbbb99]

BBBBB.........its o/k........Don sometimes misses his meds.......lol........I've had a double dose of mine to compensate........lol.....seriously tho' I was wondering the same when I was collecting the bits for my since sold 230 HiPo(lol) engine..........I obtained a new oil pump, and was also going to have the journals crossdrilled and or grooved, depending on what the machinist thought.......I also intended to have the engine balanced...........apart from running an external race car oil pump which I have seen pics of on a Bonneville flat6 a few yrs ago that's about all that can be done.........I know there are two styles of impeller used in the mopar oil pump, not sure what the yr cutoff or what is but the new pump I had had the "later" style rotor from what I was told..........anyway..........I ended up selling the engine with all the bits due to financial restraints.........hope you have more success.........btw I use a good quality Vaseline..........cuts the friction and quicker results.....oops..........wrong forum...................lol........regards, andyd   

Thanks Andy. I hope Don's not upset, I've been reading his posts on various forums for about 4-5 years now and the guy has a wealth of knowledge and usually seems great.

 

I have a 1953 218 that it looks like someone attempted to rebuild but did something wrong.  Vavles are stuck and tons of carbon buildup. I also have a 230 from a 56 plymouth that needs a total rebuild. This project is my "project in waiting" as I am slowly putting my 64 Dart SW back together.

 

I've heard that oiling issues have shortened the life of these engines and so I was doing Due Diligence.

[pflaming]

Get accustomed to Don, he's a great resource. Have you run the engine? Mine sat for 20 years, I got it running, it had 40# oil pressure and low compression, so I did a ring and valve job, increased my compression and now I get 14 MPH to the gallon. So let the engine tell you what it needs, no one on the forum can.  BUT clean out that block so the water can circulate. 

[Dave72dt]

I've heard that oiling issues have shortened the life of these engines and so I was doing Due Diligence

 

If you'd responded to Don initially with this information instead of the particular mental activity you mentioned in post #3, his response would have been totally different.

 

I haven't heard they had oiling issues.  You can of course , chamfer the lube holes on the crank, blueprint the oil pump, ensure all the oil passages are clean, resize the rods to ensure they meet specs.  Basic blueprint stuff.  Cross drilling shouldn't be necessary.

[Plymouthy Adams]

I'll weight in here a bit also, the more information/facts given in relating a question in search of a "good" answer..the more likely that answer will be given and in quick order...I passed on the subject as there are many thoughts to this oiling issue but not knowing your intent or application I declined to comment at the time..his question back to you was in no way any more vague than the one you yourself posed...

[greg g]

What you intend to do with the engine, usually determins its duty cycle.  Are you putting it in a pulling tactor running it up to 6K and holding it there till the end of a run, are you building a race motor which will expected to make high Hp at medium to high rpms, or are you going to put it in a car and cruise it around.  The long stroke of these engines does not easily lend it self to the first two uses and utilizing it thusly would require a much healthier lubrication system.  But if you are puttin it in a car and running it around and under its peak HP rpm, it seems the Chrylser engineers did their jobs fairly well.  You hear about failures of bearings at sustained high rpms.  Kinda like taking your 4 to one rear end vehicle, setting the speed at 70, jumping on the nearest Interstate and heading for the furthest coast line.  When the car was designed, that was not in the cards.  Sure short bursts of high speed were doable but  you probably couldn't drive from one major to another and average 50.  So the questions of what the application will be seem to the point of formulating an answer.

[pflaming]

My parts store machinist suggested I have  him balance the pistons, ris pins, and rods. His reasoning was that when these are off balance they develop a rhythm that knocks out the bearings  which then is blamed on the oil. I did as he suggested and I get comments all the time that I have a very smooth, quiet running engine which I do. 

[Guest bewillie]

A question doesn't have to make sence to everyone else,as long as it does to the one asking it. Everyone has there own way of putting things. If you don't like the question don't answer it.

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

yes Bill that is correct, and I didn't...I had no clue to what his intent was and therefore could have misled the man..

Edited June 12, 2013 by Plymouthy Adams

[Guest bewillie]

I am with you 100% Tim

[mayflower48]

An out of balanced engine is like a shoping cart with a wobbly wheel.  The crank is trying to shake around in the main bearings.  Also be sure to balance the pressure plate, flywheel and damper.  It will add many miles to the bearing life.

[54Illinois]

I think that you should build the engine to factory spec, then change the oil regularly, watch for gas getting in it, and any other issues. 

[bbbbbb99]

I thought the intial question of, "What are the forum's thoughts on the oiling of our engines" after my brief discription of my search results was pretty plainly stated. If the forum needs more detail before it answers a question, I will gladly comply

[Plymouthy Adams]

if just general engine oiling principle are of interest to you a search online will find a very informative article by Mahle on the subject...the why's wherefores and previous misconception of a full circle lubrication..

[Don Coatney]

I have never heard that oiling issues have shortened the life of these Mopar flathead 6 engines unless you are spinning the engine at 5 grand or higher for extended periods of time. Thus I questioned the reason you need to improve the oil flow to your engine. Your response appeared to me to be a joke so I responded acordingly.

 

Do you plan on running your engine at elevated RPM's for an extended period of time? George Asche told me a story a couple weeks ago of someone with a 283 CI Crashler engine (overbored 265) who spins his engine to close to 7 grand. He has done every trick known to increase oil flow including cross drilling the crankshaft, restricting oilflow to the camshaft, installing baffles in the oil pan to eliminate oil balling around the crankshaft, and cutting extra oil groves in the rod and main bearings. So there are things to do if you need to. For a street driven engine the factory setup is sufficient and will last for more miles than you will most likely drive your car.

[bbbbbb99]

I have never heard that oiling issues have shortened the life of these Mopar flathead 6 engines unless you are spinning the engine at 5 grand or higher for extended periods of time. Thus I questioned the reason you need to improve the oil flow to your engine. Your response appeared to me to be a joke so I responded acordingly.

 

Do you plan on running your engine at elevated RPM's for an extended period of time? George Asche told me a story a couple weeks ago of someone with a 283 CI Crashler engine (overbored 265) who spins his engine to close to 7 grand. He has done every trick known to increase oil flow including cross drilling the crankshaft, restricting oilflow to the camshaft, installing baffles in the oil pan to eliminate oil balling around the crankshaft, and cutting extra oil groves in the rod and main bearings. So there are things to do if you need to. For a street driven engine the factory setup is sufficient and will last for more miles than you will most likely drive your car.

Thanks Don. I should've left out my off color comment for sure.

 

Street engine. It was just a general question because of the interweb search results I was getting. Sounds like stock with be fine and a balance job is the best approach during a rebuild

[48Dodger]

This was the first time I read this through this thread.

 

I thought Don's reply was fine....it took awhile for the best info to surface because the responder (replier?)

was left with the task of defining the question further. Which of course shouldn't be a problem, but since

Don, Tim, Merle and others respond to so many posts, sometimes it is more helpful to give a bit more 

background on where your question originated.

 

b99 threw a general question out there and Don's vast knowledge of variables came slamming into the

memory recall despensor of his brain...like a lottery ticket machine spitting out tickets.....so many possibilites that  

maybe one of the those number combos could be the answer, the winner for  b99's question. Boy, that could give  

a guy a headache.

 

But anyhow.....I found it entertaining and liked the ending.

 

Build it right and trust the engineers!

 

48D

[Plymouthy Adams]

I was brought up with the old adage of                 "keep it stock, keep it running"               

[bbbbbb99]

I was brought up with the old adage of                 "keep it stock, keep it running"               

 

 

I hear ya and with you on that. That's the problem with the interweb, opinions almost become facts  (in appearance) as more and more posters (repliers) chime in lending crediblity to theories.

 

The best advice I have read so far is to keep it stock with the exception of balancing.

 

Thanks guys

[Plymouthy Adams]

even the factory had it balanced on assembly...piston and rod and such of the rotating mass was balanced...the components had to be within x grams of the other to be considered useable in that engine..they did not do a rotating mass balance as for most daily drivers this was not really needed.  But there is no harm in doing so if you want to pay the price of the procedure..for sure you can only benefit..  Balance and blueprint are over used terms machine hype terms that are in fact the very standard of engine building as it means staying within and adhering to the factory specification on the build.