ferdball Posted June 6, 2013 Report Posted June 6, 2013 Found a nice little gem in a local paper that looks like all it needs is some minor body work and paint. Interior is all done and engine compartment, all in working driving order. I'm not sure how rare (if at all) a 2 door sedan is. I believe it's the deluxe model but it's hard to tell. I doesn't show any trim on the rear fenders but the windshield has chrome.??? I think he's got the bumper Guy wants $3,300 obo Holler at me if you think I should jump on it.... Quote
mrwrstory Posted June 6, 2013 Report Posted June 6, 2013 Don't know if that's a screamin deal or not but,....sure looks like a nice car and if it's something you like I say go for it. Obviously a nice project if that's what your comfortable with. Be a shame to loose out for a few hundred bucks as I don't believe there are many around in that shape and at that stage of finish. Quote
ferdball Posted June 6, 2013 Author Report Posted June 6, 2013 I like to find them in "tinker" condition. Like this one. Am wondering how to find out just how many they made of these. Vs coupes. Club coupes etc.. Any sources would be greatly appreciated. Quote
ferdball Posted June 6, 2013 Author Report Posted June 6, 2013 Found some great vin info http://www.classiccardatabase.com/VINengcodes.php Quote
larryconnors Posted June 6, 2013 Report Posted June 6, 2013 The body looks good although I'd check the floors and under the tail lights for rust. The interior looks nice. It looks like a different shift knob than the original. It has a radio. The engine was repainted with a spray can in the car. It has stone guards on the rear fenders- a nice feature. Dodges are usually fluid drive. Why was the front bumper removed? Paint appears to be the biggest thing it needs. Have you heard it run. Will it move in all the gears? What does the owner give as a reason for selling it? what can they tell you about the car's history? A 2 door is a nice model. Why are you on the fence? I'd say it looks really nice and I'd say I don't see any reason not to buy it. Quote
Don Coatney Posted June 6, 2013 Report Posted June 6, 2013 How are the brakes? Has this car ben converted to 12 volts? Quote
_shel_ny Posted June 6, 2013 Report Posted June 6, 2013 (edited) EDIT: from "standard catalog of american cars" EDIT 2: production #'s 46-48, and 1st series 49 EDIT 3: http://mopar.pairserver.com/p15d24ph_forum/page/p15d24/reference/d24_reference_.html Edited June 6, 2013 by shel_bizzy_48 Quote
54Illinois Posted June 6, 2013 Report Posted June 6, 2013 If that engine was freshly painted, in the car, who knows how it will look after it has ran awhile. I would drive it, and at least let it idle a long time. Bring a gallon or two of gas just to be polite. If it flakes, you are way beyond tinkering.... Being a decent looking car, I think it is on the higher end as far as pricing. I could see paying $2200. I base my pricing on the Old Cars Guide, grading between a 4 and 5 concerning condition. 1 Quote
mrwrstory Posted June 6, 2013 Report Posted June 6, 2013 (edited) I could see paying $2200. I base my pricing on the Old Cars Guide, grading between a 4 and 5 concerning condition. The point I was trying to make was, "if you walked away because of a perceived $1000.00 too much in others opinion,..... and really like the car, and didn't have an alternate, you'd be kickin yourself later. If you enjoy the car for 10 years, that's only $100.00 a year and you could save that by cutting back on beer if it's that big a deal And, not to criticize others, my take is the Old Cars Guide can be waaaay off in many cases. I don't think it's particularly current or takes into account special interests. Edited June 6, 2013 by mrwrstory 1 Quote
GlennCraven Posted June 6, 2013 Report Posted June 6, 2013 (edited) I've been using the Hagerty Insurance website's valuation tools for cars I run across built in 1946 or newer. Hagerty specializes in insuring antique and special-interest automobiles and boats, so it's important to them that they know the real value of these vehicles on the market. (But you won't find truck values here that I've noticed.) If you try to use the valuation tools more than four or five times, the site will ask you to register. But that's free and other than the occasional annoyance of having to re-enter username and password, it's been very informative and entertaining for me. Hagerty bases its valuations (revised monthly) on data from auctions large and small, sales reported by dealers, and peer-to-peer sales (which are 71.5 percent of the collector car market) as reported by individuals who seek insurance with their company. It would be impossible to track every sale, but they're arguably doing the best job of anyone at trying to establish accurate values for cars ranging from No. 1 Concours condition through No. 4s, drivers with obvious flaws and maybe non-stock features or even missing minor parts. (They don't deal with No. 5s as the condition of non-running and/or incomplete but restorable vehicles or parts cars can vary wildly.) If this is a 1947 D24 Deluxe two-door sedan, Hagerty places the No. 4 value at $4,700 ... more than I'd have guessed. Note that No. 1 condition is only $15,100, so there's not a lot of room to go crazy on a frame-off restoration! Everyone else's advice about double-checking the condition, especially of the drivetrain, should be heeded. But his asking price doesn't seem way out of line, especially if he'd come down a few hundred. Edited June 6, 2013 by GlennCraven 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 6, 2013 Report Posted June 6, 2013 as far as Hagerty and or other so called pricing guides, well, paint finish and clean interior does not make car values equal.....the base work and body condition prior to the bombing on of paint is the real meat and potatoes.....you have folks that think their ratty looking car is near the top in asking price just because other cars have sold for X amount...rust free to some means only that they are not charging for the rust... Quote
Adam H P15 D30 Posted June 6, 2013 Report Posted June 6, 2013 FYI. None of those guides are correct for modified vehicles, Depends on which part of the country you live in, mods done, engine choice, quality of work. I just checked out of curiosity and I sold my last hotrod for more than twice what that "guide" said it was worth. It seems to detract for any mods. One man's opinion. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 6, 2013 Report Posted June 6, 2013 my point exactly..and the resulting sale of a modified car will be a value reached between the seller and the buyer as both know what has been done and the buyer knowing this is still bargaining on the price...so yes...the resulting value of any deal is the agreed price between the two parties always has been and always will be...the guides are just that..there are no adjustments for location and other such factors..even a set of tires could affect the selling price some 800-1000 dollars.. Quote
Don Coatney Posted June 6, 2013 Report Posted June 6, 2013 I agree that there is no accurate book value on any vehicle. But the books are created by averaging all available data and those averages are a good starting point. Quote
JerseyHarold Posted June 6, 2013 Report Posted June 6, 2013 As is said in the car biz: Books don't buy cars! 1 Quote
greg g Posted June 6, 2013 Report Posted June 6, 2013 Start it up, listen to it, do a compression check, hook up a vacuum gauge, get uder the dash and take a look at the wiring. Does it go and stop, are all the pieces there, do the instruments work, are the tires good? Does the generator charge, does it leave a puddle where its parked? From the pic posted, it looks like a solid car but are the floors intact, is the spare tire well in good condition. It it rus drives and stops, doesn't blow smoke of over heat and all the above item check out, than I would pay in the 3 k neighborhood. Quote
GlennCraven Posted June 6, 2013 Report Posted June 6, 2013 (edited) rust free to some means only that they are not charging for the rust... LOL! FYI. None of those guides are correct for modified vehicles, Depends on which part of the country you live in, mods done, engine choice, quality of work. I just checked out of curiosity and I sold my last hotrod for more than twice what that "guide" said it was worth. It seems to detract for any mods. One man's opinion. my point exactly..and the resulting sale of a modified car will be a value reached between the seller and the buyer as both know what has been done and the buyer knowing this is still bargaining on the price...so yes...the resulting value of any deal is the agreed price between the two parties always has been and always will be...the guides are just that..there are no adjustments for location and other such factors..even a set of tires could affect the selling price some 800-1000 dollars.. Definitely the book values are just guidelines, but they do try to define for you what THEY consider a No. 1, No. 2, No. 3 and No. 4 car. Indeed you have to make additions or subtractions for things you think are above or below those lines. The example of a new set of tires is a perfect one; that could easily add hundreds or more to the price of an otherwise No. 4 or No. 3 car. (I'd expect like-new tires on a No. 2 or certainly a No. 1.) And when modifications come into the equation, then you have a different beast entirely. A modified car, a street rod, whatever, is worth only what you can sell it for, no matter what you put into it. I see so many cars advertised for what the owner paid to build it without much hope of getting that price -- or honestly listed as "my loss is your gain -- because unless the right person with the right money loves that car as much as you do, it's going to be tough to get your money back on it. ... The further from stock you get and the wilder you go, the more likely the value is skewed. Like this 1972 Cutlass they've tried for quite some time to unload for $14,950 in Olathe, Kan. I agree that there is no accurate book value on any vehicle. But the books are created by averaging all available data and those averages are a good starting point. Yep. How you choose to use the data is up to you. Edited June 6, 2013 by GlennCraven Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 7, 2013 Report Posted June 7, 2013 Like this 1972 Cutlass they've tried for quite some time to unload for $14,950 in Olathe, Kan. Yep. How you choose to use the data is up to you. I find it hard to believe they are paying someone to take this car for 14,950.00 and it still sitting....oh..silly me no wonder..they ASKING that much... Quote
Young Ed Posted June 7, 2013 Report Posted June 7, 2013 Tim maybe they need to send pics to 7up or sprite. Get a deal promoting lemon lime soda. 1 Quote
Don Coatney Posted June 7, 2013 Report Posted June 7, 2013 I would pay the asking price on the Olds if it didnt have those silly wheels and tires, if it were not painted that stupid green, and if it were not an Oldsmobobble. 1 Quote
larryconnors Posted June 8, 2013 Report Posted June 8, 2013 Ferdball, End the suspense and let us know what happened. Did you buy it? Quote
YukonJack Posted June 8, 2013 Report Posted June 8, 2013 No Don, I think you spelled that wrong. Isn't is supposed to be BozoMobile. Lol. I'm sure somewhere there is a Gang Banger or Pimp that would love to have it. Personally I think Anything over an 18" wheel looks silly. I would pay the asking price on the Olds if it didnt have those silly wheels and tires, if it were not painted that stupid green, and if it were not an Oldsmobobble. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 8, 2013 Report Posted June 8, 2013 we referred to them as Slowsmobiles.... Quote
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