Cab Height ?

[Jeff Balazs]

There is a cut out in the sheet metal at the back of our cabs. Can someone tell me what the correct distance should be from the flange on this sheet metal cutout to the top of the frame?

Thanks, Jeff

[ggdad1951]

If I remember right, it's right around 1 inch.  But I'd not be able to measure till 3:30 CST.

[Dave72dt]

I'm at  1 1/4" on mine, sitting on new mounts, but the mount bolts are not tight. 

[52b3b Joe]

1" sounds about right for mine. Mine was sitting low, so I added spacers to get it a little higher for the front clip it match the cab better. 

[Dodgeb4ya]

I looked at five of my trucks. All between 3/8 to 3/4".

Bob

Edited May 28, 2013 by Dodgeb4ya

[ggdad1951]

FEF sits at about 3/4" spacing

[Jeff Balazs]

Thank you guy's;

I will see what I can do with this.

 

Jeff

[Desotodav]

I recall when I did mine Jeff that the spacing that I placed between the cab and the chassis affected the spacing that I had under the radiator support frame. The spaces in those two areas need to be just right in order to maintain a consistent (or even) gap between your door and fender. I ended up with a piece of conveyor belt rubber between the radiator support frame and the chassis. I was a little fortunate with my 52 truck as it has the crank handle hole in the bumper which made things a little easier to align.

[Jeff Balazs]

Davin;

Thank you for that insight. Was wondering about that.......and figured that was going to be the next wrestling match.

 

In looking through pictures it appears that the top of the running board should be pretty much parallel with the bottom of the door. What is the approx. spacing between these?  I can see I have a lot of adjustments to make. There is nothing too enjoyable about this aspect of the reassembly process on my truck.......too many things got tweaked when it was T-boned years ago.

 

Jeff

[HanksB3B]

This is the hardest part of the assembly.  As I've mentioned before the starting point is to target the foot starter so it contacts the starter lever in a mechanically good position (centered and operable).  The radiator may need shimming and some "U" shaped body shop shims could come in handy (as you will not have to remove the radiator add a washer, remove the radiator add a washer) and so on till you get it right. After you determine the correct height you can use round washers permanently.  As Davin mentioned the alignment between the trailing edge of the fender where it meets the leading edge of the door is key.  If it makes you feel any better it took me three days to be happy with juggling the cab, the radiator and the front clip (mine is still not perfect) It's a do it then walk away think about it, adjust it, tweak it and look at it tomorrow thing.  You might have some special challenges because of the former "T-bone".  Mix it in with other little sure things so you don't feel a whole day was wasted. Psychologically it's a good exercise to see if you really have mastered the left over excited 12 year old boy mentality gene we all still have. It's like after a couple of years...You really want to drive the fricken thing already. 

 

Here's an inspirational photo form Don Bunn's Book:

 

 

You are not alone,

 

Hank 

Edited May 29, 2013 by HanksB3B

[Jeff Balazs]

Thanks Hank;

Yes this part is a real Pita. I am fairly certain that the mounting points on the underside of the cab have been tweaked so getting it "correct" is not simply a matter of using a stock set of rubber bushings. Also it is a bit unclear as to the relationship and measurements of things like the front of the cab versus the rear. Not sure how much the cab is supposed to slope from front to rear either?

Looking at the Body drawings doesn't help much either as they do not include reference dimensions that could make this process much simpler.

 

In looking through Bunn's photos it appears that the top of the running boards should be parallel with the bottom of the doors. Is this true? If so what is the gap between them? 1" ????

 

Jeff

[52b3b Joe]

Thanks Hank;

Yes this part is a real Pita. I am fairly certain that the mounting points on the underside of the cab have been tweaked so getting it "correct" is not simply a matter of using a stock set of rubber bushings. Also it is a bit unclear as to the relationship and measurements of things like the front of the cab versus the rear. Not sure how much the cab is supposed to slope from front to rear either?

Looking at the Body drawings doesn't help much either as they do not include reference dimensions that could make this process much simpler.

 

In looking through Bunn's photos it appears that the top of the running boards should be parallel with the bottom of the doors. Is this true? If so what is the gap between them? 1" ????

 

Jeff

 

My frame was bent too. From experience, it takes a long time to get things decent. My truck was very beat up and it was headache after headache, but I finally have it to a point where I'm happy with it. It is not perfect, but considering where I started from, it will do for now. I still might go back and try shimming the cab higher yet. It took me and my dad a probably 100 plus man hours of trying different combinations of shims, aligning the doors, and the from clip to get somewhere close. As others have said, the biggest problem is getting the door to fender gap correct, but I also had problems with the front panel around the frame where the bumper bolts up (but my front panel and fenders had been hit before probably more than once). 

 

Here are some pictures of the gaps I have at this point. I have no idea how these are to others, but I started with a bent frame, a crushed drivers door, and a beat up from clip. 

[ggdad1951]

There are also spacers for the cab mounts to even out the cab, I had some originally in mine and added one or two after the rebuild.  if you want I can send you pics of one.

[Merle Coggins]

Yes, the bottom of the doors should be parallel with the running boards. I don't know what the distance is on my truck, but I can bearly get my fingers under the door when wiping it down with a polishing cloth.

 

I believe this is why many of the professional restorers will fit and adjust everything prior to painting, then take it all apart again to paint it. It's a lot more work, but then it all fits up without much hassle in the end. I know it's too late for that with your truck, but you can use it on the next one.

 

Merle

[Jeff Balazs]

Yes, the bottom of the doors should be parallel with the running boards. I don't know what the distance is on my truck, but I can bearly get my fingers under the door when wiping it down with a polishing cloth.

 

I believe this is why many of the professional restorers will fit and adjust everything prior to painting, then take it all apart again to paint it. It's a lot more work, but then it all fits up without much hassle in the end. I know it's too late for that with your truck, but you can use it on the next one.

 

Merle

Merle;

There ain't going to be no next one! Once is plenty for this fool ! :o     I know that this is a hobby for a lot of fellows......I get that (sort of)......but I build stuff every day and would much rather go fishing for relaxation.

Jeff

[Don Coatney]

As I had to modify my radiator bracket when I installed a 25" engine I incorporated height adjusters into the bracket as pictured below. By doing this I only dropped the radiator in once and then adjusted the height. This is on a car but the same principle may work on a truck.

 

 

 

 

[Jeff Balazs]

Don;

That is really an excellent idea. To be honest I had no idea that this mounting point might even require anything other than minute adjustments. Shows what little I know.

 

I am so looking forward to tangling with this............ Oh goody.

Jeff

[ggdad1951]

Don;

That is really an excellent idea. To be honest I had no idea that this mounting point might even require anything other than minute adjustments. Shows what little I know.

 

I am so looking forward to tangling with this............ Oh goody.

Jeff

It really depends on what has happened to your truck.  Mine required a few washers as spacers (they were on there when I tore it down).  Unles you REALLY mod your rad you wouldn't have space for the nut on top of the frame mount.

[Desotodav]

I grew tired of jacking the 'dogbox' up and down and trying to get that door/fender gap just right, so I may have cheated a little in my process! I used old conveyor belt rubber for a spacer under that radiator support panel. I found that I could adjust the height easier by installing a spacer with the back-end of the holes chopped out - that way I didn't have to jack it all up til the bolts cleared the holes. It certainly made life easier to get it all where I wanted it sitting.