Ot-Oil Spill-Ot

[randroid]

Gents,

 

First, yes I did see the post about an OT listing place, but when I got there I found no way of posting to it.  I have no doubt somebody will instruct me how to do it but in the meantime please indulge my ignorance.

 

My wife's car developed an oil leak which is now repaired but left a nifty puddle on the garage floor.  Anybody know an equally nifty way of removing it?  I've scraped it and used dish soap on it but I'd like to remove all traces of it.

 

 

Thanks,

 

-Randy

[Young Ed]

Randy is this really off topic? Granted in this case the offending auto is out of scope for this site but my plymouth and dodge certainly leave their marks on the concrete. 

[TodFitch]

I haven't gotten my garage floor as clean as I'd like so obviously I don't know how to do this. However I happened to be doing some searches on the topic yesterday and it seems like using a poultice made of TSP and a filler like diatomaceous earth is one way. And, apparently, there are commercial cleaners you can get but I've never noticed them in the big box home centers near me.

[Don Coatney]

Probably not the best nor safest way but gasolene on a mop works, Even better but more flamable is laquer thinner. About once a year I fire up my pressure washer and do the garage floor, sidewalks, deck, front porch etc.

[frankieflathead]

Assuming that we're talking about a concrete floor with no protective finish on it, try the following : After sopping up all the standing fluid with oil dry, kitty litter, rags, shop towels or newspaper, soak the area down generously with carb or brake cleaner. Let it soak in for a minute or two. Scrub with a stiff bristle brush and then apply more kitty litter. Let stand overnight and sweep it up the next day. If it leaves a "bathtub ring" apply more cleaner or scrub with a stiff bristle brush again using soap and water. You know, it's the old "lather, rinse, repeat." method, although I've never had to do it twice on the same spot.

 

Needless to say, you want to do this with the garage door and windows open for ventilation. Store and dispose of any oil soaked material properly. This stuff is quite flammable. Hope this helps and good luck! .

Edited March 1, 2013 by frankieflathead

[frankieflathead]

Randy is this really off topic? Granted in this case the offending auto is out of scope for this site but my plymouth and dodge certainly leave their marks on the concrete. 

 

Ed, that's just the way they mark their territory.

Edited March 1, 2013 by frankieflathead

[Plymouthy Adams]

get a good unscented clay cat litter..spread on the oil spill...take a chunk of 2x4 wood and grind the clay in the concrete in circular motion..this breaks the cat litter to power and as such will even get the oil out of the pores of the concrete..safe, effective and cost friendly..

[Oldguy48]

I can't vouch for the effectiveness of this stuff, but somewhere among the various car forums that I peruse, I read that Tide laundry detergent does a good job on this task.  I haven't tried it myself, so I can't cite personal experience, but if you decide to purchase some Tide, and scrub your garage floor with it, and it doesn't do the job, just use it in your laundry.  If it does work, please let us know.  Good luck.

[Dodgeb4ya]

As above-laundry detergent and scrub a lot. It will clean up beautifully.

[randroid]

Gents,

 

Thanks for all the prompt replies and good suggestions.  I'll try all of them and include pictures of the results.

 

-Randy

[austinsailor]

I wouldn't try the gasoline one. That is about as dangerous as you can get.

 

Gas fumes are heavier than air and can creep quite a distance. They'll find the pilot in the water heater in the closet or next room, or creep down the drive and some guy passing by will toss a cigarette, it'll ignite and go just like an instant fuse back to you.

 

For example, a friend had a slight drip from his fuel pump, figured he'd fix it soon. Even with the garage door cracked, the fumes found the water heater and half the house was in flames before he could get his kids out. 

[randroid]

Austin,

 

Good idea, especially since the gas water heater is next to the spill; I would like to think I would have thought of that beforehand but a reminder is offensive only after the firefighters have left.  The temp is supposed to be in the mid-50s today so it will be a good day for working with the garage door open.  Thanks for bringing that up.

 

-Randy

[Robert Horne]

 

get a good unscented clay cat litter..spread on the oil spill...take a chunk of 2x4 wood and grind the clay in the concrete in circular motion..this breaks the cat litter to power and as such will even get the oil out of the pores of the concrete..safe, effective and cost friendly..

The cat litter has been my method for many years. I keep a cookie baking pan with cat litter

under my Coupe all the time also. Even if I get a spill, I put a little litter on the oil, and let it sit.

[randroid]

Robert,

 

The Tide soap will be the first thing I go for because I've used it in the past and know it works fairly well and won't agrevate the situation, then I'll go for the cat litter to finish the job.  I'll try to remember to take pictures so we'll all have a comparison.

 

Come to think of it, the best comparison would be to do one side with Tide and the other with litter.  I have some extra time today and it might serve us all well to see how it goes, then I'll finish with whichever works best.

 

First, though, will be another pot of coffee because it isn't 55 degrees yet.

 

-Randy

[ptwothree]

Another good one is simple green and a parts brush.  Then wipe it up with paper towels...works for me...

[Robert Horne]

I will have to try some of the Tide on a spill. I purchased 2 gallons today from my friend at the Flea Market ....

I have Arm & Hammer laundry powder for my rust treatment process. I have not tried the Arm & Hammer

for oil spills...

[randroid]

Robert,

 

Instead of A&H soap for rust, try TSP.  It's the equivelent of triple strength baking soda and does a magnificent job, plus it's pretty cheap.

 

-Randy

[TodFitch]

Robert,

 

Instead of A&H soap for rust, try TSP.  It's the equivelent of triple strength baking soda and does a magnificent job, plus it's pretty cheap.

 

-Randy

For electrolytic rust removal you only need a tablespoon or so of washing soda in a large bucket of water. Purpose is to provide some electrolyte. All the work is done by the battery charger and sacrificial metal. It is an amazingly effective, fast and thorough way to remove rust. I don't see that TSP would be any better.

[randroid]

TodFitch,

 

TSP and washing soda are the same thing but most stores have never heard it called washing soda and won't know they carry it.  A&H also puts out a laundry soap, which is not the same thing.  If Robert is already using washing soda I'm sure he won't be too offended if I mention TSP, but if he's not it's a good word to pass along.

 

-Randy

Edited March 3, 2013 by randroid

[Robert Horne]

 

Robert,

 

Instead of A&H soap for rust, try TSP.  It's the equivelent of triple strength baking soda and does a magnificent job, plus it's pretty cheap.

 

-Randy

 

What I read on the internet, when it comes to the rust treatment process, was to use soda wash,

instead of baking soda.

I try to keep a good supply of different cleaning materials in my shop, & always welcome tips

on different ways to use them.

[Plymouthy Adams]

TodFitch,

 

TSP and washing soda are the same thing but most stores have never heard it called washing soda and won't know they carry it.  A&H also puts out a laundry soap, which is not the same thing.  If Robert is already using washing soda I'm sure he won't be too offended if I mention TSP, but if he's not it's a good word to pass along.

 

-Randy

 

 

Bingo....we have a winner..!   Many other uses for this product...read the label...when in Lowes couple weeks ago I was looking for this for my friends that were with me..they (Lowes) did not know it by washing soda or TSP and said evidently they did not stock it...but sure enough in household cleaning products there it was weith the big letters...TSP

Edited March 3, 2013 by Plymouthy Adams

[randroid]

Robert,

 

Any confusion here is simply a matter of semantics; there was quite the discussion here about five years ago and the gist of it was the process is like electroplating, only in reverse.  I use a battery charger, a five gallon plastic bucket, and some steel rods.  Connect the negative end of the charger to the steel rods (the more the merrier; I use four) and the positive side of the charger to the rusty part (check what I said because I may have that backwards) with some TSP disolved in enough water to cover everything and the results are amazing.  Be sure the rusty part doesn't touch the rods or the charger will short out and process will be negated, and if the wires are connected backwards the worst that will happen is you'll plate the part with steel over the rust, which is easily rectified.  I'm too lazy to research the old posts right now but it shouldn't be difficult to locate the old threads about the process.  If this is how you're already doing it maybe a newer member will benefit from the knowledge.

 

-Randy

[Young Ed]

Randy I'm not sure which is + and which is - but my understanding is that if you do it backwards you will derust the sacrificial pieces using your good piece as the sacrifice.

[randroid]

Ed,

 

My way of remembering how to do it is that I used red wire for the negative side (the one connected to the rods) which is contrary to all that is holy but was the color wire I had on hand and always feel a twinge of uneasiness when I connect the power source.  That's as scientific as I ever got with it.  It isn't an instant process so if there's scale building on the rods the polarity is correct and if scale builds on the part swap the wires around.  The system is quite forgiving, especially if you check it early in the process.

 

If there are any more questions I'll bother myself to find the old threads but right now it's still early and my desire for a bowl of Cherrios outweighs my common sense.

 

-Randy

 

-Randy

[Plymouthy Adams]

http://1bad6t.com/rust_removal.html

 

little blurb on using this method...no endorsements, no remarks...take from it what you will..