Headlight switch

[38plymouth]

The headlight switch on my 38 has been acting strange for the last year. It works great for the parking lights but won't turn on the headlights anymore. I was able to wiggle it a little and then it would work, now it does nothing. I have the car packed up and ready for it's trip to it's new home in Florida next week so I can't get a real good look at the switch. While looking at it from the bottom the wires look like they have different ends than I'm used to seeing and they won't pull out of the switch. They almost look like bullet connectors. I was afraid to mess with it too much right now and will wait until I get down South. Does anyone know how the wires are attached on this thing?

[Young Ed]

Yes at least on my p15 they use bullet connections on the headlight switch. I believe my truck is the same way but its been a long time since I've seen it.

[pflaming]

They ARE like bullets with a ridge so they 'snap' in. They will come out but I found it helps to take a small vice grip and turn them to break loose the corrosion. Those switches are not difficult to open up and are very simple inside. Carefull open the four small tabs by bending them then lift the top. Penetrating oil will NOT hurt them so a good soaking on the trip to FL might be sufficiet. Good luck.

[Robert Horne]

Pflaming is correct on these switchs.

Many years ago I took mine apart to clean and lube.

It has always worked good since.

I seen a similar switch at the auto parts store.

[RobertKB]

NOS or NORS switches are on ebay all the time at reasonable prices.

[38plymouth]

I saw some on ebay. I think I will open it up and see if I can fix it.

[Plymouthy Adams]

IF you are able to disassemble and clean the switch..it would probably be a good idea to use the contact only to pick up a low current relay coil and let the relay do the switching to the headlight dimmer switch input..that was your dimmer will select hi/lo and all heavy current is from the battery/amp meter conncection, your chhice here, through an installed in-line protection fuse..

[austinsailor]

Before you take it apart go get some electronic contact cleaner. Use the little tube to spray inside. Drench it, then work the switch in and out over and over. Repeat a number of times.

Chances are good it'll clean it up and fix it. It's worked for me several times and you'll only be out a few dollars even if it doesn't do the trick.

Taking it apart is risky, you might break a tab, loose a part or it may not go back together for you.

Be sure to check all the exterior connections, too. They could also be causing you problems.

[38plymouth]

The switch feels like it has a bad or worn spot when it is in the headlight position. It used to work if I pulled it all the way out and then pushed it in just a little bit.

[BobT-47P15]

Sounds like a worn spot......or perhaps something loose or broken

inside. If you really need lights for the trip.....you might consider

buying a temporary replacement switch for the trip, and maybe

just let it hang down below the dash on the wires if it doesn't fit

the hole just right. .....Just a thought....

[38plymouth]

I'm trailering the car so I don't need the lights. I was just trying to figure out how to get the wires unhooked so I can fix it as soon as I get there.

Edited January 9, 2013 by 38plymouth
typo

[BobT-47P15]

There are a couple studs with nuts, plus bullet type connectors on a

P15 headlight switch.

Just pay real close attention to where you unhooked them from. I got

a couple wires back in wrong once.....it caused the switch to overheat

which kicked off the lights while driving down the street. Not fun.

[builtfercomfort]

What is the silver tube at the back bottom of the switch? Fuse? Dash light? My switch was broken, I've gone to an aftermarket, but the original had that and I never understood it.

[rumble48]

the little silver thingy is a fuse holder...... interesting way to design it....

[38plymouth]

Thanks for the pictures, it definitely helps me understand what I'm looking at when I'm upside down on the floor.

[greg g]

If you don't use the lights much, have check the output at the switch with a test light. In many cases failures of the headlamps can be traced to corrosion of the contacts in the dimmer switch especially if there are periods of disuse. The contacts inside the switch get corroded and will not pass current. So I would chech your circuit at power out from the switch, power into and out of the dimmer, and power in and out of the terminal block (assuming there is a distribution block some where near the front of the car, and power to the lamps, themselves, and then of course good grounds for the lamps.

Though is is probably easier to go from the lights back checking for power, So if ther is power to the lamp it would suggest a bad ground. If there is power to the terminal block but not out then thats where the problem resided etc al the way back to the switch. But for simple tasks like this a test light is the easiest way to chase electrical gremlins.

http://www.paadps.com/continuitytester.aspx

Edited January 10, 2013 by greg g

[BobT-47P15]

That fuse on the headlight switch is the only one in the system of a

46-48 Plymouth. Some people have added more fuses while doing a

re-wire. I think there's an inline fuse with the radio, if used.