Installing fresh air and defroster options

[Jeff Balazs]

Hi Guys;

Was wondering if any of you had added these options to your trucks.

I would really like to add these two features to my truck. My truck has an aftermarket heater which I suppose would have to be abandoned in favor of a #65 Truckmaster???

I see quite a lot of the bits to do this on ebay. It seems as if it should be fairly straightforward if you have all the parts.

Any guidance or spare parts offers would be appreciated.

Thanks, Jeff

[B1B Keven]

Jeff,

You will need the 'dock' for the cables and heater switch.

Both defroster 'heads' and ducts.

The fresh air 'scoop' behind the grille and some 4" ducting.

4" ducting:

http://www.corvettesouth.com/corvette-air-heat-167/air-heat-c1-53-62-173/53-62-c1-heater-defroster-fresh-air-intake-hose-4-4-170001.html

I've never added them as my truck came with them installed, but it's pretty much a 'bolt in' process. I can post some pics if it will help.

Have you found a model 65 yet?

[Jeff Balazs]

Hi Keven;

Happy holidays to you. Thanks I would like some photos.

My truck came with the defroster duct heads below the windshield but that was it. I will have to find all the rest of the stuff.

A defroster feature is a must this time of year in my local. No so much for icing (although some years) but we really have a problem with fogged up windows when it rains. I live in the coastal foothills and have about a 300 to 400 foot elevation drop to get down into town and my shop. Going down that hill the windows always fog up...

Jeff

[B1B Keven]

Hi Keven;

Happy holidays to you. Thanks I would like some photos.

My truck came with the defroster duct heads below the windshield but that was it. I will have to find all the rest of the stuff.

A defroster feature is a must this time of year in my local. No so much for icing (although some years) but we really have a problem with fogged up windows when it rains. I live in the coastal foothills and have about a 300 to 400 foot elevation drop to get down into town and my shop. Going down that hill the windows always fog up...

Jeff

Merry Christmas to you and yours Jeff.

I'll keep my eyes open for you.

Yes, defrost is a must. Where I grew up, the Sacramento Valley tule fog was a killer!

[ggdad1951]

jeff I have both options and would gladly take any pictures you would like me to

[John-T-53]

I don't have any recent "installed" pics, but pics of all the individual pieces, including the heater, before they went in. I had to find all the fresh air parts separately, then found a complete kit as a spare after that.

I was able to get the 4" duct hose at Napa.

I highly recommend the fresh air kit! Makes the defroster work a lot better than the old recirculating heater.

[MBF]

I was wondering about this. The 1950 JA series x firetruck that I bought has no air intake in the firewall, but has a heater with the defroster control on the left side of the dash. I guess this is just to warm and recirculate the air within the cab while in use. Probably wouldn't want anyone that has eaten a breakfast burrito traveling with you when the heat is on. I couldn't find a replacement air intake for the 1 ton, but I found something very similar as a dryer vent at the local hardware store. I just have to make some type of a damper to control the flow of air in the winter. Mike

[Jeff Balazs]

Thanks Guys;

Your input as always is invaluable.

So will any of the truckmaster heaters work? Or is there one that is optimum for the defroster function? Do any of these have a two speed fan or variable speed control? I recently saw a cable controled diverter fitting on ebay which looked to be for the defroster. It may have been a Powerwagon item though.

I would greatly appreciate photos showing the duct hose (particularly the defroster duct) and control cable routing.

Seems like the heater control valve is probably going to be the toughest item to source. I suppose I could cobble something together from Napa type parts that would work if I can't find the real thing.

If any of you have any of the necessary bits and pieces needed to do this installation ....... Imalookin.

As I work towards "recycling" this truck into my daily driver these sorts of creature comfort items will make a big difference in how usable it will actually be.

Thanks again, Jeff

[wallytoo]

jeff,

as far as i know, the heaters are three speed 6-volt. the heaters are more or less the same, with minor changes. the earlier versions have "doors" on the sides and the bottom. later versions don't have three doors, some have two, i believe some have no doors.

also, from the parts schematics, it looks like at least one version has the defroster manifold located on the right side of the heater assembly, while most seem to have the manifold attached to the left side (which seems more practical).

[ggdad1951]

I don't have any recent "installed" pics, but pics of all the individual pieces, including the heater, before they went in. I had to find all the fresh air parts separately, then found a complete kit as a spare after that.

I was able to get the 4" duct hose at Napa.

I highly recommend the fresh air kit! Makes the defroster work a lot better than the old recirculating heater.

interesting, I've never seen the "AIR-OFF" knob, normally just see those as "AIR".

On the output side of the heater the little cable door is a must (defroster control).

My heater has a variable speed control, so it goes from low all the way to full, it's NOT and wasn't the proper control, but I didn't realize that till after paint. But it's cool, there is a light behind the knob that brightens with the fan speed as an indicator.

I also see the control valve for the coolant there....mine cost me over $300!

Jeff, I'll get some pics later today after I wake up and feel human...stupid b-day parties at bars with good beer and even better women!

Edited December 16, 2012 by ggdad1951

[B1B Keven]

Seems like the heater control valve is probably going to be the toughest item to source. I suppose I could cobble something together from Napa type parts that would work if I can't find the real thing.

First pic shows a Land Rover valve I'm considering.

Second is for reference.

Third shows '70's Dodge half ton valve and painted

aluminum dryer ducting.

[ggdad1951]

ok here are a buch of pics for you:

control center:

where the control cables penetrate the firewall

the air valve, still looking for a control cable long enough

grill duct

fluid control valve

my heater control knob is the tannish one, rotary style swtch basically a variable resistance switch

Edited December 16, 2012 by ggdad1951

[ggdad1951]

more, note the passenger side defrost is ABOVE the glove box...a REAL pain to attach the hose! I got all the hose from the Studebaker parts website for the defrost and the fresh air duct

shot from the drivers side towards the passenger side

driver side defrost

about the middle

defrost control

looking up right above the defrost control passenger side of the glove box

driver side of the glove box

[Jeff Balazs]

Thanks Guys;

This is all very helpful. I will have to start gathering all the goodies to do this.

Keven;

I will have to check out that Rover control valve. Just happen to have a really good Rover shop in our complex. It looks like it would do the job just fine.

Mark;

Thanks for all the photos. Which heater do you have? Routing on the defrost ducts looks fun. What type/brand of switch did you use ?

Thanks, Jeff

[ggdad1951]

mine in the truck is a Model 62. The switch was put by someone back in the day, no idea of the make.

[wallytoo]

some pics of the heater installation on mine

first is the heater control dash unit, with the temp knob missing (truck doesn't have the valve on the head, just circulates water all year) the off-white knob is my solution to 12-volt starting, so i don't burn the coil during driving.

the second shows the defroster manifold, located on the driver's side of the heater box. the closest hose routes up over the glove box, the back hose goes to the driver's side defroster vent.

third pic again shows the defroster manifold assembly.

fourth pic shows the duct/assembly behind the front grille.

last pic shows the intake/duct on the firewall. the control cable on mine routes through the same assembly that the temp sender/throttle/choke cables pass through the firewall. i would guess that the temp valve control cable used to run where ggdad showed his coming through the firewall on the driver's side.

[Dodgeb4ya]

The fresh air valve cable length would be shorter with the air valve clocked 90degrees clockwise.

Bob

[JBNeal]

It took me a li'l while to remember where I had seen these installation instructions that Dodgeb4ya had posted in the photo gallery. After looking at MF's firewall installation and these instructions, I went out and took a look at the cabs decorating the yard. Above the body data plate, there are two knock-out holes similar to those on the passenger side for the heater mounting holes. These two holes are for the AIR & TEMP cables. The bulge in the firewall was originally to mount the 802 radio on the B-1s & B-2s, but I don't think the bulge is required in the B-3s & B-4s. I've seen the controls mounted on the left, below the radio location, but also mounted in the center, below the gauges. I've also seen the controls mounted in the dash, flanking the gauges. And then there's the aftermarket heaters, which were sold at dealerships, Western Autos, service stations, etc. I once thought there was only one correct way to install a heater system in these old trucks, but after looking at the variety of ways to install the variety of pieces of equipment, I figgered that as long as the installation is clean, then it's okie dokie

[ggdad1951]

The fresh air valve cable length would be shorter with the air valve clocked 90degrees clockwise.

Bob

that was the way I had it orignally mounted, but had to rotate it (as shown in the instructions) so the cable would not have to pass THRU the coolant hose!

note: the hole pattern for the mounting screws is NOT a square!

[ggdad1951]

It took me a li'l while to remember where I had seen these installation instructions that Dodgeb4ya had posted in the photo gallery. After looking at MF's firewall installation and these instructions, I went out and took a look at the cabs decorating the yard. Above the body data plate, there are two knock-out holes similar to those on the passenger side for the heater mounting holes. These two holes are for the AIR & TEMP cables. The bulge in the firewall was originally to mount the 802 radio on the B-1s & B-2s, but I don't think the bulge is required in the B-3s & B-4s. I've seen the controls mounted on the left, below the radio location, but also mounted in the center, below the gauges. I've also seen the controls mounted in the dash, flanking the gauges. And then there's the aftermarket heaters, which were sold at dealerships, Western Autos, service stations, etc. I once thought there was only one correct way to install a heater system in these old trucks, but after looking at the variety of ways to install the variety of pieces of equipment, I figgered that as long as the installation is clean, then it's okie dokie

My cab has only ONE knock out WAY up top, a cable thru there would interfere with the hood prop arm, hence my choice of firewall penetration location. And I agree, if it looks clean it's fine.

[Dodgeb4ya]

So for 1951-53 the fresh air valve is mounted in a different clocked position than the 1948-50 trucks because of the non square screw hole pattern. My kit instructions are dated 1948 and show the cable being vertically mounted. wallytoo's 48 has the cable mounted horizontally and is not as the directions show on the 1948 kit package instructions in1948. So I guess what ever works is good on these fresh air installations- as long as it works properly and looks good!

Bob.

[Jeff Balazs]

Hi Guy's;

Thanks for all the great photo's, info and insight on this subject.

I know I want to add these features......just have to find the bits without braking the bank. Again if anyone has any of these items they are willing to part with.......I am more than willing to pay a fair price.

I will go see my Rover guy Eddie about the heater control valve and report back.

It may be a less pricey alternative to an original.

Jeff

Here is wishing you all a great Holiday Season!

[ggdad1951]

Jeff, I know someone on here had some (all?) parts they were looking to sell.

I DO have an extra grill piece and a 3 station under dash mount bracket if you are interested.

[wallytoo]

jeff,

i've got a defroster manifold that would seem to go to "passenger" exit style heaters (model 62) like the one ggdad shows. the door is corroded, and is presently stuck in the defrost position (directing air up the hoses, rather than to the cab). a severed cable is still attached to the housing, but i haven't attempted to remove the small set screw that retains it. it looks to me like the unit could be made to operate correctly with a little care and patience.

it came in a box of parts i got with my truck, but my heater is a different one (probably a 61), so i have no use for this manifold.

if you have no luck finding a better one, it's yours for the shipping.

i also discovered that i have a dash control plate - 4 positions - that is rusty. it, too, could probably be salvaged, but i have no need for it, so i've just left it alone. it has the shell of the heater switch still attached to it, but no inner workings of the switch itself. the plate also has two - also somewhat rusty - chrome delete plugs attached to it, so it was used with only two controls. the switch and probably a defrost cable.

again, if you need it as a last resort, it's yours for the shipping.

good luck in acquiring all the parts,

wally

[John-T-53]

interesting, I've never seen the "AIR-OFF" knob, normally just see those as "AIR".

On the output side of the heater the little cable door is a must (defroster control).

My heater has a variable speed control, so it goes from low all the way to full, it's NOT and wasn't the proper control, but I didn't realize that till after paint. But it's cool, there is a light behind the knob that brightens with the fan speed as an indicator.

I also see the control valve for the coolant there....mine cost me over $300!

Jeff, I'll get some pics later today after I wake up and feel human...stupid b-day parties at bars with good beer and even better women!

Mark -

First of all, I like how all your hardware and cables have fresh zinc plating - this is a top notch detail and looks great!

The "AIR-OFF" knob is from a mopar car (got it from Neil Riddle) and was what I could find at the time - I've since found an AIR knob so now the gang of knobs at the dash control pod is all "correct".

I was able to come up with a long cable for the air control valve by adapting a hood release cable I bought at the Car and Truck Shop in Orange, CA. See their catalog, page 29:

http://www.scribd.com/full/96301675?access_key=key-27swkaiy967wyva19b8o

On that subject, I wonder if there's any place out there that can rebuild these bowden cables? It would be great to send in the dash end and get installed any length of wire and sheath on it...anybody have any ideas on this? Or know of a place where cable could be bought in bulk?

Edited December 17, 2012 by John-T-53