I have questions about a cut up 47 truck

[ascinder]

Hello, everyone, I just bought what I believe to be a 1947 WF 32 truck that had been all hacked up into a rat rod. It has the 25" long engine which says T118 and looking in the cross reference is either a 228 or 236 cu inches. Does anyone have more information as far as what would fit on the engine? It seems like there's a lot of aftermarket stuff out there for the 218/230 but does anyone have stuff for these longer engines?

I am also confused about some ratings on the truck. I keep reading about dodge 1-1/2 tons, but there's a data plate on mine that says 13,500 lbs. Now I know these trucks were heavy, but I doubt they weighed 10k all by themselves.

I also am looking for information on bleeding the brakes since mine seem to have a remote vacuum boost canister installed and I've never dealt with one. Also, I think I have the larger brakes and my wheels are the 20-22" size, so I am wondering if those are covered in the maintenance manuals.

Also, for anyone out there, I have a set of fenders I need to get rid of if anyone is looking for them. I am especially willing to trade for some parts. I need: mirrors, interior door panels, one complete wiper set including motor, a headlight chrome trim ring, and the inside part of the glovebox.

[Eneto-55]

Welcome to the forum, and it will be helpful for you to include your location, especially regarding a trade on the fenders.

Neto

[ascinder]

Sorry about that, good point. I am in Reno, NV.

[Young Ed]

Per my job rated conference notes a wf32 is a 1.5 ton truck with a 160" wheelbase. From there they list for codes which include different specs. The highest one shows a maximum gross vehicle weight of 13,500 lbs. To get this payload rating 7.50x20 10ply tires, heavier duty rear springs with auxiliary springs, 9.5in brake booster, frame reinforcements, 3000rpm govenenor. Some of the smaller wfs came with the same stuff. For a cab and chassis with no bed MSRP 1346.35.

[Young Ed]

I need: mirrors, interior door panels, one complete wiper set including motor, a headlight chrome trim ring, and the inside part of the glovebox.

Most of that stuff is the same as the smaller trucks. The mirrors would probably have been on an adjustable arm rather than the fixed ones that my 1/2 ton has. The fixed ones are available new from Roberts as are the glovebox liners. The interior door panels can be made from a variety of materials or you can buy some nice ones from quiet ride. Are you looking for vacuum or electric wipers? If electric 6v or 12v? Oh and which style of headlight ring? Screw at the bottom or a screw with a clamping device?

[ascinder]

Per my job rated conference notes a wf32 is a 1.5 ton truck with a 160" wheelbase. From there they list for codes which include different specs. The highest one shows a maximum gross vehicle weight of 13,500 lbs. To get this payload rating 7.50x20 10ply tires, heavier duty rear springs with auxiliary springs, 9.5in brake booster, frame reinforcements, 3000rpm govenenor. Some of the smaller wfs came with the same stuff. For a cab and chassis with no bed MSRP 1346.35.

So any info about the booster? Sources for parts or a rebuild? What about eliminating it from the system entirely-thoughts? I think it is what is leaking and causing me to have no brakes. The PO disconnected the front brakes completely and I haven't had a chance yet to crack any drums off and see the current status of the shoes or drums. I also think these had larger brakes since they fill out the 20" wheels pretty well. Any leads on where to get these larger parts? Where would this governor be located and what should it look like? I do have 7.50-20 tires up front, but the rears and the spares are 8.25-20s. I can't haul anything with this truck as the PO did some pretty serious(and somewhat scary) things to the frame/suspension/steering.

Most of that stuff is the same as the smaller trucks. The mirrors would probably have been on an adjustable arm rather than the fixed ones that my 1/2 ton has. The fixed ones are available new from Roberts as are the glovebox liners. The interior door panels can be made from a variety of materials or you can buy some nice ones from quiet ride. Are you looking for vacuum or electric wipers? If electric 6v or 12v? Oh and which style of headlight ring? Screw at the bottom or a screw with a clamping device?

Mirror(singular, lol) is adjustable, but the only thing there is the mount. I believe I have vacuum wipers, but I am willing to convert if necessary. I am pretty certain that everything is original 6v equipment. I'd like to change over to 12v so I can run some HID headlamps and install some modern bells and whistles without fighting the electrical all the time. This truck is way too far gone to ever be restored to period specific gear, so I don't feel to bad about modernizing, and anything that comes off will be offered up to anyone trying to keep their rides classic. I'll have to check back on the headlight rings though, all I noticed was that one was missing:D

Here's some pics so you guys(and gals) can see what I'm dealing with:

[Plymouthy Adams]

that truck is afflicted..you got your work cut out for you for sure..do you intend to continue the rat-rod look or are you going to try and clean it up a bit?

[Young Ed]

If you're going 12v the best bet is a pair of retro fit electric wipers. Roberts and VPW both sell them and other places might have them too. The mirror arm that goes in that bracket can be easily made out of some electrical conduit. Cut to length smash both ends flat and drill mounting holes. Buy a mirror head from napa. Dad did that on his 55 IHC. Pretty similar to OEM without the telescoping adjustment. As for the brakes I've never worked on anything that big. I'm sure the shoes can be relined and cylinders rebuilt or sleeved if necessary. I believe you posted on the yahoo 39-47 group those guys should set you straight on the booster. There is at least one guy I know of who had one rebuilt for his 2ton.

Here's mine helping with a little yard work last summer. 1200lbs of bagged dirt in the bed.

[Frank Elder]

Keep the drivetrain & sheet metal and throw the rest of that crap away..........start over.

[ascinder]

I believe you posted on the yahoo 39-47 group those guys should set you straight on the booster. There is at least one guy I know of who had one rebuilt for his 2ton.

Nope, that wasn't me. I'll have to look into that though.

do you intend to continue the rat-rod look or are you going to try and clean it up a bit?

Probably going for a clean rat rod if that makes sense. I'm not going to leave it all rusty and beat up if that's what you're asking. I'd like to maintain the ratrod/lake racer style but have a nice paintjob and probably a bit of an industrial look to it.

Keep the drivetrain & sheet metal and throw the rest of that crap away..........start over.

My intent in this was to just have a vehicle to beat around in. Go to coffee on the weekends, maybe run it down to Hot August Nights once a year. It's really a vehicle to practice working on and trying out new ideas. I already have several other projects so I'm not trying to restore this to factory new. I'd just like to have everything work and be safe. I don't see ditching an already overbuilt system in favor of a weaker one to be to any benefit. I am more concerned with fixing the obvious safety points on this such as brakes and steering.

[Frank Elder]

As long as you are safe and happy:)in that order of course.

[Plymouthy Adams]

well, a clean rat rod to me would be the "look" but with good solid finished welds, nice paint and an overall look of safety designed into the build...most rat rods I stay clear off and I am current with my tetnus shot might I add..some of the welding I see is totally questionable on the majority I see in this area..I know this is not across the spectrum..but sad part is that is the basic impression I seem to always walk away with..I have never seen the "cool" in rust finish..

[BobT-47P15]

How about a nice home made wood flat bed to dress it up just a

tad???? What size diameter are those tires??

[austinsailor]

there is a lot around for that 25" motor. multi carb manifolds, Mallory ignition, tube headers, high compression heads, you can re-grind the cam.

Search the swap meets, Craig's list, the bay - and even ask here.

[Merle Coggins]

Speaking of '47 big trucks... I came across this one yesterday up in central Wisconsin. Sign in the window said, "Hoist works & Engine ran 2 years ago when parked. $1300"

It was pretty rough. It had a plastic gas can tied up onder the cab for fuel supply and the seat bottom was gone. That's just getting started on what I saw on a quick walk around.

Merle

[ascinder]

well, a clean rat rod to me would be the "look" but with good solid finished welds, nice paint and an overall look of safety designed into the build...most rat rods I stay clear off and I am current with my tetnus shot might I add..some of the welding I see is totally questionable on the majority I see in this area..I know this is not across the spectrum..but sad part is that is the basic impression I seem to always walk away with..I have never seen the "cool" in rust finish..

I'm leaning towards something more like this:

and less like this:

I am just looking for the rat rod configuration I would say(chopped, bobbed, bigger skinny wheels, etc), not the decor.

How about a nice home made wood flat bed to dress it up just a

tad???? What size diameter are those tires??

The fronts are 7.50-20 and the rears are 8.25-20 which both come out to be about a 38.5" diameter tire. I would really like to somehow convert them to a "standard" modern 10 bolt semi wheel since you can get aluminum rims for those that run 22.5 radial tubeless tires which I think would be lighter and safer. I'm not a huge fan of wood simply because here in Nevada they tend to get really dried out and crack. Where I live we routinely have huge daily/overnight temperature swings which I'm pretty certain causes this. I was kind of thinking of going with some synthetic wood like trex decking simply for the low upkeep and weatherability.

there is a lot around for that 25" motor. multi carb manifolds, Mallory ignition, tube headers, high compression heads, you can re-grind the cam.

So, any names to look for? Manufacturers? I think the cam might have already been done since the engine has a really nice choppy/lopey rumble to it.

Speaking of '47 big trucks... I came across this one yesterday up in central Wisconsin. Sign in the window said, "Hoist works & Engine ran 2 years ago when parked. $1300"

It was pretty rough. It had a plastic gas can tied up onder the cab for fuel supply and the seat bottom was gone. That's just getting started on what I saw on a quick walk around.

I bet the engine'd start right up. I have a 1967 Nissan Patrol that was sitting for about a year and a half while I was overseas. I charged up the battery, got out the crank, gave the fuel pump a couple pumps and it fired right up the first time out. These old engines are amazing when it comes to that stuff.

Edited June 9, 2012 by ascinder
updated information

[BobT-47P15]

Now, there's a good idea.....the synthetic wood.

Shouldn't be affected by the weather as you mentioned.

It's always a challenge to figure out just what to do with some

of these old vehicles. I ought to be even more interesting when

you get done with it.

[ascinder]

So after a bit of playing with the brakes last night I think the booster may be good, but still have absolutely no pedal feel and saw a small trickle begin to come out of the drivers side rear drum, so probably a bad seal on the cylinder I'm guessing. I have seen some kits up on ebay that come with all new cylinders and a set of lines for the fronts, anybody tried them? And does anybody know for 100% certainty that they will fit the large truck stuff? I would much rather get a rebuild kit for the cylinder if anyone knows where to source one.

[greg g]

Looks like it was set up for dual rear wheels. If it were mine, I would certainly do something about the front end, that looks unsafe. Also I might consider getting rid of some of the rear springs. Especially if you don't plan on loading 10K lbs on the thing.

The vacuum booster should have nothing to do with bleeding the brakes. but you probably need to have the engine running while you do them. There was just a lot of discussion of bleeding so a search will turn that up.

Can;t help you much on the brake parts themselves but most of that heavy duty stuff was designed to take a couple of rebuilds. You might want to look around to see if you have any local shops that deal in commercial and construction equipment and see if they can be sleeved. If you can't find a place like that check google "Kanter".

Make sure you are carefful around those Cowl lights, they are usually removed but they seem to be expensive to replace. Might loose the runing boards maybe.

[ascinder]

Yep, it is set up as a dually, which is what has got me in fits. I am trying to get the wheel off so I can get the drum off so I can try and match up the wheel cylinder. Thats where I'm stuck. The dually lug nuts for the inner wheel have the cone for the inner wheel to seat, then a threaded portion for the other wheel and nut, and then the tip which is a square shank for something to grab to loosen the inner nut. Long story short, I am now trying to track down a 3/4" square lug wrench......oh, and the rear wheel drums are 18" and the fronts 16" so sounds like more oddball

Edited June 9, 2012 by ascinder

[hkestes41]

I would absolutely be redoing that entire front suspension / air bag / airline setup before I even drove it down the driveway. I would also be checking with Vintage Power Wagons http://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/ as a possible source of the brake components.

[ascinder]

I'm really not all that familiar with how the suspension systems on these older vehicles are normally set up. With the axle being pushed way out in front like that(which I'd like to keep) I don't see an IFS setup working out. So I am kind of leaning towards maybe a coilover setup where I'm thinking I would have to tear out the air bag system currently in place and fab up some shock/coil hoops. Does that sound feasable? Any other ideas? I'd like to keep the solid axle, but the steering is just awful. Any thoughts on running some Dana 60 steering knuckles on just a length of straight tubing? I'd also like to extend the nose of the engine compartment to cover up the stuff out in front.

Edited January 18, 2015 by ascinder

[greg g]

The original set up had semi eliptic leaf springs on a full length frame. If you want to keep the look, I would suggest a 1/4 eliptic setup. These appear like half of eliptic spring, attached to brackets or pockets attached to the frame and extending forward to the axle. with that set up most of the ugly components would disappear.

I believe Posies makes a set up that might be adapted or serve as a model for a built to purpose set up for your truck.

[ascinder]

That looks like just the ticket! I'll have to call that Posies place today and see what weight capacity is on those.

[Plymouthy Adams]

what you got reminds me a lot of sliced HAMB