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Posted

I just found out that the speedometer cable runs just between the engine and the firewall a distance of about 2". That is fine if you cable is in but mine is not. How forgiving is it to run the cable down earlier. I can see no way to install the cable from the bottom. The hole is too small to come from the top. My cab is a 52 which differs a bit form the 48 -50 from what I can see on pictures I've been looking at.

These little things sure eat up a lot of time!

Posted

Unless they changed something in '51, the speedo cable should run down the inside of the firewall and exit just right of center between the firewall and front toe board. There'll be a notch there for the cable.

Posted

My '52 doesn't have that notch. It has a hole, dead center the cab. The speedometer end of the cable goes through that hole but the tranny end does not. It is not possible to get to that hole. I think I will just run the cable down the driver's side of the fire wall intrusion. The cable was out when I got the truck, was under the seat. It's in good shape but it should have been installed when I had the engine out. Bummer!!!

Posted

My '52 doesn't have that notch. It has a hole, dead center the cab, about six inches right of the accelerator pedal post. The speedometer end of the cable goes through that hole but the tranny end does not. It is not possible to get to that hole. I think I will just run the cable down the driver's side of the fire wall intrusion. The cable was out when I got the truck, was under the seat. It's in good shape but it should have been installed when I had the engine out. Bummer!!!

Posted

Run a length of stiff wire through the hole and fasten it to the speedo cable, then draw it back through.

Posted

pffftt....who needs a speedo? :P When I was a kid, the cable was broke in the truck and dad just drove. He always said "we're going fast enough to get there when we get there" :cool: Honestly the first time I see my speedo move (gear was broke in the tranny), will be when I drive it in a few weeks.

FWIW my 51 has the notch.

Posted (edited)

Went to the archives: mine has the notches also. Went out to recheck, the floor panel covers part of that second slot so it appears to be a hole. Whatever, only the top of the cable housing can go through. So I will try to put a leader down and pull the cable into place.

Yes, once one knows an old truck, the speedometer becomes an accessory.

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Edited by pflaming
Posted
pffftt....who needs a speedo? :P When I was a kid, the cable was broke in the truck and dad just drove. He always said "we're going fast enough to get there when we get there" :cool: Honestly the first time I see my speedo move (gear was broke in the tranny), will be when I drive it in a few weeks.

FWIW my 51 has the notch.

Yeah just convert your truck to 12 volt and use a GPS instead of a speedometer.

Hank :D

Posted
Went to the archives: mine has the notches also. Went out to recheck, the floor panel covers part of that second slot so it appears to be a hole. Whatever, only the top of the cable housing can go through. So I will try to put a leader down and pull the cable into place.

Yes, once one knows an old truck, the speedometer becomes an accessory.

maybe pop the top floor board up/out so you can get it passed thru.

Posted

I/m enjoying a trout sandwich. I did not wrap up the details under my dash because I did not know what gauges I'd use, had a Ignition switch that neede attention, etc. When I found Kevin it all fell into place. Now to get that speedometer cable in, I had to remove the inspection plate. It surprised me at how much can be serviced with that plate open. The engineers knew what they were doing.

Now the speedmeter, the oil line, a new ignition switch, (the one I took out worked it just doesn't have a key, need one), the new temp line is in so now I just need to make it all pretty.

I had wondered why only only one wire to the gas gauge. The power goes to the gas sender which lets current flow through it to the frame which is the ground wire thus completing the current cycle. Thus the need for the sender to be grounded to the tank and the tank to the frame.

When the fuel tank is full, the sender allows more current to go to the guage, as the fuel decreases the sender shuts down the current flow and the gauge responds accordingly. Really simple once one sees the full picture.

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Posted
Yeah just convert your truck to 12 volt and use a GPS instead of a speedometer.

Hank :D

Something like this? http://www.autometer.com/media_newsarticle.aspx?yr=2012&mo=3&pg=1&aid=124

I rigged a 6v+ to 5v- USB power adapter for my '33 so I can power the smart phone that has a GPS and a map application. No need to go to 12v for that. http://www.ply33.com/Repair/cellphone

Posted
A new ignition switch, (the one I took out worked it just doesn't have a key, need one), the new temp line is in so now I just need to make it all pretty.

Now that you have the old one out take it to a locksmith and get keys made..........that way you will have a "backup" ready to go. Dang, I like spending your money Paul!:eek:

Posted (edited)
Something like this? http://www.autometer.com/media_newsarticle.aspx?yr=2012&mo=3&pg=1&aid=124

I rigged a 6v+ to 5v- USB power adapter for my '33 so I can power the smart phone that has a GPS and a map application. No need to go to 12v for that. http://www.ply33.com/Repair/cellphone

I visited the http://www.ply33.com/Repair/cellphone site. The paragraph below led me to and for under $10 including shipping and decided to order it.

http://www.lightobject.com/DC-to-DC-power-module-step-up-Input-35V10V-Output-12V-125A-New-version-P474.aspx

Postscript and Update (from ply33)

The converter I wrote about above I still have installed in my car and is working well. However a thread on the discussion forum at the AACA web site had a link to a commercial product that is probably better. LightObject.combuilds a tiny module that takes an input voltage of 3.5v to 10v and outputs upto 1.5 amps of regulated 12v power.Check it out. I probably would have tried using this had it existed or if I had known about it when I started my project. It uses a common ground between input and output so you will still need to isolate the output from the input. And you will need to regulate the 12v down to something your cell phone can use but there are lots of 12v to USB adaptors on the market.

Thanks again,

Hank :)

Edited by HanksB3B
Posted

I plan on adding a hidden module w/ on/off switch for powering 12V stuff in my truck like Dennis showed me in his truck. I've heard that Merle has a nice set up for that.

Posted

Yup... I got my 6 to 12 volt convertor from Meyer Electronics out of River Falls, WI. They are currently out of business but looking for partners to carry on his product. http://community.pressenter.net/~cmeyer/

As I recall mine has a maximum 6 amp output. I use it to power my stereo, GPS, and anything else I need to power from a 12v outlet I have installed. I also use the 12v power outlet to power my timing light during tune-ups.

Merle

Posted
Yup... I got my 6 to 12 volt convertor from Meyer Electronics out of River Falls, WI. They are currently out of business but looking for partners to carry on his product. http://community.pressenter.net/~cmeyer/

As I recall mine has a maximum 6 amp output. I use it to power my stereo, GPS, and anything else I need to power from a 12v outlet I have installed. I also use the 12v power outlet to power my timing light during tune-ups.

Merle

aw MAN! I heard your rig was the shnitz!

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