Brakes blew...new adventure!

[54Illinois]

The brake/wheel cylinders blew on my 54 last week. Only the front (as of today). The shoes look good, as does the drum. I have yet to remove the cylinders, but from what I am told, if the insides are pitted, then they cannot be rebuilt? I also thought of buying new from NAPA or another source. I did see these on Ebay. Anyone use these?

Also, the piece with the arrows, do you push in and turn? I read they are locks.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300696705076?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

[Merle Coggins]

Those are your eccentric anchor pins. The arrow points to the high spot of the eccentric cam. These are used for the Major adjustment of your brakes. Basically it adjusts the heal of your shoes to bring them into the correct position for proper brake application. There is a horseshoe clip that needs to be removed to get the shoes off of the anchor pins. The anchor pins stay put.

Merle

Edited April 17, 2012 by Merle Coggins

[Joe Flanagan]

If they're pitted, you can either have them sleeved or just buy new. I bought new from NAPA for another vintage vehicle I have and so far, they've worked great. I got NAPA wheel cylinders for my Plymouth, too, but haven't installed them yet.

[TodFitch]

I had my brake cylinders sleeved in brass by Joe at Sierra Automotive. I'll never have to worry about them developing rust pits again.

Only problem is they came back looking so great that it seemed like I should frame them and hang them on the wall instead of burying them inside the car where no one can see them.

Sierra Specialty Automotive

3494 Chandler Rd.

Quincy, CA 95971

Telephone: +1.530.283.1886

Fax: +1.530.283.4845

email: joe@brakecylinder.com

http://www.brakecylinder.com/

[greg g]

You probably need to read the section on brakes on the host site for this forum. I believe it is under the works in progress (WIP) tab on the left hand side of the page. Lots of good information there about the MOPAR braking system.

[JIPJOBXX]

Take it oft and disassemble them! I would try to clean them up first with a brake cylinder hone. You might be able to save them. That's what they would do back in the good old days.

[54Illinois]

You probably need to read the section on brakes on the host site for this forum. I believe it is under the works in progress (WIP) tab on the left hand side of the page. Lots of good information there about the MOPAR braking system.

You are right. I have three repair books, and none describe how to repair brakes.

[55 Fargo]

Take it oft and disassemble them! I would try to clean them up first with a brake cylinder hone. You might be able to save them. That's what they would do back in the good old days.

thats what I did 6 years later all nwell, especially with dot 5 silicone brake fluid......

[54Illinois]

Well I worked on one side tonight. Rusted lines, cracked hoses. I am going to re-do the brake system. Right now this car body is rough, and I sure do not want to be doing this kind of work when the car is freshly painted, and the body all pretty looking!

[54Illinois]

This red ring comes out, right? I had to blow the piston out with the compressor.

[Young Ed]

That ring is probably the other part of the piston

[54Illinois]

That ring is probably the other part of the piston

That is what I am thinking, but it will not come out.

[Young Ed]

Are you buying new wheel cylinders or trying to have those sleeved? If its stuck that hard I wouldn't even attempt to hone them. If its one of the 1 piston front cylinders air is your best hope.

[54Illinois]

Are you buying new wheel cylinders or trying to have those sleeved? If its stuck that hard I wouldn't even attempt to hone them. If its one of the 1 piston front cylinders air is your best hope.

I already blew the other cup/piston out with air. I thought the same thing about the condition if it is jammed. But the cup/piston was froze to, and the wall looks good.

[james49ply]

After you replace the wheel cylinders on the front, do the back ones too. When completed you will think you have power brakes:D

[flatheadtim]

I already blew the other cup/piston out with air. I thought the same thing about the condition if it is jammed. But the cup/piston was froze to, and the wall looks good.

A couple of tricks..1) instead using pinch off pliers or vise grips on the brake hose try propping the brake pedal down alittle where it closes the ports in the master this will stop the wheel cyl from leaking and saving the lines from pinching them and possible hurting them. 2) also on stuck pistons one can remove one shoe push rod/pin on that stuck piston put the drum back on and step on pedal untill piston is free good to use a helper on this so you can check cyl on each pedal push.

Edited April 19, 2012 by flatheadtim

[yourpc48]

I cleaned up my cylinders about a year ago and havent had any issues with the wheel cylinders. After honing and cleaning up the pistons I lubed em up with some sylglide from napa to keep em from rusting up again and put rebuild kits in. Heres the deal. If you rebuild them like I did and get your kits from napa they have it all wrong in the computer. It says that the front requires 2 kits per side. This is wrong. One kit per side does both cylinders. Also, they list their kits with pictures thankfully. Note that the kit listed for the front lower #UP 201 is actually the rear kit. The upper front and the rear kits are actually the same part number and you will need 2 of these kits total to rebuild all 4 cylinders part# UP 112

Total will be

Front #UP 112 qty 2

Rear #UP 201 qty ? I dont remember if I bought 1 kit per wheel or not but I would have to say 1 per side. Total of 2 kits. Hope this helps.

I am changing my brakes to disk so I am going to sell off my drum stuff. Let me know if you need anything.