POR Epoxy Putty versus PC 7 Epoxy Paste

[55 Fargo]

I am getting set to repair a steering wheel, and many of you have used PC 7 with success, and I am thinking of using the same for my repair.

I have read about POR epoxy putty, and how it is so easy to work with, can spread it with your hands, great for steering wheel and plastic repairs etc.

I am just wondering if anyone has tried both of these products, and what there end reuslt was, and whatmight be the better choice for steering wheel crack repairs......thanx Fred

[Roadkingcoupe]

A professional steering wheel restoration shop I am aware of uses "dental epoxy" and swear by it as the ideal filler material for steering wheels.

[ggdad1951]

I'm doing my truck wheel with the POR steering wheel product kit. Took a little time to get used to, but once I got the hang of it it was super easy to smooth and get where I needed it (all depends on the amount of water on your fingers, need just the right amount). The wheel is sanded and ready for primer & paint, I just haven't had time to get to that yet. I'm happy at this stage with the results.

[55 Fargo]

I'm doing my truck wheel with the POR steering wheel product kit. Took a little time to get used to, but once I got the hang of it it was super easy to smooth and get where I needed it (all depends on the amount of water on your fingers, need just the right amount). The wheel is sanded and ready for primer & paint, I just haven't had time to get to that yet. I'm happy at this stage with the results.

That sounds good, so this stuff is nice and plyable to smooth with fingers.

[greg g]

I used up the odds and ends of several different 2 part epoxy things I had in my garage to work my Studebaker steering wheel. Some PC 7, some JB Weld, some Marine epoxy, and some two part putty stuff for gas tanks.

From what I saw (the thing is in glazing putty and primer awaiting a warm suny day for paint) the 2 parts are all about the same as far as applicaton, working and sanding finishing. though the putty worked easily for filling the deeper cracks.

[40phil41]

I used PC.7 two part epoxy on my '40 Dodge steering wheel. For cracks, I filed a V shape and filled with the PC.7. I filed smooth, sanded and primed with no problems. It has now been about 5 years and still no signs of cracking.

Phil

[55 Fargo]

Okay, have started my steering wheel refurbishment.

I have used a spare wheel, it was broken up pretty bad in the back of the hub.

So far I have about 2 hours into it, I have PC7 epoxied the hub, and worked it out, it needs more massaging yet, as well as the cracks on the wheel itself.

Here are 2 pics....

[claybill]

ROCKWOOD..HERE IS A TIP. BETTER THAN WET FINGERS, USE A SMALL PIECE OF SARANWRAP or plastic food-wrap .....put it over the fresh filler and smooth it into place and form it at same time...saves time and makes it nice and easy. leave the plastic on until dry. then just pull it off...... take your time and build big areas up in a couple layers. roughing each layer as you go.

bill

i have a couple extra wheels.

[pflaming]

Claybill and others: as you can note on the truck side, I'm commited to PC-7. I just worked it in with a putty knife and a paring knife, much like I do with concrete. I found that if I put the tool in lacquer I can sculpt and smooth the surface.

I really PRESSED the puddy into the cracks, worked my way around the wheel and repeated the pressing, then 'cleaned up the surface with a rag dipped into the thinner and let it set. In the attached pic one end of the spoke has been sanded, the hub end is after 12 hrs. Will work the hub this afternoon.

INTERESTING and HELPFUL thread. Thanks

Edited April 17, 2018 by pflaming

[Joe Flanagan]

I used PC-7 on my wheel, too. After application and a little setup time, I dipped a finger in lacquer thinner and smoothed it all out. It worked great and saved me a lot of sanding. I'll use polyester putty on top of that to get out the small imperfections, then a coat of high-build primer. I've heard as many stories of cracks re-appearing as I have of wheels looking good 15 years later, so we'll just have to see what happens.

[Young Ed]

I used PC-7 on my wheel, too. After application and a little setup time, I dipped a finger in lacquer thinner and smoothed it all out. It worked great and saved me a lot of sanding. I'll use polyester putty on top of that to get out the small imperfections, then a coat of high-build primer. I've heard as many stories of cracks re-appearing as I have of wheels looking good 15 years later, so we'll just have to see what happens.

Sadly you can group me in with the starting to crack again already group. I used a 2part epoxy I believe intended for plastics.

[55 Fargo]

ROCKWOOD..HERE IS A TIP. BETTER THAN WET FINGERS, USE A SMALL PIECE OF SARANWRAP or plastic food-wrap .....put it over the fresh filler and smooth it into place and form it at same time...saves time and makes it nice and easy. leave the plastic on until dry. then just pull it off...... take your time and build big areas up in a couple layers. roughing each layer as you go.

bill

i have a couple extra wheels.

Bill I tried your idea, here is the pic

[pflaming]

Saran wrap / wax paper trick: A picture is worth a thousand words. So you must have 'dabbbed' the puddy on the wheel, wraped the wheel in s/w and then formed it to your liking? Question: How did you know how much to put on before you wrapped the wheel. What do you do with the excess when you start to manipulate the wax.

I'm about finished so too late for me, but others might like to know.

[55 Fargo]

Saran wrap / wax paper trick: A picture is worth a thousand words. So you must have 'dabbbed' the puddy on the wheel, wraped the wheel in s/w and then formed it to your liking? Question: How did you know how much to put on before you wrapped the wheel. What do you do with the excess when you start to manipulate the wax.

I'm about finished so too late for me, but others might like to know.

Not sure I did it right, but the cracks are mostly filled, there is excess, I will carefully sand off.

I think I would use lacquer thinner, next time, just pack the cracks with the PC7 let set a bit, and wipe over with lacquer thinner on fingers or a rag.

I will get this wheel done, just slower than I figured. I hope to shoot paint on her by Saturday night.

My 47 Chrysler wheel will be a breeze compared to this 1, as it only has a few cracks, and they are nice and wide. Its those multiple fine cracks that are a beatch. To be honest the super fine cracks I am not even worried about, shooting on enamel, being a thicker paint might fill those very fine cracks.......

[pflaming]

I found that if you spray the wheel with electronic cleaner, or starter fluid,a lot of hairline cracks will appear. Seems it 'cleans' them out! Also there were a number of such cracks in the 'rings' of the outer ring. To fill those would mean to make a large crevice. Like you, I decided that one has to draw the line. They are just visible in the attachments. I figure the primer and paint will cover them. If not, well. . . the is an original patina truck, so we'll see.

Edited April 17, 2018 by pflaming

[55 Fargo]

Hey all, I played with this steering wheel about 5 hours or so.

I could have spent a lot more time, filled more on the lines and cracks, to perfect this job. I currently do not have the time and patience to spend all this time. I did find the steering wheel , to be hadrer to sand and do filler work, than on a cars body, much smaller, and my hands can attest to this.

I would however use the apply the PC7 let set a bit, then use a rag or fingers with lacquer thinner to smooth out all areas with the epoxy, to really smooth things, and to help force the epoxy into the lines and cracks. I think a good 2 k polyester glaze w could be used to finalize before paint.

I shot my steering wheel with Gloss Black Rustoleum, cut with Dupli-color medium speed reducer, and a shot of Evercoat DQI gloss hardener.

I then shot it on with my elcheapo HF type gravity feed hvlp spraygun, it went on well, a little big for this job but okay.

Here are the pics, not perfect by no means, but 100% better than it was, the hub had 2 big chunks broken off, and every spoke joint was cracked open...

[BobT-47P15]

Looks good from here, Fred.

[pflaming]

Since this is an 'epoxy' thread. Here is another challenge. My dash hoods are made of 'plastic'. Some of the outer surface has pealed off/ chipped off. Will one of these expoxies work to put on a new finish?

Edited April 17, 2018 by pflaming

[55 Fargo]

Since this is an 'epoxy' thread. Here is another challenge. My dash hoods are made of 'plastic'. Some of the outer surface has pealed off/ chipped off. Will one of these expoxies work to put on a new finish?

Why not, should be easier to work with, prep,fill shape and sand, repeat to perfection, primer and paint

[Joe Flanagan]

From the photo it looks like epoxy would be too heavy for that repair. I would use Evercoat's two part polyester putty. It spreads thinly, which looks like what you need for that dash. It's also very sandable. If you make a mistake you can either sand it off or add more.

[1940plymouth]

I used JB Weld on my steering wheel, it has held up for about 15 years or so

[OldDad67]

I used PC.7 two part epoxy on my '40 Dodge steering wheel. For cracks, I filed a V shape and filled with the PC.7. I filed smooth, sanded and primed with no problems. It has now been about 5 years and still no signs of cracking.

Phil

I like to take a Dremel tool and with a small burr clean out the cracks to remove dirt, grease and whatever might have worked it's way into the cracks. Then I take the burr and undercut the crack, and then put small depressions into the side of the cracked area to retain the epoxy, then a good primer and then a 2 part Urethane paint. Never have to worry about the expoxy not holding.

[55 Fargo]

I like to take a Dremel tool and with a small burr clean out the cracks to remove dirt, grease and whatever might have worked it's way into the cracks. Then I take the burr and undercut the crack, and then put small depressions into the side of the cracked area to retain the epoxy, then a good primer and then a 2 part Urethane paint. Never have to worry about the expoxy not holding.

Hey I agree with this method. But n the truck wheels where there are hairline cracks every inch, with many in a row, this becomes a major operation.

On my 47 Chrysler wheel, there are some cracks, but not like my truck wheels, having 6 cracks on the wheel compared with 25 or 30, is not bad to deal with.

On the truck wheel that I just repaired, the base of the wheel hub was all cracked, 2 big chunks fell out, all spoke joints had a big crack.

I dunno, wheels like this need a recast, to be nice, or if someone is will to spend a lot of time, it coild be done using your method, and slowly filling and building up all the grooves crack and lines.

So I dida quicky job to et her looking half decent, and will live with it.

I do know VPW sells NOS wheels for $130 and $150, they look lik mine, but not sure if they would fit, for that price versus a major amount of time, it would bea bargain.

Here are the pics of the SW back in the truck....

[pflaming]

Like Rockwood I had many hairline cracks on the wheel indentations. We put marks in concrete to control where they would be, these indentations do the same thing. I laid a hack saw on each crack, zero pressure to clean them, which worked. Then I hit them with an air hose and finally starter fluid or electrical cleaner. It was then that I noticed them. I tried to fill them too but just too ooo small so if they show after all is painted, well, that's called character.

My wheel isn't perfect but few will be critical. One more coat today, then several coats of clear.

[pflaming]

I may have a professional put on a final coat and I may have the ring chromed, but this will have to do for now. I kept having an overspray problem, I'd get one area to look good but it's difficult not to overspray on the opposite side of the spokes, for example. Well, so it is.

I still wish I knew what that space in the steering shaft is for. (See previous post).

Edited April 17, 2018 by pflaming