Just Starting

[Plymouthy Adams]

I would only be somewhat interested in the product as a means to arrest/slow down areas that you cannot access during repair...like inside rockers, door and quarter panel frame compartments etc etc..any surface you can access should be properly handled in a more conventional method..these products can lead to a very high build intermediate surface that hinders ones ability to achieve an effective smooth topcoat without a lot of effort...this product also requires multiple application...user beware..no real silver bullet for rust..

Edited November 27, 2013 by Plymouthy Adams

[52b3b Joe]

For the way you are going, I'd just wire wheel it the best you can. At work, for the hard to reach areas we use a needle scaler which works good. Put some epoxy primer on and forget about it. You may just want to put POR-15 on after wire wheeling instead. On my truck I sandblasted it myself, but I had access to equipment to do it. 

[HanksB3B]

Just call me Rusty,

 

 

I'm thankful I wasn't the one holding the button and My frame appears to be a whole lot less subjected to the elements in Southern California.

Spend your money wisely and spend your time efficiently.  

 

Hank   

Edited November 28, 2013 by HanksB3B

[RobRobitaille]

I tried an aggressive wire brush on a grinder it cleaned up well and fairly quick in my test patch so I think I will go this rout.

 

 

I read on here somewhere before about a clutch place people where using to get 10" clutch to fit their T5's but cant find it now can anyone give me the name and contact info?

 

Thanks Rob 

[Don Coatney]

This might or might not help

 

[RobRobitaille]

That's the place I was looking for I hope they are willing to ship.

 

Thanks

[RobRobitaille]

Hey

 

Tennessee Clutch is going to make me a 10`` clutch with S10 spline and ship it to me at a reasonable cost!!

 

But I got my local Dodge place to look up all the spring shackle bushings and pins and the engine mounts WOW what a price!!! they Want $650

 

Anyone got any of these part # for Napa or somebody? I don't want to pay that kind of money if I don't have to!!

 

I see Roberts is much cheaper but shipping across the border has bitten me before with the customs charges!

 

Thanks

Edited December 2, 2013 by RobRobitaille

[geopcanuk]

Well I got the T5 mounted this afternoon the old pilot bushing gave me some grief. I find it amazing just how much the T5 looks like it belongs there. There is a guy with a shop about 45 min from my place he calls Dodge City I think I will go see him about the bell housing and engine mounts. I want everything to be sitting in the right place before I put the explorer rear diff in so that I can get the pinion angle matched up as good as I can.

 

Also are drag links available or is there a way to put new ends on?  

Didn't think that Dodge City was still open,...seen a big for sale sign driving by.3 of us members are nearby...Brooklin,Stouffville and Port Perry PM me if you have any questions.

[RobRobitaille]

Didn't think that Dodge City was still open,...seen a big for sale sign driving by.3 of us members are nearby...Brooklin,Stouffville and Port Perry PM me if you have any questions.

I didn't go there but they answered the phone

[1952B3b23]

What year and model is your truck? I have a 52 B3b and got my new shackles from a place called "rare parts" in California. I just googled there website got the number and called them up and they hooked me up with the right parts. I believe I payed about $70 for each shackle. Napa auto parts also had the shackles made by rare parts, they carried king pins for my truck too. Also if you're looking for new leaf springs I got mine from St. Louis spring. Hope that helps.

[RobRobitaille]

Disk Brake bracket looks good and the calipers rotor and pads to go with it were cheap. The only thing that's kinda a problem with this kit is you need to turn down the hub to fit it the rotor. But I prefer to do that and have the proper bearings for the spindle.

[Merle Coggins]

Who's disc brake kit are you using?

[RobRobitaille]

Scarebird he was the only one who would send me the instructions and parts list before I bought the kit. And you just drill out the rivets holding your drum to the hub and reuse the hub you can use the original bearings if you choose to.

Edited December 8, 2013 by RobRobitaille

[RobRobitaille]

Made an order from Roberts. New shackles and pins, King Pins, Tie rod ends, Motor and Cab mounts.

 

Tennessee Clutch shipped my clutch disk today (If you need a clutch call them great price even with shipping)

 

Got a guy that will turn my front hubs to fit the rotors for the front disk conversion Jan 2 when he gets back(no charge)

 

I hope all this stuff comes in before the holidays it will keep me busy!

[RobRobitaille]

There were a couple clearance issues but a little minor grinding took care of them!

 

Also Tennessee Clutch If you need a clutch call them mine came in quick and looks great. Price was very reasonable!! 

Edited December 23, 2013 by RobRobitaille

[RobRobitaille]

Ok so I did a bit of work this afternoon. I had a thin soft spot in the frame where the rubber bump stop mounts to the frame on the rear drivers side. I got some 1/8"th plate. and fish plated the soft spot and only welded horizontal. Did not weld vertical on the frame as most of the reserch I did said that would result in a crack. then I boxed a 16" section of the frame to reinforce it. Anyone see any major issues with this approch. I will be doing the other side to match.

[1952B3b23]

Ok so I did a bit of work this afternoon. I had a thin soft spot in the frame where the rubber bump stop mounts to the frame on the rear drivers side. I got some 1/8"th plate. and fish plated the soft spot and only welded horizontal. Did not weld vertical on the frame as most of the reserch I did said that would result in a crack. then I boxed a 16" section of the frame to reinforce it. Anyone see any major issues with this approch. I will be doing the other side to match.

 

I did just about the same thing that you did for boxing over the rear axle humps, dont see a problem with it. I didnt have to weld any additional pieces of steel to the inside of the rail like you cause my frame was not soft there. One thing i did differently was that i cleaned the inside area of the frame that was going to be covered by the boxing plate and gave that a good coat of primer and gloss black paint. I also used a weld thru primer on the edges that were going to be welded. For the boxing plate i also painted the side facing the frame rail with primer and black paint and taped of the edges that would be welded. After the primer and paint dried on the rest of the plate i sprayed the weld thru primer on the edges and then welded it up. You may still be able to shoot some paint behind there to try and keep the rust at bay.

 

Looks good,

 

-Chris

 

PS- you had posted about a drag link awhile back, i know NAPA has them for my 52 B3b. They're pricey at $324 but they are made by Rare Parts which is a good quality USA manufacturer. Ive used there shackles for my front and rear suspension and they seem to be very good, havent driven the truck yet to really test them out. The drag link may be expensive but in my opinion using a cheap quality product on something as crucial as steering isnt a good idea. 

Edited January 20, 2014 by 1952B3b23

[Dave72dt]

If the soft spot had holes through it, it should have been cut out and replaced. Angle cutting the ends is a way to get away from the right angle cut that may develop a crack.   Layered steel is an invitation for rust buildup between the layers.  I'd try to get some seam sealer on the ends of the fishplate.  Cutting out the soft spot, replacing it and then boxing it past the soft spot would have been very adequate, no fish plate needed and no double layer to for potential rust.  Even cutting the soft spot out and welding the patch in on both sides would work in that area.  There's not much frame flex with cross members so close on both sides of it.  JMO  

[RobRobitaille]

Thanks Chris & Dave

I did use some rattle can primer and paint inside the frame and plan so soak it inside there with rustproofing oil undercoating once fished. I was hoping somone would give me some advice before I started the other side.

Edited January 20, 2014 by RobRobitaille

[1952B3b23]

Very good point Dave on the layering of the steel. I forgot to mention in my first post that i didnt have to weld any additional pieces of steel inside the rail. I just boxed that portion of the frame like you did. I agree that frame flex in that area should be minimal because of the two cross members on either side. The flex will be even less now that its boxed.

 

-Chris

[pflaming]

We oft forget that in the '50's these were used as TRUCKS, were driven on 'wash board' roads when loaded, and 'rolled' on hard rayon tires. Even yet, most did not crack until the rust go to them. We now drive on paved roads on radial tires and call a couple sheets of plywood or a sack of pet food a 'load'. 

[1952B3b23]

We oft forget that in the '50's these were used as TRUCKS, were driven on 'wash board' roads when loaded, and 'rolled' on hard rayon tires. Even yet, most did not crack until the rust go to them. We now drive on paved roads on radial tires and call a couple sheets of plywood or a sack of pet food a 'load'. 

 

Couldnt have said it any better Paul, that is so true. Im sure that these old truck frames have seen there fair share of abuse and overloading. I know my truck wont ever haul much more than a couple lawn chairs and a case of wobbly pops.

 

-Chris 

[1952B3b23]

Just a note on the drag link you said you wanted to get, buy it directly from Rare Parts instead of through NAPA or some other autoparts store. It'll be less expensive that way. I saved about $50 that way.

-Chris

[RobRobitaille]

Just a note on the drag link you said you wanted to get, buy it directly from Rare Parts instead of through NAPA or some other autoparts store. It'll be less expensive that way. I saved about $50 that way.

-Chris

Thanks I looked it up it is the cheapest I have seen so far.

[RobRobitaille]

Hi everyone. Been a long time since I posted. Life got busy and the old dodge got put in the back drive shed to wait. Planning on pulling it back out soon with a plan to get it road worthy. (Not completely finished). Have a bit of a budget to work with now.