tonkaman Posted February 19, 2012 Report Posted February 19, 2012 (edited) hey all i just picked up this old girl from the local scrap yard. i just couldnt let her die. and for only 400 bucks how could i go wrong!!! any way im not sure what year it is or how to tell. the ID tag says its a B3 im pretty sure its a ton and a half correct me if im wrong. it turns over good and has spark but the number six and three cylinders have no compression, stuck valves im assuming. so that being said what is the best remedy for a stuck valve without pulling the head? also i need a carb kit for a carter E7T1 carb, where is the best place to get a kit? any info on this old girl is greatly appreciated. it was really cool, i tried to get her to fire up at the scrap yard and when i hooked up the battery the old AM radio came right on and started singing to me. kinda reminded me of when Arnie jumped in Christine for the first time...... it was sorta special if you know what i mean. Edited February 19, 2012 by tonkaman pictures were messed up Quote
ggdad1951 Posted February 19, 2012 Report Posted February 19, 2012 (edited) from the grill and doors I'd say 1951+ the data plate will tell you the tonnage. B3_ where the _ will denote the code for tonnage. Good save for $400! Edited February 19, 2012 by ggdad1951 Quote
wayfarer Posted February 19, 2012 Report Posted February 19, 2012 Looks good! What are the plans?? Quote
B1B Keven Posted February 19, 2012 Report Posted February 19, 2012 Welcome! Good place for carb. parts: http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Carter_BB_Carburetor_Repair_Kit_p/1142.htm Quote
pflaming Posted February 19, 2012 Report Posted February 19, 2012 By the dash and the grill its a 52/53. Must have been a delux model: arm rest, radio, ashtray, cigarette lighter, door upholstery. Nice find. Quote
rustyzman Posted February 19, 2012 Report Posted February 19, 2012 Welcome. Looks a bit like mine did when I got it. Close to the same color, grill guard, etc. I know what you mean about the special moment. Some things are just meant to be. You can get to the valves through the valve covers under the manifolds. Pop them off and start PB Blaster-ing the valves through the stems and springs. You may also try shooting them through the spark plug holes with a long nozzle pointed at the open valves. It will likely take some love taps to get them to move, if they will do it at all. tap carefully, don't want to unseat the spring and have the keepers fall out. Be patient, it may take some time. If they are corroded in place, the valve faces may not seal even if you get them free, but give it a shot. My engine was frozen when I got is and it took a bit of time and effort to get it going. Burns some oil now and smokes. Rebuild is in the future plans. Quote
MBF Posted February 19, 2012 Report Posted February 19, 2012 Welcome to the madness. That is one hell of a find! The price is unbelievable too. What a great platform to start from. I've seen these flatties stick exhaust valves so tight from sitting that the guide had to be d reset, and then replaced. I don't mean to be a pessimist, but you may end up pulling the head. Spray liberally at the center of the valve through the plug hole. If I remember, the quide protrudes slightly above the bottom of the port. What doesn't go on the stem will end up running out the port to the manifold. While you're working on each valve, make sure the lifter is in a position that will allow the valve to return to the seat so that you don't waste time tapping on a valve that the lifter is at the top of the lobe -you'll need to pull the side covers to do that. Depending on how long she's been sitting, and what the humidity was will determine what you've got to do. You've still got a great starting point, and it sounds like she's trying to meet you halfway! Please keep us posted. Mike Quote
Rusty O'Toole Posted February 19, 2012 Report Posted February 19, 2012 (edited) Wow that's a lot of truck for $400 bucks! Looks in decent shape too, not all beat up and rotted out. Edited February 20, 2012 by Rusty O'Toole Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted February 20, 2012 Report Posted February 20, 2012 I'm guessing a B3HA 170"WB. If front drums were 16" it's a JA-also frame doesn't look reinforced. Cannot tell:confused: Quote
HanksB3B Posted February 20, 2012 Report Posted February 20, 2012 Looks like it's "all there" and even has the original Bullseye Headlights. Nice find! Welcome, Hank Quote
tonkaman Posted February 20, 2012 Author Report Posted February 20, 2012 holy information, thanks guys i really appreciate all the help, the tag reads B3HA170 so "dodgeb4ya" you were spot on. as of right now i just want to get her runnin again and cleaned up so we can use her around the yard to haul word or whatever, but maybe someday ill give her a good freshening up. i wasnt really a pilot house fan before this truck, im more in to the old flatfender power wagons but i just coldnt let this one get smushed it was to nice. so where is the best place to get a carb kit for a carter E7T1? Quote
Dave72dt Posted February 20, 2012 Report Posted February 20, 2012 Go back up to post # 4. He's got it looked up for you. click on the link. Quote
Young Ed Posted February 20, 2012 Report Posted February 20, 2012 Its not a big deal to pull the head. For just a yard truck you can even reuse the head gasket. I get my carb kits at napa so your local auto parts place should be able to handle it. Quote
Dave72dt Posted February 20, 2012 Report Posted February 20, 2012 Those two trucks in the background looked interesting. What can you tell us about them? Quote
Todd B Posted February 20, 2012 Report Posted February 20, 2012 I'm guessing a B3HA 170"WB. If front drums were 16" it's a JA-also frame doesn't look reinforced. Cannot tell:confused: What do you mean?? My JA has 8.25x20. Do I have a misfit?? Todd B Quote
Dave72dt Posted February 20, 2012 Report Posted February 20, 2012 What do you mean?? My JA has 8.25x20. Do I have a misfit??Todd B 16" drums, not wheels Quote
Rusty O'Toole Posted February 20, 2012 Report Posted February 20, 2012 You can reuse a head gasket if it is not burned out or blown. Be careful not to bend it when you take it off. Soak it in hot water and spray it with silver paint and put it back on the same way it came off, if it didn't leak before it won't leak. Quote
tonkaman Posted February 20, 2012 Author Report Posted February 20, 2012 (edited) Go back up to post # 4. He's got it looked up for you. click on the link. hahahaha thats funny i dint catch the link until you posted this, i actually just ordered that kit from mikes carbs then seen your post. I have two other dodge truck 6's in the back yardthat i removed from a couple old grain trucks, on e 1939 and a 1945 i belive. i think one is a 237 and the other a 251 if i remember correctly. the 251 has a spitfire head on it, do yu think this head would fit the pilot house engine i havent ID'd the pilot house engine yet. as for the valves i think i would be better of to remove the head to free them up, at least that way i can see the contdition of the engine and remove carbon buildup. it only has like 9500 miles on it so it should be in good shape. as for the two in the back ground, the one is a 54 power wagon i picked up from a local farmer that i want to restore in the next few years after i finish the current father son project. the other is a 40 dodge half ton that im parting out, so if you need anything..... the current money pit / father son project Edited February 20, 2012 by tonkaman Quote
Dave72dt Posted February 20, 2012 Report Posted February 20, 2012 Looks like your money was well spent. Do you have the color code for the red paint? Quote
tonkaman Posted February 20, 2012 Author Report Posted February 20, 2012 Looks like your money was well spent. Do you have the color code for the red paint?[/QUOTthanks yes i do, and no you cant have it. hahaha just kidding its not the original dodge color, i belive it was UNO 7878 gaurds red also i want to put a set of points in the dizzy while im getting her freshened up, is there a model number or anything on the dizzy that i need, i was gonna just go try NAPA for the points unless you guys have a better source for those. oh and what should the gap be on my points? Quote
Dave72dt Posted February 20, 2012 Report Posted February 20, 2012 NAPA works for the points as would other parts houses. Gap is .017 or .020 depnding on dist #. On the banner on the top of the page will be Visit DPETCA. Hit that, find "pilots Knowledge",. In that section you 'll find 49-50 something truck repair manual. It has a list of dist.# and the specs for each. As far as the color, were you trying to match the original or just a color you liked? I'm asking because as far as I know, no company has a direct cross reference for the Dodge factory red. Quote
Young Ed Posted February 20, 2012 Report Posted February 20, 2012 Bring your dist # with you. It will be something like IAT4001, IGSxxxx etc. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted February 20, 2012 Report Posted February 20, 2012 As far as the color, were you trying to match the original or just a color you liked? I'm asking because as far as I know, no company has a direct cross reference for the Dodge factory red. you (and now I) have probably about as close as anyone! Quote
tonkaman Posted February 20, 2012 Author Report Posted February 20, 2012 ok sweet deal, no we just wanted a red that really popped, something that yelled "HEY YOU, LOOK AT ME!!!!" when it was driving by. Quote
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