Painting in the Red

[carmen142]

Hello Guys

Tell me how do you paint in the red after you had the part chromed? For example the Hub Caps or even parts of the front and rear bumper have red stripes in them. I just cant seem to firgure it out.

Thanks

Carmen

[1940plymouth]

I used nail polish that was close to the exact color, using the applicator that came with the nail polish. A slow steady hand. I am sure there is a better way but this worked for me

[pflaming]

This is what I did, I very carefully with a ballpoint pen marked and pressed in where I needed to carve out the tape, then a VERY sharp exacto I carefully removed where i wanted the red to be. Then I pressed down again the edges of the tape to reduce bleeding. I then waited five days to be certain that paint was dry. I'm pleased.

Edited October 16, 2017 by pflaming

[55 Fargo]

I used Testors red paint, thinned it a bit, then used a nice fine tippped brush and did all the red, it turned out okay.

Some guys have used spraybombs, and wiped excess with lacquer thinner, right afterward.

I have seen paint pens, not sure how well they would do the job.

Anybody have a super idea on this particular job, speak up if you do.....

[T120]

A method I've used with reasonable results,If there is still a reasonably sharp relief between the part to be painted and the surrounding chrome,although I'm sure there are better methods,as follows -

1. Clean the area to be painted with acetone or lacquer thinner and let dry

2. Use rattle can paint of the desired colour and spray the part,keeping in mind that the overspray will be removed and to avoid waste paint and extra work

"roughly" masking off the surrounding areas where the paint is not required.

3. When the paint is dry to the touch(not long after),moisten a cloth in solvent,(not soaking nor dripping), and using the moistened cloth wrapped around your trigger finger gently and carefully remove the unwanted paint (overspray) around the relief leaving the colour where desired.

Edited January 28, 2012 by Ralph D25cpe

[Bingster]

I'd agree with Ralph's method but I'd apply a primer prior to the topcoat. I know we're only dealing with a small area but applying a gloss enamel over chrome isn't going to give much of a bite. Wait till the red is done and use the solvent method to wipe away both costs of excess. Make certain the enamel red is fully cured.

Also, note that a lot of rattle can paints say to apply a second coat within an hour or after 24. This means that if you do use a primer, I'd wait the 24 before applyiing the red.

[T120]

Another note, on one occasion where I seemed to have a problem getting a clean line on an edge I used a razor blade from a Red Devil window scraper to remove a bit of excess paint.It didn't scratch the chrome..

Edited January 28, 2012 by Ralph D25cpe

[Plymouthy Adams]

I use thinner moistened Q-tip..the long wooden ones that are wrapped tight for removing my over spray from the higher relief areas..makes for some really super cut lines especially on the smaller emblems and such..in my opinion, spraying leaves a much better overall look

[Robert Horne]

I used nail polish that was close to the exact color' date=' using the applicator that came with the nail polish. A slow steady hand. I am sure there is a better way but this worked for me[/quote']

This is my method also, except I have my Sister do it. She is always

painting her finger nails, and toe nails, so she has alot of experience.

[Frank Elder]

I'd agree with Ralph's method but I'd apply a primer prior to the topcoat. I know we're only dealing with a small area but applying a gloss enamel over chrome isn't going to give much of a bite. Wait till the red is done and use the solvent method to wipe away both costs of excess. Make certain the enamel red is fully cured.

Also, note that a lot of rattle can paints say to apply a second coat within an hour or after 24. This means that if you do use a primer, I'd wait the 24 before applyiing the red.

While I understand that primer is essential on a bare metal paint job how does it apply to these applications?

Surely you are not scuffing up the chrome to allow the primer to bite are you? If there isn't a scuffed surface primer doesn't work any better than the base coat. Primer won't magically adhere to a chrome surface any better than regular paint, it seems like a wasted step to me.

I would rather repaint the piece 10 times than mar the chrome and cause future pitting.

[40P10touring sedan]

I just redid my 40 plymouth sedan trunk badge and found out quickly that it the paint wasn't applied in big batches one wound up with brush marks, so I grabbed a paint bulb used for transfering paint to apply my paint in big amounts...think of it as an eye dropper but all thin plastic.

I just filled the bulb, touched where I need that paint, squeezed alittle and dragged as I went along until it was filled. I'm at 3 coats now to fill the badge evenly and high enough for my liking. I'll clear lacquer coat when it's done.

[greg g]

You can get a fiber glass scratch pen at auto body shop supply stores. This has several strands of stiff fiberglass in what looks and works like a ball point pen. You use it to create some tooth on the chromed pieces. This will give whatever paint you choose a better grip agaist the chrome.

A NOTE OF CAUTION. Using the pen frees up very small strands of very irratation fibre glass strands. Wear disposable gloves, safety glasses, a dust mask, and what ever you do do not contact your eyes, nose, mouth or other sensitive body parts while any of these pieces are around. A session with the shop vac after the roughing process will clean up the irratant.

These are also available at some Craft and Hobby places.

[mossback44]

A method I've used with reasonable results,If there is still a reasonably sharp relief between the part to be painted and the surrounding chrome,although I'm sure there are better methods,as follows -

1. Clean the area to be painted with acetone or lacquer thinner and let dry

2. Use rattle can paint of the desired colour and spray the part,keeping in mind that the overspray will be removed and to avoid waste paint and extra work

"roughly" masking off the surrounding areas where the paint is not required.

3. When the paint is dry to the touch(not long after),moisten a cloth in solvent,(not soaking nor dripping), and using the moistened cloth wrapped around your trigger finger gently and carefully remove the unwanted paint (overspray) around the relief leaving the colour where desired.

I just painted all the emblems and scripts on my '47 Plymouth convertible following the same method Ralph D25cpe outlined. This method is much quicker than precisely masking prior to painting (which I've done previously) and produced a better result for me. As mentioned by someone else, it does require a sharp break at the edge of the painted area to get a clean line when you wipe of the overspray. If you don't have that, you'll have to use the good blue masking tape and an x-acto knife.

To address the problem of sticking to the shiny chrome, I used the new Rustoleum spray paint which contains its own primer.

[Bingster]

There are primers made that can adhere to glass. If you think about it for a moment, when gloss enamel dries on metal, it is a slick gloss surafce (paint) on smooth metal.

A flat primer - any flat paint - is chemically different that gloss, and the flat paint has a much better adhesion rate than the gloss.

Maybe it is splitting hairs. Wonder how the factory did it?

[Frank Elder]

There are primers made that can adhere to glass. If you think about it for a moment, when gloss enamel dries on metal, it is a slick gloss surafce (paint) on smooth metal.

A flat primer - any flat paint - is chemically different that gloss, and the flat paint has a much better adhesion rate than the gloss.

Maybe it is splitting hairs. Wonder how the factory did it?

Well if it works on glass......it sure would work on chrome, Thank you for the info Bingster!