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Posted

I am makeing cardboard patterns for the final lap of insulating/sound proofing my cab. I do NOT have the corner windows. I have a nice picture of a cab like mine in a great red color and grey seat covers showing the silver insulation AND his seat belt attached up in the corner. It is attached to the upper inner frame, to which the 'cardboard' is attached. My question is: How should that bolt be attached. Is a large washer sufficient or a nice piece of metal or either.

Getting close. Not too many pictures of 'corner less' cabs with the final 'upholstery'. Lots of work, tedious but getting there with the help of Advil.

Posted

Paul

Hopefully your taking lots of pictures of your insulating and interior. Looking forward to seeing what you've done and how you did it. I would like to do the same to mine this summer. :)

Tom

Posted

Either will work, the plate would be better. It's used to spread the load out so less chance of the bolt pulling through.

Posted

Tom, It's not a brain job but I found it very difficult to take a measurement and then return with a fit. SO. . . I went to a corruagator in town and got 80" x 54" cardboard sheets. They alway have lots of these and I started to make patterns. It really helped. Takes a GOOD exacto, they get dull fast on paper. I now have the back wall with the window pattern and the two pieces above the doors, those are a bit tricky. Will do the headliner tomorrow.

I just got a new battery for my camera, so will be documenting tomorrow. Now looking for some "masonite" or whatever for the final surface.

The firewall is the worse part, not unlike working under the sink. Put a GOOD thick blanket down on the floor and a pillow, really helps.

I cut and pasted a number of photos of other's interiors and referred to them many times. VERY HELPFUL!

I still do not know if glueing the rubber to the metal reduces more noise by eliminating the metal viabrations. I have'nt done the final attaching yet.

Final note: I once had the floor board out. I could have covered that so much easier then than now. Tip to the wise!

Edit: Thanks Dave, will make one up. What size is the hole 3/4" ??

Posted

I am in the process of putting the finishing touches on mine. I started out last weekend making a corrugated template for the roof and side panels, and transferred that to 1/4" luan. I was concerned after all this work that the corrugated would start sagging. I used an aerosol contact cement to attach a piece of black vinyl to my patterns. I used 1/4" for foam for my door panels a couple of year ago which are holding up nicely. I need to redo the back of the cab around the rear window. I used the foam backing on that, but since the back portion of the roof panel is supported by the rear panel, it needs to have some structural support. My solution doesn't look 100% original, but it looks nice, and along with the dynamat that I used lowers the decibels by about half. I'll post more pics when I finish with the rear panel. Mike

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Posted

Is that luan or corrugated in the first picture. Are you using corrugated as your final finish? That headliner looks very, very good. I will post pics soon. Nice to have 'partner'.

Posted

Another headliner pattern idea. I used expanded metal in my 3 window cab. All four pieces easily come out as the original and install as stock but will never sag or warp.Quite a bit of work but tight and quiet too.

Bob

Posted (edited)

Great pattern idea, WOW! That is better than Detroit! What did you use for your final finish. Is that a fabric or something you painted. I like the way you finished your corners, that is hard to do without something like you did. :):):)

Fowler & Dodge4: Did you guys relocate your interior lights, mine is in the middle of the cab.

Edited by pflaming
Posted (edited)

The pic on the left is with the roof luan w/o the vinyl-final fitting before I glued on the vinyl. The 2nd picture is with the finished panel in place w vinyl. When I redo the rear panel, I'll leave the domelight centered over the rear window. I've got a door pocket attached underneath the rear window to hold vintage maps, and my logbook (from when I was driving over the road) and the handouts that I carry for the Antique Truck Club of America. DodgeB4YA-that expanded metal must make you impervious to sniper fire! Nice looking job. Mike

Edited by MBFowler
Posted

While in Palm Springs last November I checked out the headliner in this Ford truck...not sure if it's the stock design, but I liked the one piece "molded" look.

The material here looked like foam-backed cloth, popular for headliners in 80s cars (usually glued to a cardboard backer).

I was trying to think of a way to get the same setup in a PH; not sure if possible.

But I do like Bob's idea below...is the "lid" piece just a snap-in fit?

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Posted (edited)
While in Palm Springs last November I checked out the headliner in this Ford truck...not sure if it's the stock design, but I liked the one piece "molded" look.

The material here looked like foam-backed cloth, popular for headliners in 80s cars (usually glued to a cardboard backer).

I was trying to think of a way to get the same setup in a PH; not sure if possible.

But I do like Bob's idea below...is the "lid" piece just a snap-in fit?

Yes, the top panel just pushes up and stays in place. The rear 1 piece panel also helps hold the top panel with the push button clips too.

The panels are easily installed or removed and strong and springy-they retain the formed shape well.

I glued the foam type headlining material to the expanded metal. Top side of the metal is covered/glued with 6 mil plastic to prevent condensation from hitting headliner assembly. The one I did in my big truck has lasted over 25 years!

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
Posted

Paul. I did it in several steps. I used dynamat 1 foot squares on the roof, inner kick panels, and on the rear of the cab just behind both doors. Then I made a cardboard template for the roof headliner (so that I could locate the two mounting standoffs on the roof) and side panels. I then transferred those pattern to pieces of 1/4" luan cut just a 1/4" larger all the way around so that I had some extra to cut off instead of being short. The luan is much less flexible than the cardboard, and I didn't want to be short. I trimmed up the luan, and then glued the cloth backed vinyl material to the luan using an aerosol contact cement on both the luan and the vinyl. After letting it dry for a day I installed it. If I had it to do over again, I would have gone 1/2 - 3/4 inch wider on the roof panel, but I'm ok with the way it is. The seat covers, door, and kick panels are all black, and I like it because it makes my goofups harder to see. The noise level in the cab is half what is was before I did all of this. I think the dynamat that I used on the inside of the firewall will also help w cab noise and inside temps during the coming summer. I can send a couple more pics tomorrow. Mike

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

MBFOWLER: I've pretty much duplicated what you did. I'm using an 1/8' rubber for the first layer, bubble wrap next, then 'cardboard. Rubber is on, worked on firewall today.

This will all look different in a couple of days. It's like hanging paper in a very small area.

edit: the cardboard pic #4 is shows me trying to make patterns. Pic #1 was an attempt with 1/8" masonite, too stiff, broke at the bend. The firewall is the hardest.

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Edited by pflaming
Posted (edited)

Wow-does that look familar. I just busted up the masonite and burned it. I had the same problem-it wasn't flexible enough which is why I bought the sheet of 1/4" luan to use as my backing material. I used the cardboard template to locate the two screw holes that hold up the roof panel, and then transferred the wholes from the cardboard to my luan-I didn't know how to find them with the luan, because you can't fell the standoffs with the stiffer material. One thing you may want to do, that I didn't and wish that I had. Before you cover your backing material with the fabric, fit and secure all of your pieces with whatever fasteners you're going to use. I found that after I added the material to my patterns, that there was enough of a dimensional change that the door surrounds didn't fit properly, and I ended up remaking the passenger side. Better to make your adjustments with the backing material, because once the material is attached, there is no going back. Still haven't done the back panel, but it'll be done long before spring gets here. If you've driven the truck before, you won't believe the difference in the noise level this makes. Anxious to see pics of the finished product. Mike

Edited by MBFowler
Posted

Thankyou for the tips. My cab only has one bracket to hold the headliner and that also holds the interior light. I found some plastic fasteners at ACE, they were $.90 EACH, OUCH. What did you use? A bit cold out just now, 35 degrees, so will have to bundle up!

OT: The pic is winter in the valley. This entire valley floor gets raked clean every winter. After the trees and vines are pruned, all is raked into the middle of the row and shreaded. It has a beauty of its own. We are about 20 days away from blossom time.

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Posted

drove a couple towns over last evening for supper..while going through the one town the Japanese Magnolia wee in full glory...we talking some huge trees here..one of my more favorite trees as they are in full bloom long before the first leaf..we have had such a mild winter so far the trees are getting confused..there was pine pollen on my car Wednesday..I hope we do not suffer a great set back due to this should a big cold snap hit us hard..I had some Irises blooming in December..pretty..but just a tad early...

Posted

I think I hi-jacked my own thread but, oh well . . . The next full moon will be what to watch.

Posted

I think I hi-jacked my own thread but, oh well . . . The next full moon will be what to watch.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Today I finally finished insulating the rear of the cab, installing my new panels, and repadding the seat cushion. I'm pleased how this came out, but this was my first stab at upholstering.

Edited by MBFowler
Posted (edited)

Finished the floor today. I needed something to roll out/down and set the contact glue. Saw the Tonka's and they worked perfectly so I added them to the story.

Edit: I painted the bubble wrap with a satin black. The firewall has the rubber, then a 3/8" floor pad, then the bubble. Once It is fully attached to the firewall I will decide whether to cover it or leave it. I kindof like the 'industrial look of the painted bubble wrap.

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Edited by pflaming
Posted (edited)

Almost there. Most is in place, will glue and do detail tomorrow. I'm not going to cover the bubble for a while, sortof like the look. Also painted the dash inserts, cleans things up. Getting a speedo next.

One thinks the pattern is perfect but it is trim, trim, trim. One thing that was a great aid was a roll of velcro tape, I cut a lot of 2" pieces and they held while I measured.

edit: Waiting for the glue to set slows down the action, at least for me, especially contact cement. A lot of the wrinkles will come out when that back piece is glued in. The bubble wrap was painted with a satin black.

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Edited by pflaming
Posted (edited)

It's all glued in. The top of door panels are a bit different. It's going to stay this way for a while. (1) I want to see what comes loose and (2) I like the industrial look. Been quite a job, I'm a bit slow, but no matter.

Hope this thread has not gotten boring. Dash is next.

Edit: Once the seats are in, it won't be so dark. Thinking a medium blue for seat covers, or a grey or maroon. The previous owner did some painting so that there is a great deal of over spray on the doors and door jams. When this is nearly done, I may have the doors, door jams, seat platform and dash repainted same color by a pro. The cab is the throne and it should be nice. Now I'm working with Keven on the gauges.

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Edited by pflaming
Posted

Looks great! Now you will have to drive with a window open so you can hear the firetrucks behind you.

Todd B

Posted

Must have enjoyed using the bubble wrap cause you got the rear window too.

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