Engine Rebuilding Gotchas...

[Guest P15-D24]

Starting a new sticky thread for those rebuilding an engine. The thread's objective is sharing those little gotchas you discover after the you get the engine back together and have a bad surprise. Some are minor nits, some end up being a major redo. Or it could be just a tip or reminder on the best way of completing an assembly process. So if you have been down this road now is the time to share your gotcha!

[Merle Coggins]

The main thing I can recommend when assembling these engines is to use thread sealant on the manifild studs, head bolts, and several of the bolts for the timing chain front plate and cover. These bolts and studs go into the water jacket in many cases, so play it safe and seal all of them. I also add a little sealant (not RTV silicone) to the edge of the core plugs before installing and seating them into the block.

I am not a fan of RTV silicone. It has it's purposes but I find it missused way too much. I prefer Permetex #2 or Permetex #9 "Tack & Seal" for engine builds.

Merle

[Plymouthy Adams]

I have come behind a couple folks and found that you should properly index the timing pump to the cam at TDC for correct position of the distributor rotor. AND it is also a good time to install the distributor as more than not you will end up rotating the engine crank somewhere between this point and engine firing..Pay attention to the oil lines and see they are connected and tightened. Lastly..test you fuel system prior to start to ensure the float is not sticking as it has been laid aside for the rebuild period.

[Guest P15-D24]

Valve guides for intake valves have the counterbored ends downward. Exhaust valves are installed with the counterbored ends upwards. This provides for better heat shielding. (Ref. pg.149, Plymouth Service Manual, P15, P17-P20, P22-P25)

[Guest P15-D24]

On the 23" flathead (218, 230) their are "left" and "right" connecting rods. This is because the connecting rods are offset left or right. You can identify them by the forge numbers on the rods or looking at the offset. They are installed in "pairs", for example cylinders 1 & 2 will use a left and right rod.

Connecting rods have an oil metering hole on the top side of the con rod end. The rod is installed with the oil metering hole toward the valve side of the engine.

[Guest P15-D24]

Piston is assembled on the connecting rod with the slotted side of piston opposite the connecting rod oil metering hole. (Ref. Pg. 122, Dodge Shop Manual D-19, D-22 and D-24)

[Guest P15-D24]

Since the tool mentioned in the manual is no longer available this process has been used instead. Install the cover but don't tighten down. Make sure the cover seal for the hub is installed. Remove the keyway from the crank hub and install the hub on the crank. Verify the seal is spaced evenly around the hub, then tighten the timing case cover. Remove and reinstall the crank hub with the keyway.

[Guest P15-D24]

While you can remove the pressure plate with the bell housing in place, it is much easier with the bell housing off. (Remove the pressure plate and clutch disk first to reduce weight) After removing the bell housing bolts two 1/2" alignment dowels will typically bind on the bell housing. Instead, just loosen the bell housing bolts, then drive out the 1/2" dowels with a brass drift punch. Don't be surprised if they are a bit difficult to drive out. Once out, remove the bell housing bolts and you can easily lift it off proving full access to the flywheel nuts and bolts.

[Don Coatney]

On the 23" flathead (218, 230) their are "left" and "right" connecting rods. This is because the connecting rods are offset left or right. You can identify them by the forge numbers on the rods or looking at the offset. They are installed in "pairs", for example cylinders 1 & 2 will use a left and right rod.

Connecting rods have an oil metering hole on the top side of the con rod end. The rod is installed with the oil metering hole toward the valve side of the engine.

Long block (25") engines do not have offset rods. In most every engine I have disassembled the rods are marked for what cylinder they come out of. Long blocks do have the squirt hole in the rod as pictured.

[ggdad1951]

when remounting the water pump to the block, make sure to get enough sealant near top where it lives by the head gasket. Not much width there and it'll weep leak easily.

[JBNeal]

verify that the oil pressure bypass piston & bore are clean & smooth so the piston doesn't stick...

verify that the fuel pump pivot pin is staked so that it won't fall out...

when using the oil bath air cleaner, verify that it's clamped to the carburetor before going on that first test drive...

Edited June 15, 2018 by JBNeal

[Ulu]

Make sure your oil pump is primed. On a car where it's internal, you can't prime it once the pan is on. 

 

Except, you can put about 12 quarts in the pan until the pump is totally covered, crank the engine slowly, then drain the excess oil once it's primed. 

Messy but it works.

 

On the Mopar flat 6 or any external pump engine, you can do it later, but it's a pain to do after the fact.

 

Prime it at installation.

[Plymouthy Adams]

and unlike a few folks I have known..DO ENSURE there is adequate coolant in the block and radiator prior to running  and cam break in..in the excitement of firing it up.this can be overlooked..PUT IT ON A CHECK LIST  I suggest the use of a check list for most all procedures..good insurance policy for the most part and is free..

[Ulu]

Make sure you have the right gasket kit before you start assembly. I've had ones where everything fit until I got to the valve cover. (I had the '59 Ford kit but my '59 Edsel had the Mercury head.) 

Edited December 4, 2014 by Ulu

[Frank Elder]

Blown head gaskets from not getting the torque wrench back out of its hiding place after several heat cycles.......that section between the cylinders  is so thin!

[Ulu]

I was taught to torque all head bolts just before disassembling an old engine. That way if any threads are stripped, you'll know it before re-assembly time. This is particularly important on aluminum engines.

[Plymouthy Adams]

aluminum head are usually angle torqued....I would not stress the bolts beyond their recommended angle...I know for sure you would not wish to do this to a number of later model Nissan boat anchors

[Ulu]

Good point. All the aluminum stuff I worked on were MC's , industrial engines, or VWs.

 

All of them used regular torque values.

 

That angle-torque business didn't really start until the 80's did it?

[countrytravler]

For best performance, Balance and blue print. Also Micro blue all moving parts. Engine will last longer, perform better and run cooler. Use a 6 vain water pump.

Watch this video of the truck. 1935 Dodge.

[Big Swede]

For best performance, Balance and blue print. Also Micro blue all moving parts. Engine will last longer, perform better and run cooler. Use a 6 vain water pump.

Watch this video of the truck. 1935 Dodge.

Microblue? Please explain

[Plymouthy Adams]

Microblue is a coating...do an internet search for more details

[countrytravler]

http://www.microblueracing.com/

[Big Swede]

Microblue is a coating...do an internet search for more details

Thanks

[countrytravler]

Check all threads. 

[Frank Elder]

Chase all threads.......