fresh air option

[ggdad1951]

So YoungEd was kind enough to find me a fresh air option and I now have my grubby hands on (most of) the parts, I have several questions for anyone that has this option installed. I'll want to see some pictures of the install for the controls, the cables and ducting if possible.

Also there is a "valve" (1-48-854) listed in the accesories section. That WAS missing, what does it do? Is it needed?

The shroud is also pretty shot, if you refurbed one, what di you remake it out of?

thanks in advance.

[Rusty O'Toole]

Fresh air option, do you mean heater? The one that sits on the right inner fender?

The original duct was molded paper mache or cardboard. The usual way to make a replacement, is to get a sheet of black cardboard of the type used in making door panels, and make up a new one. You get the cardboard from upholstery supply stores. I believe they used the cardboard material for sound deadening.

One guy used the packing material that comes with new computers, the brown molded kind. He made mold, soaked the packing in the bath tub overnight and made a new duct. He said once it was painted it came out so close to the original in appearance it was scary.

You will need a valve to control the hot water flow. Chrysler products in the 70s and 80s used a valve that went right on the water hose. It is controlled by a cable. New ones are available from your local parts store. Ask for a heater control for a 1980 Dodge D150 pickup truck. It looks like this.

http://www.bouchillonperformance.com/bpeheatervalve.asp

Edited October 31, 2011 by Rusty O'Toole

[ggdad1951]

ok, cool, thanks.

that all makes sense, wish I could get the right valve tho....will have to start to dig and watch e-pay, as I doubt the one in the link is "correct".

[Young Ed]

Got a picture of the correct one? Does it look like this one? If so I might know where there is one.......

[Merle Coggins]

The "Fresh Air Heater" option for the trucks included an adapter for the firewall and another for the radiator cowl that had a 5 or 6" hose connected. It would draw in fresh air from the grill area back into the heater. I was the Fresh air firewall adapter in the pics of the pick-n-pull truck in Ed's thread. Did you get both ends? Then you just need the hose that goes in between them. Also, I believe there's a cable that opens and closes a damper door in the firewall adapter and a cable operated hot water valve to control the temp in the heater.

I don't have any pics, but I know I've seen some. I think maybe Reg has one of these setups.

Merle

[Reg Evans]

An exploded view.

And the cable operated valve ......back of head.

[ggdad1951]

like this:

[ggdad1951]

An exploded view.

And the cable operated valve ......back of head.

nice! Got the assembly instructions?

[Young Ed]

like this:

Odd that ones typically seen in dual heater applications. Looks like they used it for a single application and just plugged the extra hole. I have 2 used ones like this but neither work and I've never found any parts to rebuild them. I believe technically my car should have one like it instead of the one I am using with a T.

[ggdad1951]

@ YoungEd, hey, I just go off the pictures!

@ merle, yah Ed got eveything except the valve which wasn't there (and of course the ducting from teh grill to the firewall).

@ reg, any more details how these hook up (pictures or I can call ya) would be greatly appreciated!

[Young Ed]

Well I think I still have a couple new ones like Reg has on his head and I have in my car.

[ggdad1951]

Well I think I still have a couple new ones like Reg has on his head and I have in my car.

might have to suffice.....

[B1B Keven]

Some pics:

1971 Dodge pickup (6 cyl) heater control valve (pull to open):

4" dryer duct hose:

[John-T-53]

For the valve, another option is to install a non-remote control type with a petcock style shutoff. This coule probably be aquited at Napa.

StudebakerParts.com had a 4" duct hose but it's been on back order for months now. They also sell the defroster duct.

The long cables that go to the water valve and fresh air duct valve are very scarce and impossible to find. "Townwagon" has a couple as part of an entire heater kit, but he's not selling separate. He might still have some of the dash-mounted pods where the control knobs mount, however. AMS Obsolete (fmmpar on ebay) has NOS cables for like $85 each (too much!). Maybe you could try to talk them down?

I have a couple short broken Bowden cables with the control ends intact. Has anybody heard of a place that could rebuild these to any length?

[ggdad1951]

I believe Ed scored me all the cables and controls, but I'm curious as to where they penetrate the fire wall?

[Young Ed]

Dang scarce and impossible?? Mark I think you have the fresh air cable but not the one for the hot water. Thats probably what goes in that third spot.

[ggdad1951]

Dang scarce and impossible?? Mark I think you have the fresh air cable but not the one for the hot water. Thats probably what goes in that third spot.

if you look at the parts book, it only shows two knobs...."AIR" & "HEAT"

[TodFitch]

For the valve, another option is to install a non-remote control type with a petcock style shutoff. This could probably be acquired at Napa.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=BK_6601402_0069214657

I have a couple short broken Bowden cables with the control ends intact. Has anybody heard of a place that could rebuild these to any length?

I've heard of people cutting the old wire flush off the handle, drilling out the old wire, then silver soldering in a new wire. Seems like that might work and would allow you to attach a wire of any desired length.

[John-T-53]

if you look at the parts book, it only shows two knobs...."AIR" & "HEAT"

As I understand it:

AIR: The duct valve

HEAT or FAN: The heater's fan switch

TEMP: Heater control valve

DEFROST: (Self explanatory)

Tod: Good find on the NAPA valve. I think I'm gonna get one of these as a backup for when the old Mopar valve starts to spray coolant all over.

[Young Ed]

if you look at the parts book, it only shows two knobs...."AIR" & "HEAT"

What controls the valve in the head then? You should have a temp knob/cable.

[Reg Evans]

Here's a photo of my coltrols thanks to tony Urwin.

Temp cable is ~37"

Air ...............~49"

Defrost..........~46"

Eventually the missing cables will be installed here in Old Yeller.

[ggdad1951]

this is why I don't think I'll get this in right away, gotta get stuff figured! The knob mount had 3 holes for controls from the fresh air. The "on" for the heat from my truck was a rotory switch on the dash, with a light comes on when its on.

with this addition the pull knobs I have are air, heat, choke, throttle, panel, head

no defrost tho.

Edited October 31, 2011 by ggdad1951

[John-T-53]

Here's a photo of my coltrols thanks to tony Urwin.

Temp cable is ~37"

Air ...............~49"

Defrost..........~46"

Good info Reg. Now if I can find some bulk cable for cheap, I might give it a go on making these...

Thanks,

[Reg Evans]

Good info Reg. Now if I can find some bulk cable for cheap, I might give it a go on making these...

Thanks,

FYI....Those measurements were from the back of the 4 hole mounting bracket and include the solid part of the cable.

[B1B Keven]

The cables don't need to be as long if mounted as shown.