knuckleharley Posted October 15, 2011 Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 http://www.jcwhitney.com/professional-3-arm-hub-puller/p2007847.jcwx?filterid=j1 Guys,THIS is the hub puller of your dreams. VERY well made,made in America,and best of all,it's a 3 leg puller that works on the old Mopar 4-1/2 inch bolt pattern brake drums and makes pulling stubborn drums off tapered and keyed axle shafts easy as falling off a log. This and the traditional BFH will remove the most stubborn brake drum in just a few minutes time with no worry about how hard you hit the arm with the BFH. I just used it today to pull a rear drum off a 1937 International pu in about 10 minutes after working on the damn thing for over a week with slide hammer pullers and pullers I had to use a socket and 3 foot breaker bar on with no luck. It is supposed to work on all 5,6,and 8 lug hubs from 3 inches to 8 inches,so you can also use it on your other projects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bingster Posted October 15, 2011 Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 Thanks very much for posting. That's a tool that I will need and I was wondering where I was going to find one. I appreciate it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YukonJack Posted October 15, 2011 Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 Where is the piece you hit with the BFH? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted October 15, 2011 Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 The end of the screw! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knuckleharley Posted October 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 Thanks very much for posting. That's a tool that I will need and I was wondering where I was going to find one. I appreciate it! I'm glad I was able to help somebody else for a change. I would have been lost without all the help people have given me over the years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knuckleharley Posted October 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 (edited) Where is the piece you hit with the BFH? The photo is misleading because the tool I received had a traditional bolt head on the pressure screw that you could fit a regular socket onto. The missing piece isn't actually missing. It just isn't shown in the photo. It is the called "the special wrench that turns the pressure screw" in the description. What it really is is a bar with arms and striking surfaces on each end that fits over the pressure screw. You whack the hell out of it with a hammer,and it tightens and puts pressure on the axle to pull the drum off. If you have a impact wrench you could use that on the pressure screw with a socket if you wanted. A half-inch impact would probably do the job,but a 3/4 inch impact would be better if your compressor flows enough air to run it. If you don't have the impact or the air pressure,just use the "special tool" with the BFH and you are in business. I used a 3 lb hammer today because it was handy and I was too lazy to look for my 5 pound hammer Edited October 15, 2011 by knuckleharley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knuckleharley Posted October 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 (edited) The end of the screw! Not really. There is a bar that goes over the screw that has hammer striking points on each end that you whack with the hammer to put pressure on the drum. Some people whack on the end of the screw,but I don't see how this accomplishes anything other than beating up the screw head because the deep threads aren't going to allow the screw to go any deeper. The vibrations from the shock of the hammer hitting the end of the pressure screw may help some,but I don't see how it would equal the force supplied by whacking the arm that turns the screw. Whacking on the bar ends does the job because it sends vibrations down the screw to the axle and the hub,and this helps shake it loose just like a impact wrench does. You can also whack the sides of the brake drum with the hammer to help bust it loose if you want. I suspect this would be a lot more effective than beating on the end of the pressure screw. Edited October 15, 2011 by knuckleharley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted October 15, 2011 Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 Never beat on the brake drum and really never should on the end of the screw-but sometimes need to out of frustration- bam the drum pops off!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted October 15, 2011 Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 Just pulled mine; not sure how long they were on there but I had to use a puller and then heat the hub with a torch to get them off. I had a thought; why couldn't you cut the rivets that hold the drum to the hub, thread the hub, and then use a short hex bolt instead? Then you could pull the drum and get to the brakes without having to pull the hub. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted October 15, 2011 Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 Just had to replace rear/Rt and Left drums on a 62 Polara because someone didn't use the proper puller to remove the drum /hub assembly's. Butcher job to say the least. Use the correct high quality puller and the drums will come off with out beating on the drum/ I have never used heat and have removed hundreds of these MoPar rear hub/drum assemblies. The drums should be left as is to be sure they run true and can be machined properly if necessary in the future-JMO. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knuckleharley Posted October 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 Never beat on the brake drum and really never should on the end of the screw-but sometimes need to out of frustration- bam the drum pops off!! I have no idea if it helps or not,but I always end up taking a impact socket and putting it against the side of the snout on the hub where it goes over the axle,and then pounding on the socket all the way around the hub. I do this as I am tightening up the pressure screw. Probably a waste of time and energy,but I do it anyhow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knuckleharley Posted October 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 Just pulled mine; not sure how long they were on there but I had to use a puller and then heat the hub with a torch to get them off. I had a thought; why couldn't you cut the rivets that hold the drum to the hub, thread the hub, and then use a short hex bolt instead? Then you could pull the drum and get to the brakes without having to pull the hub. Thoughts? I suspect they are balanced at the factory,and you would have a tough time riveting one back together so it doesn't wobble or run out of round. I also think most people would have a tough time getting the new rivets to hold as well as the ones installed at the factory. They have some pretty impressive jigs and presses to make sure the rivets are done properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted October 15, 2011 Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 I removed the hubs from all four drums and did not replace them as the lug bolts hold them on. That was maybe ten years ago. It has has no affect on balance or centering. AMC used to use two screws on the rears, but 60's and up Chevies never used anything on front or rear. Try it, you'll like. It sure makes brake service easier, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted October 15, 2011 Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 Thanks, Neil. I'm going to do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted October 15, 2011 Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 Oh Boy!.....Another set of haber dashed rear OE MoPar drums ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted October 15, 2011 Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 Don't panic, it won't hurt a thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted October 16, 2011 Report Share Posted October 16, 2011 No panic here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 16, 2011 Report Share Posted October 16, 2011 I used my puller today when replacing rear wheel cylinders...snug it up..add a cheater bar..one arm leverage and bang pop its off..qnyway,left rear cylinder was leaking so replaced both sides...use the Amco 1750 to adj up the brakes...mounted and balanced 4 new General Jet Air bias ply WWW's...put some new shocks on the rear...now have a car with non leaking brakes and road manners..can change lanes quickly at 75 miles an hour without rocking all over the place, rather dangerous before, nice road manners..can't wait till I get the wild hair to relocate the front shocks.. it was weird..with the old tires I could be driving along on straight road and all of the sudden the front end would dip..felt like a tire rolling under..me did not like that at all.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captden29 Posted October 16, 2011 Report Share Posted October 16, 2011 good price for what appears to be quality and something that will work as stated. i have one i bought from an old retired mechanic that is the real thing. paid $75 plus shipping off ebay. these are worth their weight when they work right. working right usually means you can beat the tar out of it with the BFH and it will keep on ticking. and it will actually remove the drum. pay good money for a good tool and you will never be sorry. capt den Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted October 16, 2011 Report Share Posted October 16, 2011 Good proper tools make the job easy and done right! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted October 16, 2011 Report Share Posted October 16, 2011 Wow, that was a great deal! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg F Posted October 17, 2011 Report Share Posted October 17, 2011 Bought this one and worked great for a resonable price. http://sastool.com/mpp-universal-hub-puller.html GF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1950 Special Deluxe Posted October 17, 2011 Report Share Posted October 17, 2011 I have the same one. Worked great for me too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 17, 2011 Report Share Posted October 17, 2011 that is basically like the one I bought also...nice injection molded carring case included..I have popped a number of drums already..got my for 40.00 at a swap meet.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aero3113 Posted October 17, 2011 Report Share Posted October 17, 2011 (edited) Yes, when made right they will eventually do the job. If you have the time read through these posts, words can't explain how hard I was pounding to finally get the hub off! http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=17863 http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=17960&highlight=Drum+removal Edited October 17, 2011 by aero3113 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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