DollyDodge Posted September 27, 2011 Report Posted September 27, 2011 Does anyone know the weight of the 4 speed stick transmission. I am curious, since I will be pulling my engine in December, I want to know if it is heavy enough I will need a transmission jack of some kind. Any help on how to take the transmission (and engine for that matter) out wiill be appreciated, since I have never done such a job before. I have the shop manual which helps a bunch. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted September 27, 2011 Report Posted September 27, 2011 You'll want a jack for sure. I've got one here that I could drag up on a scale, but I'd estimate it to be around 100 lbs. When I pulled mine I dropped out the trans, with a jack, removed the clutch and brake pedals, and the master cylinder. Even then it was a trick to get the angle just right, with a load rotator, to get the bell housing past the steering gearbox. Merle Quote
ggdad1951 Posted September 27, 2011 Report Posted September 27, 2011 call me and my friends crazy we just lifted it by hand. I hung it on the engine stand for paint all by myself. Biggest part is just getting it started so you don't toss your back out. I'd put it at the 90-100 pound range. Quote
B1B Keven Posted September 27, 2011 Report Posted September 27, 2011 I just dropped the drive line, removed the speedo cable, removed the trans cover in the floor, unbolted the trans, slid the trans backwards while sitting on the seat and set it on the ground using the e-brake lever and shifter. Quote
Reg Evans Posted September 27, 2011 Report Posted September 27, 2011 I just dropped the drive line, removed the speedo cable, removed the trans cover in the floor, unbolted the trans, slid the trans backwards while sitting on the seat and set it on the ground using the e-brake lever and shifter. That's how I have always done it too. No wonder I have a bad back. Quote
JBNeal Posted September 28, 2011 Report Posted September 28, 2011 I picked up a trans.adapter that fits on the end of my 2ton floor jack from NAPA, I think it was $50, or make your own with some scrap steel & a chain. Make yer life easy by making some long pilot studs to back the transmission out and to slide it back in later. It probable wouldn't hurt to have a heavy rubber mallet or a dead-blow hammer on standby for persuasion if that transmission gets kinda wedged somehow. Quote
DollyDodge Posted September 28, 2011 Author Report Posted September 28, 2011 thank you all for your input. I have been looking at the floor jack transmission adapter routine. I don't have a floor jack, but I should get one anyway. I wish I had someone to help me on this as it sounds like it can be quite a job. In any event, in a few months I will pull the engine during my Christmas Vacation. I thought about just pulling the transmission and holding on to it, but the jack sounds better. What size should the pilots studs be, I see they mentions using them in the shop manual, but don't give a size. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted September 28, 2011 Report Posted September 28, 2011 As I recall the bolts are 5/8" course thread. Quote
JBNeal Posted September 29, 2011 Report Posted September 29, 2011 pull one of the mounting bolts out of the transmission, that'll give ya an idea of the size and ya can take it to the hardware store to match it. While you're at it, you can pull each bolt out one at a time to take a gander at it, then put it right back in, without having pulled out the transmission. Transmission removal and installation is fairly simple if ya take your time, prepare by studying the shop manual and have the right tools on hand. If you can take a dually wheel off & put it back on, then transmission R&I is just a tad more higher on the difficulty scale. Quote
DollyDodge Posted September 29, 2011 Author Report Posted September 29, 2011 I can do the dually thing easy, so I am a bit less worried about the transmission. I am going to order a floor jack today. Quote
HanksB3B Posted September 29, 2011 Report Posted September 29, 2011 Mine is a three speed (so I guess it's lighter than the 4-speed). These hanger bolts really help: Someone has always been there to lend me a hand, but I envision being able to do it myself by using a 2x4 laid across the floor board opening and some nylon ratchet-straps (whatever you call them) and a small floor jack. Should work, Hank Quote
Merle Coggins Posted September 29, 2011 Report Posted September 29, 2011 The 3 speed is MUCH lighter. I pulled the one out of my parts truck by leaning into the cab, reaching through the opening in the floor to grab the trans and slid it out and down to the ground. It's maybe half the weight of a 4 speed. Quote
Barry Maxwell Posted September 30, 2011 Report Posted September 30, 2011 HanksB3B: Where did you get those slotted stud bolts? They look great for that transmission application. Quote
Young Ed Posted September 30, 2011 Report Posted September 30, 2011 Hanks look almost profressionally made but all the ones I've used are just a bolt with the head cut off and a slot cut with a cutoff wheel. Quote
DollyDodge Posted September 30, 2011 Author Report Posted September 30, 2011 thanks for a picture of the pilots. Now I understand what needs to be done. Quote
Barry Maxwell Posted September 30, 2011 Report Posted September 30, 2011 Hanks look almost profressionally made but all the ones I've used are just a bolt with the head cut off and a slot cut with a cutoff wheel. Thank you. I will do the same thing when I remove my transmision in a few weeks. Quote
DollyDodge Posted October 27, 2011 Author Report Posted October 27, 2011 I pulled one of the transmission bolts and it was a 7/16. So I purchased some 6 inch 7/16 bolts (longest I could find in town, and only one store had the long ones, the other hardware store only had 4 inch). How long should the pilot bolts be for my 4 speed transmission? Quote
Dave72dt Posted October 28, 2011 Report Posted October 28, 2011 You only need a couple inches plus the thickness of the ears on the trans. They're there for support while you wiggle the trans around while your arms and fingers go numb. Longer won't hurt as long as you can get them out afterward meaning you don't want them hitting something on the case as you go in or as you're removing them. Clutch disc splines and pilot brg line up almost at the same time. Throw out brg is first and pretty easy to get past, then the disc, then pilot and finally the input brg retainer in the bellhousing. Put the trans in gear before trying to install. If the splines don't line up, you can turn the tailshaft to rotate the input shaft. You don't need screwdriver slots in the guide pins either. With the trans in place and a couple bolts tight, they should turn out by hand. Quote
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