clutch - replace?

[Don Jordan]

I need a quick opinion.

I've got the engine out. It's going to the machine shop tomorrow. Is there a rule of thumb on replacing the clutch? It's not worn down to the rivets but it's not brand new and it would be so much easier to do while the engine is out.

Bolts? I'm going to replace the head bolts - just because. Any ideas about replacing all the other bolts? Since they are handy.

What else should be done that I'm not thinking of? Of course I'm going to clean the engine compartment. What else?

I would appreciate hearing your experiences.

thanks

[randroid]

Don,

Rule of thumb I was taught was to replace the throw-out bearing whenever it's convenient because it won't be convenient again for a while. If you think the clutch is showing wear perhaps you might want to do it now because it isn't much easier with the engine out it's MUCH easier with the engine out. If you have any doubts about it imagine yourself under the car in the dirt trying to get the car up a few more inches than your jacks go and pause for a moment to reflect on how much you saved by not replacing it when the engine was out. Want to replace the clutch under the car during August to save maybe $10?

Okay, maybe that was a little theatrical but not by much, and you will want to do the freeze plug behind the flywheel now for the same theatrical reason.

The list could be written into a total rebuild, I suppose, but what I mentioned is what I'd do. Why are you replacing the head bolts in the first place, and why would you pull the engine to change them?

-Randy

[Andydodge]

Clutch/pressure plate/throwout bearing/welch plugs on the side & rear....I would replace/refurbish all if the engines out............andyd

[desoto1939]

Since the engine and tran is out also have them mill the flywheel to insure that you have a flat surface. It is much easier now then to take it all apart again. Put in a new oil pump New water distributuion tube brass if you can get one.

Check the surface of the intake and exhust manifold to make sure it is not warped and have them cut if it is put a straight endge on the flat side to see if there is any warpage.

New fuel pump. flush the radiator and have it cooked to check for leaks since you have the engine out. The list can go on and on and on. Do what your wallet can afford.

Rich Hartung

[Don Coatney]

have them mill the flywheel to insure that you have a flat surface

Flywheels will develop hot (read hard) spots over time. Use of a milling tool for re-surfacing will not work well as the cutting tool will chatter and not cut when it hits these hard spots. The face of the flywheel should be surface ground as the grinding wheel will remove the hard spots. The grinding wheel swirl marks can be seen in the photo below.

[james curl]

Any good Clutch rebuilding shop should be able to grind the flywheel surface. Most rebuild shops are cheaper to deal with than the parts house which now only sell Kit clutch replacements. The shop can reline the disc and rebuild the pressure plate ,furnish a new throw out bearing and grind the flywheel cheaper than buying questionable parts from the parts house. Most people here who do not have access to a local clutch rebuilding service have had good luck with Tennessee Clutch rebuilders. Check Coatney's rebuild site for information on them.

[greg g]

While you are at it, have the teeth on the flywheel checked for wear, if there are questionable teeth, have the ring gear flipped also.

There are two places listed in your area, I would check out that truck place.

http://www.google.com/search?q=clutch rebuilders acton, ca

[Don Jordan]

Here's another one - I probably should have checked first. Steele Rubber wanted $88 for a front motor mount and I had to send in my old one. Bernbaum wants $24. What's up with that? Steele wants $97 for the rear mounts and Bernbaum wants $12 @.

Something doesn't sound right.

Bernbaum has front, rear (top/bottom), drive shaft dust cover (rubber) and the cover on the bell housing for the clutch. I went with them.

I'm replacing the head bolts because after 60 years of heating and cooling (it's probably an old wives tale - but I've got an old wife) the temper can change. And like it's been said - I'd rather do it now while I can get to them easily.

Thanks for the tips. I never thought about the flywheel.

Thanks again.

I hope everyone in and around the tornadoes is safe and still has their stuff.

[TodFitch]

While you are at it, have the teeth on the flywheel checked for wear, if there are questionable teeth, have the ring gear flipped also.

There are two places listed in your area, I would check out that truck place.

http://www.google.com/search?q=clutch rebuilders acton, ca

I had my clutch and my brake shoes rebuilt by Valley Friction Materials in Chatsworth lo these many years ago when I lived in the LA metro area. So far as I can tell, they are still in good shape. At least the brakes are and the clutch still feels fine.

[Fluid drive]

Don:

If you are working on either stud and nut or capscrews in the head it is very helpful to install grade 8 washers underneath them so that a true torque reading can be obtained. L heads on the MoPar engines are thin and prone to leakage in between the cylinders and the use of washers ( I buy them the size of the head pads and bore the I.D. to a free fit on the bolts/studs) and Copper Plus head gasket cement will greatly reduce the chance of that happening.

I agree that this is the time to replace that clutch, have the pressure plate (the single most out of balance part of the drive train) and flywheel computer balanced along with the internal engine components. I've been rebuilding these engines professionally for 40 years and the improvements that can be made while you have it apart are well worth doing.

Fluid Drive

[Don Jordan]

I took the day off to take the engine in. One thing I learned is I have to spend more time trying to learn how to back my trailer.

I feel very confident with these guys. They rebuilt my 48 and it purrs.

I told them about some of the things I read here. They are going to machine the flywheel, check the teeth, new clutch and pressure plate. They are going to bore it out, clean it up. It's only money and you can't take it with you. So I'm going to enjoy it.

Quick question: what color? The last one came back - silver. This one went in blue. I've seen Don Coatney's and that's a blue. Is there a stock number? I'm never going to "show" the car but I'd like to be close.

[Don Coatney]

I took the day off to take the engine in. One thing I learned is I have to spend more time trying to learn how to back my trailer.

I feel very confident with these guys. They rebuilt my 48 and it purrs.

I told them about some of the things I read here. They are going to machine the flywheel, check the teeth, new clutch and pressure plate. They are going to bore it out, clean it up. It's only money and you can't take it with you. So I'm going to enjoy it.

Quick question: what color? The last one came back - silver. This one went in blue. I've seen Don Coatney's and that's a blue. Is there a stock number? I'm never going to "show" the car but I'd like to be close.

I see you have been a member of this forum sence December 2006 but it is apparent you have never read all the information available on the main web page supporting this forum. You really should take the time to do so.

[boxer_inv]

I think what Mr Coatney was referring to is here in the main P15-D24.com pages-references section.

Scroll through and there is all of the information about colours etc. End of the day though, its your engine:)

I'm in the process of pulling Daisy's engine and I still haven't really decided whether I'll stick with the 'stock' colours, or take some liberty to personalise it.

If you've been following plymouthasc's thread on his 1941 rebuild, I hazard to guess that EVERYTHING on that engine is A++ stock spec, including colours (is it an engine or a work of art!!!??!! - its fantastic).

I'll admit that at times I too forget just how much information is on the main page...

Rob.

Edited May 28, 2011 by boxer_inv

[Don Jordan]

You are correct, Mr. Coatney, and I apologize for my lazy behavior. I should have thoroughly researched the question before troubling you for an answer. An answer that would have taken less time and space than your rebuke.

I have learned my lesson. If I can't find the answer in the archives then it's probably a superfluous question that need not be asked.

This is my fault for being under the misinterpretation that this is a social forum to exchange ideas and interact with others.

It could be just me but when I ask a question there are new people on the forum who have not been around since the first day and have not cataloged all the answers. Maybe there are those who might want to offer an opinion.

I apologize that this faux pas has troubled you. I will cease asking harmless questions giving you more time to check the archives for the number of curt answers you've offered to innocent questions.

[RobertKB]

I took the day off to take the engine in. One thing I learned is I have to spend more time trying to learn how to back my trailer.

I feel very confident with these guys. They rebuilt my 48 and it purrs.

I told them about some of the things I read here. They are going to machine the flywheel, check the teeth, new clutch and pressure plate. They are going to bore it out, clean it up. It's only money and you can't take it with you. So I'm going to enjoy it.

Quick question: what color? The last one came back - silver. This one went in blue. I've seen Don Coatney's and that's a blue. Is there a stock number? I'm never going to "show" the car but I'd like to be close.

I personally like the silver colour. I used a Tremclad (Rustoleum) aluminum colour that looks like the original silver. I am sure there are silver engine paints out there as well but I have had good luck with the Tremclad that I used. I just touched up the engine in my '48 last year and think it looks OK. Good luck with the project.

Edited May 28, 2011 by RobertKB

[Don Coatney]

I took the day off to take the engine in. One thing I learned is I have to spend more time trying to learn how to back my trailer.

This might help.

http://www.ehow.com/video_4401516_back-up-trailer.html