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Posted

First of all, any one know off hand what size socket or wrench I need. Tried a 1 7/8 but feels a little sloppy.

Second, how do I get at that nut??? Not much room there. I was able to get the socket to the nut, but no way a ratchet or bar will fit with it & the cross member is in the way from underneath.

Thanks,

Bryan

Posted

the bolt on my crank front was a 1 1/4". Just used a regular open ended wrench.

Posted

My truck had a hole in the front splash shield jst above the bumper I think was intended for that purpose.

Posted

I remember an old thread that talked of crank nut sizes Bryan. Here's the Link...http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=24294&highlight=pulley+size

I think that most vehicles have a hole in the splash shield for the crank handle. My truck has a hole in the front bumper to accommodate the crank handle - which is different from most of the other trucks that I have seen. The front bumper brackets on my 51 Desoto truck are mounted on top of the chassis to align the holes through to the crankshaft nut.

I believe that it would be hard to get a socket onto the crank nut given the limited space provided. A crank handle would probably be the best way to go, but I believe that they are harder to locate over there than here in Oz.

Desotodav

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Guest P15-D24
Posted

on the crankshaft that dis-engauges when the engine fire. Wound not try it with a standard socket and nut, not way to get the crank off the nut once it fires. It would be very dangerous to have a crank spinning at 600 rpm. My jack handle has has the special end for the starter nut on the crank.

Posted

I made my own crank handle in about 1972, it isn't very difficult. I used the crank on several occassions. My grandfather, who grew up with crank start vehicles gave me his method. Mak sure you thumb is on top of the crank when gripping (if under and the engine backfires, which does happen, it will likely hurt like heck, or worse break your thumb). Make sure the ingintion swithch is off, set choke as you think will be desired, and turn the engine over two or three times. Stop the crank so it is at the bottom of the cycle (as low as it can be). Turn on the ignition, then give a quick pull up on the crank. It almost always will start. I have done this in hot and cold weather just for fun, and when I have let the battery die. When I was a kid we had a crank start tractor and baler, both started easy with the above method.

Posted

I tried using the factory hand crank that came with my big truck-could barely turn the engine over! The 1 ton with a 265 was just a bit easier. Use the starter!

Posted
I tried using the factory hand crank that came with my big truck-could barely turn the engine over! The 1 ton with a 265 was just a bit easier. Use the starter!

Looks pretty much identical with the hand crank on my 1933 Plymouth.

Posted

It's always been pull up on the crank only, never push down. That's how hands arms and jaws got broke. Have to shake my head at the TV shows that have people literally winding the motors up to get them to go.

Posted
It's always been pull up on the crank only, never push down. That's how hands arms and jaws got broke. Have to shake my head at the TV shows that have people literally winding the motors up to get them to go.

Unless you mostly use it like I do, with the ignition off and the spark plugs out to rotate the engine to TDC so I can set the point timing. :)

The few times I've actually started the car using the crank, I have been careful to have my thumb on the same side of the handle as my fingers and to only do a pull on the handle, never a push.

Given how rarely my Plymouth L-6 has back fired on starting, I guess you could get away with doing it wrong for years without injury. Now a 4 banger with a manual spark lever set in the wrong position is a whole different animal...

Posted

I have never started a engine with a hand crank and probably never would-too scared! My pics are just for show!

Posted
I have never started a engine with a hand crank and probably never would-too scared! My pics are just for show!

started MANY a tractor in my younger years with the crank. The International "M" was a b*ich till I got older. Never had an issue with the crank and fingers...but always repected it as well!

Guest dylans1952
Posted

..... and mine took a 1 11/16" socket,used it with a long extension and a beak over bar. only used it to set timing though not to start motor.

Posted

not sure I would want to try hand crank one of these..I was setting the timing once on my 850 Norton Commando...went a bit high..cut off..thought I returned the timing enough ..not..I kicked it, it kicked back..I was not able to place pressure on my right knee for about an hour..limped for a few days after that also..these puppies were notorious for that..

Posted

Thank you all so much for your help. For now I just wanted to see if the engine would even turn or if it was locked up. I was able to quickly check the forum while at work so I ended up borrowing a 3/4" breaker bar with a few different sockets & a 12" extension (which I had to modify a bit to fit through the hole in the grill). Turns out my B2B has a 1 11/16" crank nut. Any way, great news, the engine is free!!! Turned over with no resistance at all! Such a relief not to need a rebuild. I will definitely look for a crank & a nut with the ramps though. Even if I never need to use them, I just like having the option.

Thanks again,

Bryan

Posted
Thank you all so much for your help. For now I just wanted to see if the engine would even turn or if it was locked up. I was able to quickly check the forum while at work so I ended up borrowing a 3/4" breaker bar with a few different sockets & a 12" extension (which I had to modify a bit to fit through the hole in the grill). Turns out my B2B has a 1 11/16" crank nut. Any way, great news, the engine is free!!! Turned over with no resistance at all! Such a relief not to need a rebuild. I will definitely look for a crank & a nut with the ramps though. Even if I never need to use them, I just like having the option.

Thanks again,

Bryan

hopfully not TOO free turning!

Posted
hopfully not TOO free turning!

Well, I had the plugs out while turning it & I had put a couple of ounces of Mystery Oil in the cylinders the day before. Free turning is good isn't it? I figured if it got to a tight spot it would have a stuck valve & I would stop & pull the head.

Posted
Well, I had the plugs out while turning it & I had put a couple of ounces of Mystery Oil in the cylinders the day before. Free turning is good isn't it? I figured if it got to a tight spot it would have a stuck valve & I would stop & pull the head.

yah, I was thinking broken rods! All depends on your definition of "free". I think more like spin it and "WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE" it just spins like a wheel.

Posted
Thank you all so much for your help. For now I just wanted to see if the engine would even turn or if it was locked up. I was able to quickly check the forum while at work so I ended up borrowing a 3/4" breaker bar with a few different sockets & a 12" extension (which I had to modify a bit to fit through the hole in the grill). Turns out my B2B has a 1 11/16" crank nut. Any way, great news, the engine is free!!! Turned over with no resistance at all! Such a relief not to need a rebuild. I will definitely look for a crank & a nut with the ramps though. Even if I never need to use them, I just like having the option.

Thanks again,

Bryan

i wouldnt trust just turning it over to judge condition on an engine. my 53 218 ran and sounded fine when i bought it, but was a complete mess on the inside. someone had rebuilt it in 66 and obviously didnt know what they were doing.

Posted

I know, I'm just being really optimistic about it because if I have to spend the cash to rebuild it may never run.:) Although, I'm almost certain the engine is in original condition. Grandpa was only the second owner & the odometer reads 26,000+ but I'll have to ask my uncle for sure. He seems to know the most about the truck.

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