steering wheel

[Guest P15-D24]

Could you guide us where to purchase that tool or name of manufacturer and model #?

Idea is if you see how it is suppose to work you can fab up a viable substitute.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Now I'm on the hunt for the original Miller puller. Found the same tool as you posted on Ebay-$110.00 buy it now. I like factory tools.

Bob

[Young Ed]

Bob check this one out. Looks good but would need to confirm the size of the opening for the column.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Willys-Jeep-Steering-Wheel-Puller-/251033410837?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a72c1dd15&vxp=mtr

[Young Ed]

This one looks even better but appears to be missing pieces.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Snap-On-Steering-Wheel-Puller-With-Original-Metal-Case-Blue-Point-/380428382613?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item58934c7195&vxp=mtr

http://vintagesnapon.com/catalogs/catalogs.php?loggedin=0&catalogPage=1257

[Dodgeb4ya]

Thanks Ed, I saw those and more but no miller. Here is one that is missing the shaft protectors-I could make them up on a lathe I suppose.

[Young Ed]

I think you'd be doing an aweful lot of pieces to fill in that snapon set. Too bad that'd be a good one to have if it was complete.

[HanksB3B]

Ed,

The second tool is exactly what I don't want. Fiifty pieces, fourty two of which you will never use. The "C" clamp (while it's debatable if it'll extract a wheel that's never been removed in over half a century) looks like I can just keep it in my underseat road tool kit.

I'm thinking if the wheel goes back on with Anti-Seize compound there's a chance it could be removed easily when/if required. At present my wheel could be centered a little better to match this interior picture:

Hank

[55 Fargo]

Ed,

The second tool is exactly what I don't want. Fiifty pieces, fourty two of which you will never use. The "C" clamp (while it's debatable if it'll extract a wheel that's never been removed in over half a century) looks like I can just keep it in my underseat road tool kit.

I'm thinking if the wheel goes back on with Anti-Seize compound there's a chance it could be removed easily when/if required. At present my wheel could be centered a little better to match this interior picture:

Hank

Sure that clamp should work, tighten it up , hit the turn screw with a hammer, to jar it some. Infact I gotta big clamp that will be made into one of those.

I had to tighten the puller snug on mine, then hit it with a hammer, and bingo right off, and no thread damage either

[pflaming]

These pictures show the detail of my puller. The bolt, washer, shaft centering lock washers, etc. worked. The phillips head centered the point of the puller shaft and the lock washers centered the large washer. I found a bolt with a tapered shoulder which centered the bolt in the washer.

As I write this, one could just find a good bolt that fits into the shaft, add a washer for good measure, make a good imprint with a center punch and that would be simpler and better.

This thread should be renamed, if that's possible, "Ideas for pulling the steering wheel". It's been a fun read. I've learned a great deal.

I put all these pics together so the reader knows what belongs to what.

Edit: I just saw Hank's dash picture. BUCKET SEATS? Now there's a rare item, I'm sure.

Edited November 15, 2017 by pflaming
I changed the last picture. I used the "go advance" feature.

[Young Ed]

These pictures show the detail of my puller. The bolt, washer, shaft centering lock washers, etc. worked. The phillips head centered the point of the puller shaft and the lock washers centered the large washer. I found a bolt with a tapered shoulder which centered the bolt in the washer.

As I write this, one could just find a good bolt that fits into the shaft, add a washer for good measure, make a good imprint with a center punch and that would be simpler and better.

This thread should be renamed, if that's possible, "Ideas for pulling the steering wheel". It's been a fun read. I've learned a great deal.

I put all these pics together so the reader knows what belongs to what.

Edit: I just saw Hank's dash picture. BUCKET SEATS? Now there's a rare item, I'm sure.

Panel trucks came with a bucket seat. The passenger side was optional. They figured if you were out delivering stuff you only needed one seat.

[Young Ed]

Ed,

The second tool is exactly what I don't want. Fiifty pieces, fourty two of which you will never use. The "C" clamp (while it's debatable if it'll extract a wheel that's never been removed in over half a century) looks like I can just keep it in my underseat road tool kit.

Hank

Hank you just need more than one vehicle to make the adaptors necessary. If it was complete I'd be trying to buy it.

[Merle Coggins]

Paul, what's the pill bottle for? Busted knuckles or the headaches?

Merle

[pflaming]

Merle, since you asked, the knuckles! :mad:Hit it with the hand grinder abrassive wheel! Sure glad it missed the knuckle!

Edited April 9, 2012 by pflaming

[Merle Coggins]

Ouch... took the bark right off.

[JBNeal]

Today's cautionary tale:

I picked up a donor steering column, and set out to remove the steering wheel using a bearing splitter and gear puller setup similar to those shown, a setup I've used on three other occasions without problems. But I was in a bit of a hurry and didn't notice that I had booger'd up the steering shaft threads until I tried to remove the wheel from the shaft. Apparently, the bolt & washer I used in the shaft for the puller drive screw were too small and my torque/hammer blow/repeat cycles started to drive the bolt/washer into the shaft, mushrooming the shaft at an angle. I have another steering wheel to pull at some point, and hopefully I'll remember to used a bolt that just fits into the shaft, as well as leaving the steering shaft nut on the shaft but backed off a few turns...as well as taking my time and not trying to muscle the thing off.

[Dodgeb4ya]

The steering wheel nut should be left on loose on the shaft to prevent shaft thread compression while using a puller and shaft protector button. Once the wheel "pops" loose remove the nut and wheel.

[John-T-53]

I've been scrathing my head to figure out some sort of puller tool... but wanted to take a try on an easy way first. Tonight I removed the nut and soaked the splines with some penetrating fluid for about an hour. Then, inserted a large flat screwdriver underneath, between the wheel and column, so the blade touched the metal surface on the back of the wheel. With a light blow from my rawhide mallet, and the wheel popped right off.

Edited May 19, 2012 by John-T-53

[John Mathias]

I've been scrathing my head to figure out some sort of puller tool... but wanted to take a try on an easy way first. Tonight I removed the nut and soaked the splines with some penetrating fluid for about an hour. Then, inserted a large flat screwdriver underneath, between the wheel and column, gave a light blow with my rawhide mallet, and the wheel popper right off.

OOoooh, lucky! I made one very simular to Merle's in the 1st pic. Has worked like a charm on 5 different trucks so far....