ggdad1951 Posted January 26, 2011 Report Posted January 26, 2011 OK, got my new fuel pump the other day, I think it is a very nice part and made in the old US of A. Questions: 1. can I, if I wanted to rob parts from the new one to repair my original? 2. is #1 even a good idea? 3. the "original" one is kicked 60° from the new one...move the new one if I keep it (pretty sure it will work, why was the old one different). Note that it was non functioning, and a electric fuel pump was in-line to supply the engine? 4. does it REALLY matter? Even tho I plan on doing as full of a true resto as I can do? 5. if I use the new one, I'll want to move the fitting on the filter bowl part 90° to match the original, what would I use to seal the threads? Quote
TodFitch Posted January 26, 2011 Report Posted January 26, 2011 You could get a rebuild kit for the old one. Not a bad idea to have it repaired and on the shelf ready to use regardless of what you do to the new one. I'd not rob parts from the new to replace the old. There might be minor differences on the internal parts (valve pieces, etc.) that might make it less than perfect. I personally would not hesitate to remove the cover of the new one and rotate it to match the original. The cover screws go through the diaphragm which should act like a gasket as far as the fastener holes are concerned so I don't think sealant on the screws is necessary. If I recall correctly you need to have the actuating lever in the correct position so that the diaphragm is positioned properly when you bolt the cover on. Its been a long time so I don't remember the details but the instructions with the rebuild kit you'll get for your original one should tell you how. By the way, is the "new" one actually new or could it have been old stock left on the shelf for years? If it was manufactured a while back it might not be up to snuff with regard to proper materials to resist modern gas. Maybe two rebuild kits are in order. Quote
Young Ed Posted January 26, 2011 Report Posted January 26, 2011 OK, got my new fuel pump the other day, I think it is a very nice part and made in the old US of A. Questions:1. can I, if I wanted to rob parts from the new one to repair my original? 2. is #1 even a good idea? 3. the "original" one is kicked 60° from the new one...move the new one if I keep it (pretty sure it will work, why was the old one different). Note that it was non functioning, and a electric fuel pump was in-line to supply the engine? As Tod said probably not a good idea. Buy a kit. The reason some were kicked to the side was to line up with the hole in the splash pans on the frame. Now why Dodge put the hole where it was to need the kick in the first place I don't know. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted January 26, 2011 Author Report Posted January 26, 2011 I got this new one from Roberts, so my guess is that it isn't "old", just "old". I looked online for a while for a rebuild kit and got no where. Hence the new one from Roberts, which looks to be a "universal" type replacement since there are several blind holes on the cover and a plug in the one hole that I will need to swap over to the fitting. I wasn't worried about the cover bolts, but the plug that is on the "top" of the picture by the filter bowl that I will need to move to the visible threaded hole to match up to the old pump So it's as simple as removing the cover and rotating it? Any alignment issues that I might have to worry about with the diaphram and actuating lever? SHOULD it be rotated? Or is tht one of the quirks of my truck that someone did it back in the day for whatever reason? Again, no instructions. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted January 26, 2011 Report Posted January 26, 2011 Like Tod says, yes you can index the new one to match the old one. I had to do that to mine. And to move the inlet fitting to the end, just use a little pipe dope on the fitting threads. I also recommend taking a look at the linkage pivot pin on your new pump. They have a tendency to not stake the pins in place well on these reproduction pumps. Many, including myself, have had problems with the pin walking out and causing pump failure. Stake the pin in place or peen the end over better to avoid failures down the road. Then, call Antique Auto Parts Cellar http://www.maritimedragracing.com/then_and_now_automotive.htm and order up a pump rebuild kit for your old one. Rebuild it and keep it around for a spare. I did that with my old one and kept it in a box under the seat. When the pin came out of my "new" one I had my rebuild "spare" to use at a road side repair. I wasn't stranded for long. Merle Quote
Young Ed Posted January 26, 2011 Report Posted January 26, 2011 Then and now/antique auto cellar has rebuild kits and also heat riser rebuild kits. HA Merle we must have been typing at the same time! Quote
ggdad1951 Posted January 26, 2011 Author Report Posted January 26, 2011 (edited) just plastic media blasted my old one over lunch here at work...dang thing looks NEW! Think I'll try to fix that up and keep the one from Roberts as my back up. thanks guys! PS the Roberts pump had nice peening on the roll pin for the pump lever, I boubt it would/will "fall" out w/o some help! Edited January 27, 2011 by ggdad1951 Quote
DollyDodge Posted January 27, 2011 Report Posted January 27, 2011 I rebuilt my pump from a "then and now" kit and the parts were great. The thing I didn't think about is there is a lot of wear in the housing where the pin goes and it leaks oil a lot. So I am now going to buy a new one and use the old one that I rebuilt as a spare. The rebuild kits from "then and now" are very high quaility. Quote
DollyDodge Posted January 27, 2011 Report Posted January 27, 2011 Here are a couple pictures of my pump showing the internal valves that I replaced and the pump when it was completed. I learned a lot by rebuilding the pump. On my rebuilt kit the pin has clips on each end so the pin can't work out. The original pump had the same set up using copper clips. When I bought the rebuild kit from then and now he said my pump was not original and was likely a replacement from the 1960s era. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted January 27, 2011 Author Report Posted January 27, 2011 you can barely see in my orignal picture a little sticker that was on mine that fell off that it was a "rebuilt"....so I guess we'll see. Still a rebuild is more "factory" than the new ones we can buy, which is what I'm looking for (at least now). Quote
ggdad1951 Posted January 28, 2011 Author Report Posted January 28, 2011 now that it is all clean and purdy, does it make sense to give it a clear coat, or just leave it be? Quote
DollyDodge Posted January 28, 2011 Report Posted January 28, 2011 If you look at my picture of the completed pump you will see a tag next to it as well. I used that number that was on the pump when I first ordered a rebuild kit. The kit that came was incorrect, so I sent pictures of my pump with dimensions to Then and Now and he said the number I gave him was the original pump but the pump I showed in the picture did not match that number. So maybe someone took the tag off the original pump and put in on the new one when it was replaced way back when. I don't know. All I know is the pump kit was very good and Then and Now was a lot of help in explaining how to level the surfaces so it sealed well when rebuilt. I didn't put any clear coat on my old pump. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted January 28, 2011 Author Report Posted January 28, 2011 all done and reassembled...pretty easy except getting the diaphragm stem to latch back on the cam arm...all by "feel", it seems to "click" on and I should be good to go! Quote
Frank Ollian Posted January 30, 2011 Report Posted January 30, 2011 DollyDodge, what was the price of the rebuild kit from Then and Now? I would like to try this, have done many different carbs but never a fuel pump. Frank Quote
ggdad1951 Posted January 30, 2011 Author Report Posted January 30, 2011 they have a range...from like $25 to $50 Mine was ~$38 Quote
1952 Fargo Posted January 31, 2011 Report Posted January 31, 2011 I've given a lot of my parts , fuel pump, horn relay, brass fittings etc., a quick spray of clear coat. Makes things look good and neat. Quote
DollyDodge Posted January 31, 2011 Report Posted January 31, 2011 I can't remember what I paid, but it was under $50 Quote
DLK Posted February 15, 2011 Report Posted February 15, 2011 Then and now/antique auto cellar has rebuild kits and also heat riser rebuild kits. HA Merle we must have been typing at the same time! Ed if you have done this - how hard was it? I have read here and elsewhere that some of the replacement units are junk so I was thinking of rebuilding mine and carrying a new unit as a spare. I suppose if I read enough threads there probably are recommendations on where to buy a decent new pump. Quote
Young Ed Posted February 15, 2011 Report Posted February 15, 2011 Ed if you have done this - how hard was it? I have read here and elsewhere that some of the replacement units are junk so I was thinking of rebuilding mine and carrying a new unit as a spare. I suppose if I read enough threads there probably are recommendations on where to buy a decent new pump. Yup I did mine and Dad has done a bunch of them for his cars and others in the club. If it were me I'd buy two kits rebuild two pumps and forget the new ones altogether. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted February 16, 2011 Author Report Posted February 16, 2011 Ed if you have done this - how hard was it? I have read here and elsewhere that some of the replacement units are junk so I was thinking of rebuilding mine and carrying a new unit as a spare. I suppose if I read enough threads there probably are recommendations on where to buy a decent new pump. took me longer to clean the pump up that it took to rebuild it...SUPER easy! Quote
jpartington Posted May 1, 2020 Report Posted May 1, 2020 I purchased a rebuild kit from then and now, seems like a very nice kit. I replaced the spring in the rocker arm and the spring that came with the new kit seems to be a bit looser then the stock one that’s on it. Did anyone else experience this? Also the bolt holes in the diaphragm seem to be in the incorrect places. Anyone experience this? Quote
Merle Coggins Posted May 1, 2020 Report Posted May 1, 2020 I had one that the spring fit loose. The original spring was missing as the fulcrum pin had come out of the pump and I nearly lost the arm. They informed me that it would be OK as once it is installed the spring will be compressed and will stay in place. The diaphragms have always been spot on though. Maybe you got the wrong kit? How did you identify the pump to know which kit to get? Quote
jpartington Posted May 1, 2020 Report Posted May 1, 2020 I called and he asked a whole herd of questions to nail done that it was the right one. Quote
Fernando Mendes Posted May 1, 2020 Report Posted May 1, 2020 New valves,diphragm and gaskets.Original CARTER pump.Running fine since may 2017. Quote
jpartington Posted May 3, 2020 Report Posted May 3, 2020 Here is what it looks like with the diaphragm installed. The holes need to be rotated 30 degrees. Could I just poke new holes? Or would that hurt it. Quote
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