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How far gone is too far?


Rodney Bullock

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Brazing in fact refers to the temperature involved in the bonding process. Soldering is low temperature (Tin/Lead), Brazing involves base metal temps of over 1000deg F but not as high as base metal melting point (starting for steel at about a dull red in low light) and Welding requires the base metal to melt together for the bond (usually along with a filler of similar composition).

It is commonly done with a torch, but can be acheived by other methods if the base metal can be brought to the correct temperature.

Brazing requires filler as the process bonds the base metal to the filler through capillary action. It can be done with silver brazing rod, brass rod, etc. It also requires flux to prevent oxidation at the bonding point.

Most common examples are in home A/C systems where the copper joints are silver brazed. If you have seen metal repair like Don showed with the gold colored filler, that is brazed.

It can be a very handy skill and is in fact a very strong joint if done properly.

The nice thing is it requires less heat to make the joint. The metal must be absolutely clean and proper flux used for a strong joint though.

I too have seen paint issues over brazed joints as time has gone by. I believe the flux is to blame. With proper prep, I suspect it could be avoided.

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I thought I'd revive this thread since I'm considering the purchase of a complete wreck, as shown. I don't have the skills yet for a car this far gone, but I love these cars and there are not many around. I paid a deposit to the current owners in exchange for a 6-month period to consider whether to go through with the purchase. Besides the condition of the car, title may also be an issue.

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When I see what some of you have done, I am encouraged. I found and bought a door so that issue is over. Every one who sees it says it's "cool", my wife has hidden my nitro tablets. :D

The engine pictures came out of my cleaned up '52 Pilot-house. I put the head back on and the engine started! later I took it down to the crank. Since I had that experience, this vert did not discourage me.

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Edited by pflaming
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I paid a deposit to the current owners in exchange for a 6-month period to consider whether to go through with the purchase.

I wouldn't deliberate for six months before deciding which way to go. I've heard many stories where buyers have lost a car if a better offer is received or for other reasons.

Another thing to consider is how difficult would it be to get a valid title in your state without prior paperwork. Some states are relatively easy, and others can be a nightmare. It pays to do some homework.

As far as the car itself, I'd say go for it. The satisfaction of reviving a rare car is worth the effort.

Harold

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I thought I'd revive this thread since I'm considering the purchase of a complete wreck, as shown. I don't have the skills yet for a car this far gone, but I love these cars and there are not many around. I paid a deposit to the current owners in exchange for a 6-month period to consider whether to go through with the purchase. Besides the condition of the car, title may also be an issue.

Is that a 1942? it is so nice. When this thead was first written I was working on my plymouth. Wow Time flies. Your Chrysler is so rare when you go to shows no one will have one. A friend of mine has a convert 42 Chrysler. He is still looking for parts. I have learned that as we go on in life we get better at the impossible all the time:o

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It's a 1946. I don't plan to take the whole 6 months to decide but have that long if necessary. Part of the reason for the time is to hopefully get my wife to warm up to the idea. She was adamant about not buying it outright, but was OK with the option. The "it's about the same as a pair of boots and a haircut" argument didn't work very well.

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Get the car, you can get forgiveness far easier then permission. The 46-48 Chrysler biz coupes are rare, and the good new is, a lot if not most parts from the other models fit, with the exception of the trunk lid.

Buy the car, you won't be sorry, I have a 47 Chrysler Royal Club Coupe, that was worse than that, and I still fixed it up pretty good myself.

What is it, Royal,Windsor or New Yorker? the 1st 2 have 6s and a shorter length in the front sheet metal, the latter has the 8 and longer front sheet metal, the 8 could bea little more difficult for parts and such, but not the 6s...Good Luck, buy the car, you will be happy, and very busy

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I think the bottom of that business coupe may be a little worse off than yours was Fred. Look at the drivers side rocker. Its not really there anymore. That doesn't mean its not fixable though. I think from the looks of the hood its a new yorker which has got to be rare.

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I think the bottom of that business coupe may be a little worse off than yours was Fred. Look at the drivers side rocker. Its not really there anymore. That doesn't mean its not fixable though. I think from the looks of the hood its a new yorker which has got to be rare.

Very True Ed, and it is a New Yorker by the looks and length, Mine were all rotten too, replaced it all, both sides. These cars are full framed, if the frame is good, he can have new rockers made, or do it himself, if he is inclined.

These cars rot typically along the rockers, outer sill area, and the toe kick area. The frame I would be the most concerned, as well as all body mounts, and the front cowl supports and mounts. The outer floor supports that mount with rockers might be rotted, those are fixable, some work to be done for sure...

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It's a 1946. I don't plan to take the whole 6 months to decide but have that long if necessary. Part of the reason for the time is to hopefully get my wife to warm up to the idea. She was adamant about not buying it outright, but was OK with the option. The "it's about the same as a pair of boots and a haircut" argument didn't work very well.

That is so funny, I never let my wife see a project because bless her she does not have vision:oOnce it's finished and we ride she is very happy.

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My 65 GTO was "too far gone" as it had sat in a ravine for decades. Being used for target practice. With a big pine tree laying across the roof... $50 for a title, cut the roof off and added structural supports from a convertible chassis, added the soft top, tuned it up. and sold it for $5K as a fixer upper.

My 32 Victoria is too far gone, but it runs and drives. No paint, no glass, no interior. Apple crate bolted to the floor pan to drive it around the pasture. Left it with the uncle who foisted it off on me when I was a kid, I don't feel like patching 700+ bullet holes.

My D100 needs floor pans, door repairs and a full rewire. Plus next to impossible to find bed ends...

My 49 truck needs rewired, rust repair in the front fenders and doors, bed floor, interior, brakes, tires (have 5 nice ones thanks to a local forum member who wishes to remain nameless), suspension overhaul, engine number 3 to be swapped in (after I get the donor 230 cleaned, painted and back to 100 percent)... Grandpa bought it new and my younger brother has a 2 year old gearhead daughter who will be the 4th generation to drive it.

My fairly rare 1963 Honda Scrambler (250 parallel twin with right side chain) is too far gone to restore, but it is shaping up to be quite the entertaining street legal dirt track race bike build.

Too far gone? All a matter of perspective. Not everything has to go back to 100% stock...;)

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The 1946-8 Chrysler 3 passenger coupe cars are highly collectable today. They came in the six cylinder models-Royal (1221 built) and Windsor (1980 built). The 8 cylinder models were very low production and came in the Saratoga (74 Built) and the upper model NewYorker (701 built).

I sold a complete 1948 chrysler 4 door floor pan to a Canadian for use to replace his completely rusted out 1947 3 pass 6 cylinder coupe. All big body 1946-8 MoPar floor pans use the same stampings except convertibles so floor/rocker repairs can be accomplished using stock good floor pan metal from even a Dodge or Desoto sedan or 6 passenger coupe.

The eights use heavier suspension and a 6 inch longer frame and front sheet metal. I would not bother on severe rust out on a four door or regular coupe if severely rusted out IMO.

Shown is my 1946 NewYorker 3 passenger coupe someday I might restore when I have the time and desire and a customers shorter Windsor six cylinder 3 passenger coupe just finished.

Bob

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
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The 1946-8 Chrysler 3 passenger coupe cars are highly collectable today. They came in the six cylinder models-Royal (1221 built) and Windsor (1980 built). The 8 cylinder models were very low production and came in the Saratoga (74 Built) and the upper model NewYorker (701 built).

I sold a complete 1948 chrysler 4 door floor pan to a Canadian for use to replace his completely rusted out 1947 3 pass 6 cylinder coupe. All big body 1946-8 MoPar floor pans use the same stampings except convertibles so floor/rocker repairs can be accomplished using stock good floor pan metal from even a Dodge or Desoto sedan or 6 passenger coupe.

The eights use heavier suspension and a 6 inch longer frame and front sheet metal. I would not bother on severe rust out on a four door or regular coupe if severely rusted out IMO.

Shown is my 1946 NewYorker 3 passenger coupe someday I might restore when I have the time and desire and a customers shorter Windsor six cylinder 3 passenger coupe just finished.

Bob

Hey Bob, good ideas, as the poster did not post any floor pics, we have no idea what He has. I know mine needed rockers, toe kick area, and under back seat, trunk pan too. Lots of welding, but not a bad job. I also know of someone, who has done the whole floor pan swap, and He stated, it was not bad at all, so it can be done.

I love these Coupes, and sure wish I had 1, but most likely never will, and our Biz Coupe is in nice form, they aren't all gonna come that way.

Sure hope this coupe gets restored to it's former glory, and not hotrodded, but even if it were hotrodded, it would be saved at least....

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there are probably better examples out there..but for what money...sad part is on a convertible you only see part of the struture damage with the naked eye..any car for that matter..if you have access to panels and parts then maybe a effort to save it is in order but again, cost to buy, cost for parts, cost to rebuild must all be taken into consideration..and the fact is car prices have continually been dropping at all the car shows I have attended of late..foir a keeper you may try to shoot for break even and drive you money out of it...for a resale...be sure you look at it real close and in person before commiting..this is just my take on the matter....

as for the Chrysler bz cp..they are nice but I can see that the rockers are history from the pictures...while not a major issue...I have found such cars have even more damage deep withing the cowl and the trorque box of the body....floor condition will probably reflect about 1/3 of the threashhold/inner rocker/floor pan area as toast also..

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If a buyer has deep pockets buy the rusty car and pay someone to fix it. But then if you have deep pockets why not buy a good car?

There was a fairly well to do man here in the Seattle area who bought two extremely rotten and no floor pan Town and Country converts just for the challenge to prove he himself could bring both of them back to their former glory. He did and they are beautifully done both wood, underneath and outside sheet metal. Probably wasn't very cost effective but he saved a couple junk yard cars and had fun doing it-I hope!

If you cannot do a good proper rust repair job by yourself you will pay dearly. I prefer rust free cars. My coupe has floor rust but it was too rare and odd of a car to pass up and let go. These Chrysler business coupe's seem to keep holding up in price because they are so odd and ugly! Several have gone over seas to Europe including a local 1947 Saratoga coupe and 1942 Desoto 5th Ave.business coupe a friend of mine sold a few years back at a very premium price.

Bob

Bob

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Been following this discussion because of my vert purchase. I doubt there is any common rationale for restoring most cars. I needed a project and old cars has become a passion for me. I figured I would not do a truck again so when I saw this vert my rationale was that it was a dodge truck with different fenders and top and would be a fun car when finished. If it has more value than what I put into it so much the better, but it is not mandatory. So to me it's the love of the chase more than the finish line yet that is important.

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Been following this discussion because of my vert purchase. I doubt there is any common rationale for restoring most cars. I needed a project and old cars has become a passion for me. I figured I would not do a truck again so when I saw this vert my rationale was that it was a dodge truck with different fenders and top and would be a fun car when finished. If it has more value than what I put into it so much the better, but it is not mandatory. So to me it's the love of the chase more than the finish line yet that is important.

and buying for just those reason stated and with the attitutude to succeed...you ought to do well with your project..keep or flip...

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Thanks for all the encouragement and tips. I'm not getting a lot of support at home for it and people at work think I'm nuts. So it's good to hear from folks who love cars. I've really been encouraged watching pflaming go to work on that convertible.

Yes, it's a New Yorker and the rockers are toast. I've got a few more pictures and the driver side floor and rockers and body mounts are basically missing all the way to the frame. I don't have a good picture of the passenger side but I assume it's the same. It's been stored outside, probably on dirt, for a long time. The engine and transmission don't come with it, although the engine may still be in the area with the third to last owner. He offered to sell it to the current owners a while back but they declined. Supposedly most of the trim is in the trunk.

I'm starting a welding/metalworking class tomorrow night.

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darn it! i don't have an after pic:(..i don't know when i'll get back to cutting/fitting/welding on my '51..these last couple of years through me some curve balls..plus me '33 Chrysler is a lot more complete and has a lot less rust repair to do..and has been in the stable longer..plus i got some old fords that i got to do too:eek:

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I thought I'd revive this thread since I'm considering the purchase of a complete wreck, as shown. I don't have the skills yet for a car this far gone, but I love these cars and there are not many around. I paid a deposit to the current owners in exchange for a 6-month period to consider whether to go through with the purchase. Besides the condition of the car, title may also be an issue.

i was wondering why that cl was no were to be found..so long has it has the trunk..i would have no problem buying it..besides having no money or place to put it.. good thing about the car if the wife really don't like it at least you got a place to sleep:rolleyes: remember it's always easier to ask for forgiveness then permission:D far as taking a welding class good for you..fyi welding cars your not always running stringers your doing a series of tacks..but you'll learn more as you go:) Benny

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