mrwrstory Posted November 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 What is the front suspension from?.......thanks, andyd I took the opportunity that the above question asked, to attach this lucky shot that I think is really cool! To the question, It's a Kugel Komponents kit,...not necessarily made for P-15's. It's geometry is basically Mustang II. I patched it in retaining the Plymouth core support and fender/splash panel mounting holes. Note about half of the original spring pocket detail just ahead of the upper A arm pivot bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted November 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 Here's the latest. Made a second trip to the wrecking yard to exchange the cool manifolds for these center dump pieces. Theyre not bad, especially for an interim solution. Lotsa clearance and I will clean and paint them before final installation. - Another goof that I have to own up to is that I assembled the engine, trans and torque converter incorrectly. I had always heard that one should not pull the engine and trans together using the bell housing bolts. I respected that but was ignorant of the dictum that the torque converter must be mounted to the trans,....and then attached to the flex plate after the bellhousing bolts are cinched down. A good friend who is also a crack general repair guy said, by the sequence I took, I may have damamged the front pump in the trans. So,....today was spent pulling the engine and trans, removing the trans from the engine, visiting the trans shop (who confirmed my ignorance) but also determined that I didn't break anything, and then reassembling the engine torque converter and trans in the proper sequence and then reinstalling the whole package. I guess I can feel good that I it all done in one day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deathbound Posted November 19, 2011 Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 At least you realized before it was too late. Very nice build! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted November 19, 2011 Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 Bill, o/k.........here come all the questions.........lol........... 1. who mounted the front end?. 2. is this on the 1940 Plymouth thats pictured in your bio?, if not what? 3. any chance on more pics of the front end mounting, especially the bracketry, etc. 4. this is the 1st time I have seen an aftermarket front end mounted onto the original chassis without cutting all the front crossmember away........you are to be commended, an excellent piece of work......lol.........more pics needed..lol 5. and more pics, info, etc ....... whatever you'd like to expand on..........lol.......great job....many thanks, Andy Douglas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted November 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 Andy, expedited answers.... #1-I mounted the Kugel Komponents IFS. #2-It's a 48 P-15 Club Coupe. The 40 is next. #3-For more pics, check http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v92/wstory/PlyProj2011/ they are more or less in reverse order. #4-see #3 #5-I will post more, as updates, as the Persistant Plymouth Project Progresses. I note that you are a Aussie. For you and any others who might enjoy similar postings, check http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/group.php?groupid=149 It's a fun group of Old Farts. Besides mine, there are two other projects documented i.e. "Project 33" and "Project 32 for me",....Aussie entries. I wanted to contribute something with the steering wheel on the other side of the drive line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted November 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 (edited) Ta Daaaaaa! - - - Another milestone. Edited November 22, 2011 by mrwrstory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted December 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2011 Got back into the 3x2 setup to figger out how to make it run. Found the receipt and the company that sold it to me 8 years ago is still around. They said that, except for the manifold rework, it was ready to go as a legit "tri power" with primary and secondary carbs and progressive linkage acting as a system. So all I gotta do now is modify the manifold and replace some gaskets. The plenum below the ports is large enough to accomodate this change with grace. The reason for doing this is to allow the carbs to be evenly spaced. I've been opening boxes of parts purchased years ago to discover a lot of cool stuff I'd forgotten about. It's like Christmas. These ARP head bolts are like jewelry. They're almost to nice too cover up. - Heads are torqued for the next to last time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted December 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2011 Here's the modified intake manifold. I've decided to paint it to contrast the polished aluminum valve covers and the shiney stuff on the carbs and air cleaners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted December 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2011 Decided since my wife is away for the day to fix me a coupla steaks. It's her grill and she doesn't allow much in the way of red meat. Just hope she doesn't smell them when she returns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted January 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 Was forgiven for the use of the barbie but, I gotta do it again . May have been the smoke that turned the cast iron color to golden brown. Good for steaks but not so good for a blue and gray engine compartment. I have recoated them my second choice, black. I hope that the second bake will go better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted January 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 I'm also anticipating mounting the core support and radiator for start-up. I'd always figgered the the V8 to be shorter than the flat head,....but not so sure now,....looking at the fan and crank pulleys relative to the front cross member. Would someone kindly shoot a pic of the radiator, core support, splash (inner fender) panel interface(s) of their stock setup. Something with the fenders and grill off would be best, if available. I don't have a P-15 factory manual but, would imagine there would be an exploded view, of this area, there too. Any input would be greatly appreciated,....thanks:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 When I installed my long block Desoto engine I had to modify the front crossmember for clearance. I also had to reverse the radiator support bracket and move the radiator 2" forward. You may have to do the same. I also had to trim the front splash pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 Something like these maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted January 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 Thanks for the pics guys. Don, I'm remembering something about mounting the radiator on the forward side of the core support for the longer engine. Is that what you did? Is it just a matter of a different mounting hole choice while the core support remains in the stock P-15 location? Does that forward location of the radiator have any affect on the rest of the front sheet metal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted January 3, 2012 Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 Thanks for the pics guys. Don, I'm remembering something about mounting the radiator on the forward side of the core support for the longer engine. Is that what you did? Is it just a matter of a different mounting hole choice while the core support remains in the stock P-15 location? Does that forward location of the radiator have any affect on the rest of the front sheet metal? I had to knotch my inner fenders slightly to allow the radiator to drop in. Also the top support bracket shown in Ed's picture on the front side is now on the back side. I did this for room for an electric pusher fan. I am not using a belt driven fan. I also modified the radiator support bracket as pictured below. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted January 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 Please forgive my dim "wittedness" but I'm still not getting the idea of where the radiator is mounted. I see the mods to the cross member and the core support. It appears that the core support is mounted in the stock location and you've done some creative "nibbling" to clear the crank pulley. Understanding that the stock fan may contact the radiator (because of it's diameter), does the fan pulley clear the radiator in its' stock location,......or is the radiator moved forward? Without the electric fan, would it have been necessary to modify the sheet metal ahead of the radiator? With all that said, I think it's really cool that we are exploring problems and solutions via this website. In some respects such an interface is a bit abstract but I, for one, enjoy the challenge of the verbal exchange in order to solve a problem,....not to mention my personal challenge of doing it via a keyboard and monitor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted January 3, 2012 Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 If you install that U "backwards" the radiator moves forward. I believe thats what Don and others who install the longer 6 have done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted January 3, 2012 Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 Note the captive nuts on the lower flange (there are actually 3 on each side) in the picture below. These nuts are used to secure the radiator core to this bracket. In stock configuration these nuts are inside the channel on the engine side. By flipping this bracket the captive nuts are now on the grill side thus effectively moving the radiator two inches towards the grill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted January 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2012 Thanks Guys Next coupla days I'll be up in the rafters retrieving the radiator, core support and inner fender panels and mocking up the assembly. In the meantime I'm designing/fabricating an alternator bracket. Pics of that in a few days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted January 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 Hi All, I have not been loafing but, it seems the harder I work lately, behinder I get. I'm reminded that Detroit put a lot of thought into every nut, bolt and bracket the goes into a car. And, if you approach the modification of any assembly too casually, ya may end up with a something less than what you visualized. I've made way too many trips to the wrecking yard since I last reported in. I will spare you the details but it goes something like, "don't assume interchangability just because it's a small block Mopar." Here's the latest. "Twas a bitch getting everything square, parallel and plumb. And it was like the proverbial 10 lbs of ^*#* in a 5 lb bag. with the oil dip stick, fuel line, regulator, and alternator wanting to be in the same place. - with the core support reversed, there is a generous 2" for the fan. Note also the second color of the exhaust manifold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockable Posted January 13, 2012 Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 Bill, I'm going to put AC in my car and I need to mount the AC compressor on the Passenger Side. Right now, my alternator is there. Did Mopar make any alternator brackets for the Driver's side? Or am I going to have to do what you have done and fabricate my own AC and Alternator brackets? Thanks, Rock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted January 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 Rock, I don't have enough experience to answer your question. I'd just go to the wrecking yard and start looking under hoods. Be forewarned, 318's and 360 small blocks have diff. pulley diameters, off-sets and bolt patterns,....just enough to screw you up if you're not careful. I found that out the hard way. Don't know where 340's fall but it would be prudent to get everything off the donor car/engine. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 check with a number of AC makers..they offer install kits for Mopar now..yeah, slow in coming but have seen them now..everything you need to mount the popular Sandon compressor..they sell this hardware kit separate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveplym Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 Hey Bill. I am envious of your work. Car is coming along nicely. Just wondering if the Chevy small block would have been any easier? Seems like things interchange with GM better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Elder Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 Nothing is better with GM in a Mopar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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