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SBF in a Mopar?


Ryan Robbins

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So I'm toying around with the idea of putting a V8 into my 47 Plymouth. I already have the flathead rebuilt with dual carbs and a split manifold. But the power just isn't what I want. I've been doing a lot of searching and I know a 318 with dart/valiant manifolds fits almost perfectly into the engine compartment. However, I don't have this motor/transmission, but do have a 302 thats been rebuilt with a couple extra horses waiting for a home.

My question is if anyone has seen or actually done this swap? I'm sure I'd have to offset the engine 1-2" but looking for any info to see if its a possibility, clearance issues, foreseeable problems, etc.. I would really like to keep the original steering and not go the rack and pinion route.

I know everyone wants to keep a mopar in a mopar, but its a matter of what is available to me as well, and at least its not a SBC. Again, not actually saying I'm going this route, just toying with the idea and trying to get some feedback and ideas.

Thanks in advance.... and let the bashing begin:eek:!

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HOWEVER....except for the fact you may have one of these just laying around or given to you...with the ford you face the exact same disadvantage mounting the ford as the mopar as they are about exact in dimesnions and the long long front mounted water pump makes retro fitting a challenge and dictates either firewall change, radiator forward positioning and or both..the source for the best answer to fitting is no longer available to my unsterstanding so..unless you got lucky and found one at a swap meet....or have the drawings to duplicate..and..you still have the steering to overcome...

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Guess the first thing to do is measure the ford engine bellhousing to fan, and see if the stock oil pan will clear all the stuff hanging down under the engine.

It is pretty common to offset the mopar engine to the pass side to clear the steering box. But with time and money and inginuity just about anything's possible.

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I'd sell the ferd and buy a real V8 like a 360 or 340. In fact I would go with a Poly. It would definitely be more expensive but the cool factor would be 3X the ferd.

Now that is the best suggestion....Poly motors can be picked up cheap, since for most people they are not even on the radar. Guys been trying to sell a complete rebuilt 301 poly motor for a couple years on the local Craigslist...good price but no bites.

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I ran a flatty in my coupe for 12 years. Edmunds head, Offy two carb intake, Isky Cam and split manifold. As fast as the V8 I have in it now, but better MPG and a wow factor. Beat a 289 Mustang to about 70mph.

SBF is a long motor, oil pan is an issue, but weighs less then most V8's. Steering is the toughest problem as the box sits high and about midway down the side of a V8. I did the Chevy route cause that is what I could afford. Had to cut and weld the drivers side exhaust manifold to clear steering box and shaft. Had to use 1978-86 Malibu cast iron exhaust as the engine bay was too narrow to clear anything else. Ford will be narrower, but water pump and timing covers are long. Snow white makes a kit to relocate the pump to help that out.

Go with what you have and want. It's your hot rod.

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Go with what you have and want. It's your hot rod.

That is a very true statement, but when people just walk by it and look under the hood they will keep walking. In my opinion the ford is the worst looking motor to put in one. I should have donated these 318's and 273's i just scraped to these guys that want to put a v8 in but complain a Mopar cost to much.:rolleyes:This is just my opinion and opinions may vary by attitude!:D

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That is a very true statement, but when people just walk by it and look under the hood they will keep walking. In my opinion the ford is the worst looking motor to put in one. I should have donated these 318's and 273's i just scraped to these guys that want to put a v8 in but complain a Mopar cost to much.:rolleyes:This is just my opinion and opinions may vary by attitude!:D

Just to confuse the issue I welded up a pair of steel valve covers that used DIRECT CONNECTION tops on Chevy bottoms and a Road Runner Pie Tin on the air cleaner. Looks right. Just bought a set of Aluminum MOPAR PERFORMANCE finned covers and will do the same there. Back of my Plymouth has a Canadian Dodge brake light to, so I get 'em going front to back..;)

The cost to do the MOPAR engine swap,mounts, build the motor/trans, intakes, exhaust, dissy, etc was more then double the cost of the Chevy swap. I had a friend doing a 318/340/360 (I don't remember which engine) swap the same time I did my Chevy and we compared our progress and expenses. Heck, he was even getting the good guy price since he was a magazine editor and was doing his as the magazines feature.

Edited by hotrodbob
ms spillin
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Brian, I agree with you, but in my younger years:confused:it was the easiest way for me to go. :rolleyes:I had a fixed budget and the goal was a 20MPG V8 car. I did the entire swap for less then $2000 parts and labor (exhaust, welding ). This was not possible with a MOPAR swap. I did all the work I could. My buddy that did the MOPAR swap on his never saw better then 15 mpg and spent lots more.

Would I do it this way again? Maybe not, but 15 years ago, it was the best thing for me to do.

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Hotrodbob,

Any pics of that exhaust manifold work and how it sits in the car?

By the way, very nice looking coupe you have.

Thanks..I love my coupe. Other then the wife and kids, never kept anything that long:D

Sorry, no pics of the manifolds. They were the narrowest I could find and they came with the engine donor car. It was a 1978-86 Chevelle/El Camino body. I used the '78 as it had no smog holes in them. They were less the 3 inches wide. On the steering side we welded in a 6-8inch extension and angled it away from the steering box. I may have set my engine back a inch to far and that caused the clearance issue. They do not drop down until the outlet. Straight across above the ports. Not a rams horn or drop at each port.

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I never did throw an engine but I have picked a couple of them up. Is tool ownership a requirement to post on this forum?

Time for a new thread.

the only tools you will need for this forum are a pc/ mac/ linus capable machine and a interent connection, but you might want to have a screw driver laying around if the computer should break, or your wirless mouse runs out of battery.........

go with a ford block turbo, lets do it right you should be able to get some more power then a 218 ..

you think jet hot would work on those headers?

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the only tools you will need for this forum are a pc/ mac/ linus capable machine and a interent connection, ........

All of these machines you mentioned come with a spell check tool. Do you know how to use it:D

Even this forum has a spell check tool if you know where to find it and how to use it.spelling.gif

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