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PatrickG

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Everything posted by PatrickG

  1. Smooth driving to you, Don. Your expertise and generosity has helped get many of these old flatheads on the road and the world is better for it.
  2. Search for "exhaust collector donut gasket" With that style gasket you will have no issues with the warped flange.
  3. Hi guys. Credit to Bob for bring me back to life. Wow. Been a long long time. As a matter of fact I have just recently started working on this car again. Around the time that I last posted, looks like over 5 years ago, I had just fired the motor for the first time and things were looking good. What shortly followed afterwards was not so good. I got about 30 minutes of breaking in the motor and putting around the block, when it developed a funky sound and proceeded to eat itself alive. I am not exactly sure what I did wrong but surveying the damage, and it being the first motor I had ever torn apart and put back together, I am fairly certain I installed a bearing upside down, preventing proper oil flow, which made short work of my freshly rebuilt flathead. -___- At the time I was working very hard on my degree, and as a result not very hard on my bank account. Another rebuild of the engine was just not in the cards and so this car sat patiently in the garage waiting for something to happen. BUT, here we are: 5 years, 2 engineering degrees, and 3 places of residence later, I have my own garage again, an awesome job as a mechanical engineer for Tesla Motors, and most importantly, a little bit of money to burn on the addiction we all share to old cars . Rest assured my plymouth did not get an electric motor, but another rebuild on that old flathead, hopefully the last one it will need for many years. For you viewing pleasure, here I am struggling to back into my tiny garage with a clutch that needs adjustment and no rearview mirrors... https://youtu.be/5m6oZZGDaKM I want to keep the momentum going and get this thing on the road asap, so there should be less than 5 years between now and my next update. Cheers, Pat
  4. Grundy has a different underwriter for agreed values above 20,000. So if you set your agreed value above 20k, you will actually end up with a lower premium. I haven't tried this in awhile but it worked back when I was quoting different rates. So it may be worth a shot
  5. i wouldnt think the oil pan would be a problem... old ones are front sump if you needed that, fox body 302's are rear sump if you needed that. summit racing would have either i bet, pan and pickup
  6. i used this alternator: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFF-7509RADP/?rtype=10 and this voltage regulator http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-4529794/ used the stock bracket, with a piece of threaded rod and cut down tube to adapt it to the bracket with the pulley in line with the water pump and crank pulley. also had to cut off the nub/material sticking out past the pulley groove you can see in the picture. credit to blueskies for this. (its where i saw it at least) Not much work and is a good price for how nice the alternator looks.
  7. and no more than three pats on the back! any more and it becomes awkward....
  8. Ahhh I wasn't paying attention when I visited that link, and assumed it was the seller's listing. Will try out the mitchell ones I think...
  9. the link posted only lists covers up through 1948, any idea if the trunion joints are the same for a 1950? the rubber covers for mine are toast, after 0 miles
  10. I have heard that if the diaphragm in the mechanical pump ruptures and you turn on the electric pump, fuel can leak into the crank case, and dilute the oil, leading to rapid engine bearing wear. But while it seems possible, I can't verify at this is a real risk, as I read it likely here or the hamb, and am not sure if it was a first hand story or not, I just always think of it when I see questions about running both types of pumps in series Anybody else heard of this happening?
  11. Also theses flatheads seem to have much lower numbers than other engines. As I stated above my mustang runs best with around 38 degrees advance (measured by the crank) and the consensus for flatheads seems to be less than half that, measured the same way (at the crank)
  12. the theory is that at part throttle the mixture quality of the air and fuel is not as good, and the combustion chamber is not filled up all the way, therefore it takes longer for the mixture to fully burn, allowing ignition to happen a lot earlier. (distributor can advance the spark) Regarding ported vacuum vs manifold vacuum, there isnt really any right vs wrong. Using manifold vacuum allows higher part throttle and idle advance, then as the throttle opens it will back off the advance (better mixture), but you gain some of it back as the rpm's go up.( fuel burns at same speed, but motor spins faster) Ported vacuum reduces vacuum at idle, and as you give more throttle the port is exposed to more and more manifold vacuum, then somewhere as you go from idle and wot, ported and manifold become the same. Which one you use depends on the motor, and any modifications done to it. My mustang for example ran fine with ported vacuum and about 10 degrees initial advance. I recently put a new motor in with a lot more cam and compression, and now the thing simply will not idle without 20 degrees initial advance and manifold vacuum. Same size motor, same intake and carb etc. cam and compression being the only real change. Really if you've made any changes to your flathead, not to mention the fact that modern fuel is nothing like the leaded fuel Chrysler's engineers designed these motors around, you can use the factory setting as a baseline, but I'll bet there will be some tweaking involved to really make your motor run at its best.
  13. Easy answer, No. The amount of offset, if any, depends on the car, some cars even have the motor and pinion offset different amounts, they are always parallel though. **edit: I didnt even notice you were asking specifically about a 49 P19, but I still believe the answer is no they are not.
  14. Clevite also has a really good bearing analysis page with just about every cause of bearing failure and pictures and explanation of each case, so you can compare your bearings to find out what may have gone wrong. http://catalog.mahleclevite.com/bearing/
  15. Clevite Part Numbers: Rod Bearing Set: CB-60G ......available in std 10 20 30 40 50 60 undersize Main Bearing Set: MS-523P-10 .........avail 20 and 30 under main #1: MB-2011P main 2-3: MB-2012P main 4: MB-122P(f) Cam Bearing set: SH-23S the main and rod bearings are trimetal, the cam bearings are bimetal. Also available are piston pins, these numbers are all on the clevite master catalog here, http://www.mahleclevite.com/publications/EB-10-07.pdf (dial up warning, its 800 pages and 8 megabits, big file) page 192, chrysler engines block numbers 31 and 32 (canadian)
  16. I'll have to do some digging next weekend when I am at my parents house to to find the actual part numbers, but the bearings in my motor are Clevite's, the tri-metal ones I believe. supplied by the machine shop that reconditioned the crank and rods.
  17. what did you use for flow numbers on the "heads" and intake etc? just curious how you punch in specs for a motor like a flathead on a program like that
  18. Although I'm sure you did the proper break in of the cam, (20 minutes or so over 1800 rpm, proper break in lube, and making sure it started right up the first time, as not to wipe the lube of the cam and lifters before starting) I would still mic all the valves for the max lift to see if the cam wiped. Usually if its going to wipe, it just goes all the way and over a pretty short period, but it wouldn't hurt to check. I remember blueskies opening up his motor and finding what looked like really fine metal accumulated in little corners of the crank case, and If my memory serves me it turned out to be the assembly lube or the cam break in lube. you said the assembly lube you used was white, was the cam break in lube gray or metallic? Its a possibility if you've already eliminated the bearings and the cam. I know the lube that came with the summit racing cam i have in my mustang was a metallic gray. Also I know with aluminum heads you have to be really particular with the way you torque them in order for the head gasket not to blow. If your running compression that is similar to an aluminum head its possible you may have the same issues. Did you retorque the head while hot? Again referencing blueskies I think he torqued his head a few times before it really settled at the right spec.
  19. I would be interested to see a comparison of the crashes per capita between maybe BMW motorcyclers (generally quieter) and Harley guys. I haven't been able to find any real data that proved or disproved the loud pipes save lives mantra, I wonder if that would shed any light. Also somewhat unrelated Tim, I believe those quiet baby boomers you mentioned are also one of the larger demographics of harley riders ;)
  20. Really guys, about the only thing internet explorer is good for is downloading firefox
  21. Are the jack stands under the control arms all the way out under the brakes? If you have them any less than all the way out to the edges the car will not be sitting as low as it will with wheels on and under normal load. Just a possibility..
  22. I think its most likely you still had a few quarts in the block even after draining. It's almost impossible to get all the coolant out of an engine short of removing the block and turning it upside down. Mine does not have an engine block drain plug, only in the radiator, but would think its pretty safe to assume your plug isn't quite at the lowest point of the cooling system in the motor.
  23. Grundy may also be an option. They have no mileage limits or vehicle restrictions, only require that you have a different car you use for everyday things (commute etc)
  24. This may be a silly question, but how does one get the stainless trim attached to the body? I have a box full of clips, but It's been years since I pulled the chrome off of the car and I'm not quite sure which clips were for what, and I'm not using the fender trim which may have added to the confusion. I thought these were the right ones (see photo) but Im having trouble getting the stainless attached to the clip itself. Are they the wrong ones or is there some special method for getting the trim on?? Patrick
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