Ryan Robbins

Ed, I did see your car and your dads, but must have missed you both. Both looking good! Unfortunately I didn't get many pictures at all. I kept going to look at cars without a camera. Did the same thing last year.... but here are a few. The 64 Ford is my dads, and the interior shot I just really liked.

Thanks Bill. Slightly hopped up flathead with overdrive transmission. Picked up my registration for 50's today!! Plan on heading out early tomorrow!

Didn't happen to see a thread on this yet. Anyone planning on going to this years show? This will by my second year in a row actually driving a car and the first with my 47 Plymouth....something I've been trying to do for 15 years!!!!! Very excited and keeping my fingers crossed for a trouble free weekend. If you see this car, stop by.

Here's a couple of mine. 47 Business Coupe

Thanks for all the replies. From the responses and the research I've found, I think its in the switch. Rockauto looks like they have one for around $20. I'll keep you all posted on how it turns out.

So I recently bought a 61 Ford Fairlane and am having a problem with the headlights. The headlights will randomly shut off, they come back on almost instantly though. It only seems to happen after its had a chance to get warm. This happens on both high and low beam but doesn't seem to affect the tail lights. I pulled the switch out and found one wire to be loose, put it back together and went for a test drive. Thought everything was good to go, but after about 10 minutes of driving, they shut off. They do come back on almost right away and will flicker like that for a few cycles. I stopped and checked the connections at the switch. Everything seemed solid and it didn't happen the rest of the ride home(about 10 minutes). Messed with the wires again, tried to get the one that was loose a little more solid and took it for another test drive. Stayed on for 10-15 minutes again, then off/on/off/on for a few cycles and came on solid again for the remainder of the drive home, about 5 minutes. The headlight switch does get pretty dang hot at the back. I'm thinking its in the switch, but before I attempt to find one, does anyone have any possibilities of what it may be? Thanks in advance.

Thanks! Yes, its the stock flathead(my license plate reads STR8 6 ) with split exhaust manifold and a dual intake setup from Langdon. Disc brakes upfront, 12V and soon to be(if everything goes ok) dropped front spindles and an overdrive transmission.

Back to the Fifties is the goal right now, we'll see about August.

Thanks to everyone for all the suggestions. In the end it turned out to be the wrong size push rods on the brake shoes. I never thought there were different sizes as mine were riveted onto the shoes. But I got them off and used the rods that came with the wheel cylinders and the drums slid right on! Got everything bleed and buttoned up and took if for a quick spin to check it all out. Thanks again guys and because we all like pics.......

Thanks Shel. My pins are riveted onto my shoes. I might try and remove them to use the new pins that came with the wheel cylinders. I did see that the cups in the old cylinders had a different shape then the new ones. I'm hoping that the old pins just are fitting all the way into the new cylinders. I didn't realize that the pins didn't need to be attached to the shoes.

As far as the pins being riveted on the shoes, how do they stay on if not riveted. Anyone have a picture of there pin/shoe set up? Maybe thats the issue?

Does the brake line have to be disconnected from the wheel cylinder before you put the shoes on? I pushed the shoes pin all the way into the cylinder, but is it possible with the line connected to have pressure built up in the cylinder causing it to not depress all the way? What was the comment on the pins not fitting new cylinders? Did they not fit or do they? Also, my shoes were all relined with full linings, not the one on each side that is shorter. Is that an issue?

Haven't had a chance to call brake place as they were closed when the problem came up. They will be hearing from me first thing in the morning. I'm sure I'll have to wait and see what they say, but I just wanted to check here to see if that was even a possibility, sounds like it could be. I'm using the old pins that were on the shoes. The pins go pretty deep into the cylinders. I guess I don't recall how close it was before I disassembled, but they are very close to the actual cylinder. The new wheel cylinders did come with new pins, but there are no holes to mount and the old ones are riveted on the shoes. Did I need to replace them? The pins are still in good working order on the current shoes?

So I'm in the process of re-doing my rear brakes on my 47 Plymouth. I have new wheel cylinders and had the drums turned and new linings on the shoes at a shop(www.brakeplace.com). I put everything back together and tried to put the drum over the shoes and it won't go over the shoes? I do have both shoes backed all the way off and the plunger inserted all the way into the wheel cylinder. Is it possible the linings are too thick and therefore not allowing the drums to fit over them? Is there a standard thickness for linings? How much room should be between the linings and the drum if backed all the way off? I wouldn't have thought they could be that thick to keep the drums for going over, but this is the only explanation I can think of with everything adjusted to allow the most room to put drums on. Thanks everyone!

Thanks again for all the help so far. I think I'm headed in the right direction with the carb-sync tool. I don't think I have them completely dialed in yet but at least it will stay running all the time now. I need to look into sealing the sync tool better to the carbs as its a little tricky with my current setup. It just got too late to mess with it more tonight. One more question: I see I have some moisture(gas) around the base of the carb. I tightened everything back up, but is this something that just happens? And if these gaskets are wet with fuel, are they still suitable? I have a feeling that if gas is seeping out, air might be getting in and not helping my situation.