mrbobs48 Posted November 5, 2010 Report Posted November 5, 2010 How did you guys get your engine block heater manual shutoff valve off that screws in the back of the block with out breaking it. I soaked it and tryed to turn it, but didn't want to break it. Its the one that hooks to your heater core. Shoud I put some heat to it? Quote
mrbobs48 Posted November 5, 2010 Author Report Posted November 5, 2010 Here is a pic of the valve Quote
greg g Posted November 5, 2010 Report Posted November 5, 2010 some heat couldn't hurt. They can be a bugger after 65 years. Quote
Robert Horne Posted November 5, 2010 Report Posted November 5, 2010 How did you guys get your engine block heater manual shutoff valve off that screws in the back of the block with out breaking it. I soaked it and tryed to turn it, but didn't want to break it. Its the one that hooks to your heater core. Shoud I put some heat to it? I applied a couple drops of transmission fluid each week for several months. Came off ok then. Quote
RobertKB Posted November 5, 2010 Report Posted November 5, 2010 Replacements can be bought at NAPA. Take the old one in with you. Quote
40phil41 Posted November 6, 2010 Report Posted November 6, 2010 Replacements can be bought at NAPA. Take the old one in with you. Anyone have the NAPA number? Both my '40 and '41 don't have a valve on the head (just a pipe elbow on the head plus a shut-off valve on the heater itself) but I would like to add one. Phil Quote
greg g Posted November 6, 2010 Report Posted November 6, 2010 Hey Phil, Hows that Tempest coming???? The studebaker and I are in a funk. But it runs and drives apart from a transmission leak at the Torque converter ( and the source of my Studie malaise) It is close to beig road ready in the spring. Quote
michael.warshaw Posted November 6, 2010 Report Posted November 6, 2010 you can try to find the dual heater valve that is the best option. Quote
40phil41 Posted November 6, 2010 Report Posted November 6, 2010 Hey Phil, Hows that Tempest coming???? The studebaker and I are in a funk. But it runs and drives apart from a transmission leak at the Torque converter ( and the source of my Studie malaise) It is close to beig road ready in the spring. Hi Greg. Actually, the Tempest is still in many many pieces. The frame is repaired and painted and all of the suspension stuff is restored and ready to go back on. Should have a rolling chassis by XMAS. The body is another story. metal repair has begun but I have a long way to go. The engine and tranny are waiting on the sidelines. In other words, you are way ahead of me. Woodward Avenue is still a ways off :-) Phil Quote
40phil41 Posted November 6, 2010 Report Posted November 6, 2010 you can try to find the dual heater valve that is the best option. Why? I never plan on installing dual heaters. Phil Quote
michael.warshaw Posted November 6, 2010 Report Posted November 6, 2010 you can cap one side, then on the inside of the car you can put a temp control knob and it will turn the heater off with the touch of pulling the knob vs opening the hood and manually closing the valve. Quote
TodFitch Posted November 6, 2010 Report Posted November 6, 2010 Replacements can be bought at NAPA. Take the old one in with you. Anyone have the NAPA number? Both my '40 and '41 don't have a valve on the head (just a pipe elbow on the head plus a shut-off valve on the heater itself) but I would like to add one. Phil I can't find my receipt and I did not record it in the database. My bad. Anyway, your "local better auto supply store" should have them in the paper catalog that has truck heater parts. Quote
Young Ed Posted November 6, 2010 Report Posted November 6, 2010 The number is found in the main page of this site in the parts listings. Quote
40phil41 Posted November 6, 2010 Report Posted November 6, 2010 The number is found in the main page of this site in the parts listings. Thanks Ed. I always forget to look there first. Phil Quote
40phil41 Posted November 6, 2010 Report Posted November 6, 2010 you can cap one side, then on the inside of the car you can put a temp control knob and it will turn the heater off with the touch of pulling the knob vs opening the hood and manually closing the valve. That's an idea but I think I'll stick with the simple approach. Heater is off 99% of the time. Phil Quote
BobT-47P15 Posted November 7, 2010 Report Posted November 7, 2010 I believe I bought my new manual "T valve" heater control item at O'reilly Automotive.....not very expensive and it was in stock. Quote
mrbobs48 Posted November 7, 2010 Author Report Posted November 7, 2010 (edited) Yes a little heat on the valve it came right off. Got a new one at Oreillys. Putting new brushes on the generator now. Replaced the starter solenoid, voltage regulator and the thermostat. New cap , rotor, points , wires , plugs a new battery and bought the orginal cables from Andy. New brakes, bearings , tires , shocks and cherry bomb muffler. Its all new so I won't have to worry about anything. Did I forget anything. LOL Thanks everyone. See you on the road in Oklahoma Edited November 7, 2010 by mrbobs48 Quote
P-12 Tommy Posted November 7, 2010 Report Posted November 7, 2010 Sounds like you're ready to motor. Have fun. Tom Quote
greg g Posted November 7, 2010 Report Posted November 7, 2010 An extra fan belt is always good to carry in the trunk, just incase. Sounds like everything else is up to snuff. Happy motoring. Quote
Roadkingcoupe Posted November 7, 2010 Report Posted November 7, 2010 you can try to find the dual heater valve that is the best option. The dual heater valves are expensive when they show up on eBay...$125-$150. For most of us that is too rich for the blood. A simple heater valve replacement should cost around $10 (or less) and it still looks appropriate on our old flatheads. I used the word appropriate rather then "authentic"..a slight modification for the POC. p.s. drove the 39 yesterday, just above freezing...did not use the heater.......no cares either. Quote
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