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Everything posted by mrbobs48

  1. Yea for me, I figured it out, I have reverse, first , second and third. The first nut on first,reverse gear shifting transmission rod is the lock nut. The second one next to the swivel is the adjusting nut to take out the slack. I can't drive it today its raining. I moved it forward and back in the garage.
  2. Well I think I found my problem on the gearshift control rod. Both adjusting nuts were in the front of the lever. Washer and spring on backside of the arm. Why would both nuts be on the front of the rod??
  3. Ok guys I took off the bellhousing to get the pressure off my 48. put in a new clutch pressure plate and motor mounts. Now I have no reverse, had it before all this. Ok I have read all the post on here, but my question is, the back transmission C lever has a neutral they say. I can push it forward and backwards. Where is neutral on that C lever?? It doesn't click in neutral like the front lever. I have tried every angle on it with arm on an off. My next step is the column adjustment. This is a pain doing it by yourself. What am I missing. I want to go for a drive.
  4. My original oil pressure rubber hose to oil gage has finally rotted. I see Andy has them for $15 plus ship. Has anyone done anything different to replace it. I am not cheap just frugal.
  5. Sorry Don didn't have my coffee first. lol
  6. Thanks Dan , where do I get new pins.
  7. Is there a special washer that goes in the front rod turnbuckle hole. Mine looks oval and when adjusting the pedal, the rod moves for an aft when pedal is pushed before the dog bone moves??
  8. mrbobs48


    Thanks I got it now. I love this forum.
  9. mrbobs48


    I have two of these that came off when I removed my bell housing. Bell housing is back on forgot where these went. I put the one for the fork spring on, but can't remember on these two.
  10. I need a pic of the left side of the bell housing with the clutch arm and shift bracket installed. Does the clutch arm and shift linkage arms bolt in the back two holes in the bell housing together. I also have 2 pointy brackets that go somewhere. I have a pointy bracket already installed for the clutch fork spring. 1948 Plymouth special deluxe.
  11. I called Andy today that's the only one they sell, he said mine must be modified. I went to City Brake and Clutch here in OKC where I had my flywheel, clutch and pressure plate redone. City brake had one that was a perfect match, $2.00.
  12. Ok here is what I have and got. Old one on left new on right.
  13. Thanks Dan, the inside dia. is same size as old one. Its the OD that is too big. I will Mic it today.
  14. I bought a new pilot bearing from Andy pulled the old one out of my 48 Plymouth. New bearing is bigger than the old one on the outside OD. What the heck is going on, Andy list all pilot bearings same size??? The old bearing is not in bad shape. Help.
  15. mrbobs48


    Better check Tulsa brake an clutch heard its closed down??
  16. mrbobs48


    Thanks guys I will try tapping the stud bolts back a little. Don't need much to get the flywheel out. Took my pressure plate and slick clutch plate to Oklahoma city brake and clutch yesterday. The only one left in Oklahoma. Family owned 40 yrs. Next cleaning the cross member and putting in new rear motor mounts.
  17. mrbobs48


    I pulled the pressure plate and clutch out with no problem. Can get the flywheel out, took out 4 nuts won't clear the top bell housing. So I stated to unbolt the bell housing how my bolt are in that thing. I have 2 in the top, 3 on the drivers side by the starter, took off 2 on the pass side. Is there more. This thing is wearing me out. I am putting new rear motor mounts also, any help would be appreciated . 1948 Plymouth special deluxe
  18. My 48 Plymouth has great engine power in 1st and second gear, but when I go to third it looses rpm in about a minute. Have to shift to second to get power again. Rebuilt carb and fuel pump. Gas line clean and clear.
  19. Has anyone built a center console for a bench seat. Need somewhere to put my drinks. Coffee and cokes. Pics if you have one.
  20. Look what I found on the front fender, who ever did this is a idiot. Put think piece of metal and 2lbs of bondo on the fender. Wonder what else I'm going to find. Aircraft stripper is the way to go.
  21. Made 2 ground wires and hooked them in the side bulb tail light brackets and ground the other end to the trunk floor. They work great. Now on to the instruments lights, taking the under dash switch apart and cleaning it. Hope it works. Then its 100 % ready for a drive.
  22. Thanks for the info everyone. Took my switches apart and cleaned them. My dome light works great even the door switch. Now on to the brake park light thing. I think the brake light needs a ground. My new wiring harness had one wire going to the bulb no ground wire.
  23. Are the tail lights suppose to be on when light switch is pulled to parking lights? Also I have -6 volts to dome light, but no light. New bulb in dome socket. Is there a ground wire on the dome light?
  24. mrbobs48

    I'm lost

    Thanks for all the tips, my Pos battery cable runs to the bottom of the motor too. I will try the extra cable to the fender. Ok did the jumper to the starter to battery thing. Nothing ,so I took off the starter and hooked up some jumpers to the battery. It ran twice and then nothing. So I have a short in the starter, I saw sparks out the back . Going to the starter repair shop.
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