seal the bolts

[DutchEdwin]

Went to the store today to buy some sealant for the bolts that go into the coolant and oil galleries. I was stunned, the guy had no idea what I was talking about. So leaves me without sealant.

Does anyone know what I can use for this?

In my manual is says that I should use sealant for the oilpan, if I recall right, between the gasket and the oilpan. What is this for, Can I better use modern fluid gasket material?

[Plymouthy Adams]

Has been like forever since I used any of this but one of the better sealants we used in the past was Permatex...non hardening type. I want to say it wa known as #2??????

[Young Ed]

Yup thats the stuff. Black non hardening permatex. Great stuff.

[DutchEdwin]

Do you have a type number on that?

That is, if I can find Permatex over here, was out of my country for a few years......

[Plymouthy Adams]

Perhaps you can go/phone a local machine shop and get their recommendation..it may be very hard for us to recommend a product here as you just stated, may not be available there...or go by yet a different trade name. One of the disadvantages of not being on the same rock.

[Young Ed]

http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/auto_adhesives_sealants/sealants/Permatex_Black_Rubber_Sealant.htm

Believe thats the stuff

[Norm's Coupe]

Edwin,

You can also try Loc-Tite. They have all kinds. You can find it in auto parts stores and industrial supply houses. Here's their web site with the sealants. They also have other sealants like this on their site. You cannot order through them though, but they would give you the name of a distributor if you have trouble finding it. http://68.72.74.108/PRODUCTS/545.htm

[randroid]

Gents,

While I enjoy using #2 Permatex where appropriate I caution that it should be used in very thin layers because it does a lousy job of sealing anything other than the minute gaps found in cork, etc., and it's a bitch to remove when time comes to redo the job. If it's a (relatively) low pressure\low temp job, like anything to do with oil and\or water, blue rtv (silicon) is my weapon of choice.

None of the stuff we buy is going to make up for warps, although I once created a shim for an old Ford carb the wasn't built to be sanded flat once it warped. I used plastic wrap to line the top of the carb body, layed some liquid aluminum arond the matching faces, layed another sheet of plastic over that and carefully torqued the top down. The next day I removed the top, trimmed the shim with an exacto knife, put the assembled carb on the truck and drove it without leaks until I traded it for a P-15 a year later.

-Randy

[Guest rockabillybassman]

Remember when plumbers used hemp to seal the threads on pipe joints? They smeared the hemp with a black graphite compound, and that's what a lot of old time emgine builders used. I got some from a local plumbers supply depot. Works just fine.

[Merle Coggins]

I like the Permatex #9 "Tack & Seal". It resembles pipe thread sealant, but it's different. It stays flexible and tacky, and seals very well. It's great for gaskets that tend to move around during assemble because it is quite tacky. It won't squish out like RTV silicone.

A good pipe thread sealer (A.K.A. Pipe Dope) would probably work fine for you too. Should be available whereever plumbing supplies are sold. That's what I used on all of my bolts and studs that went into the water jacket. So far so good.

Merle

[Don Coatney]

I used Teflon tape "shudder" ( I have been hammered for using this on the old forum) on all bolts exposed to fluid. I used the pictured Permetex on one side only of several cork gaskets in my engine assembly including the oil pan. I used grease on the other side of the gaskets. I have removed my oil pan at least twice and reinstalled it with minimul leaks upon the reinstall.

[48mirage]

Being from the other side of the pond you might be able to find some Hylomar. In fact I prefer it over the permatex #2, but my local retailers aren't carrying it anymore.

[martybose]

Hylomar is a little hard to find, but it is available; I use it in lieu of gaskets on the quickchange rearend of the race car I work on. I've got some sources at home, will post them tonight.

Marty

[martybose]

Hylomar is a little hard to find, but it is available; I use it in lieu of gaskets on the quickchange rearend of the race car I work on. I've got some sources at home, will post them tonight.

Okay, I'm home now!

If you like the hylomar gasket maker in the 8 oz can with a brush, you can get it at Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies in Wisconson, www.pegasusautoracing.com

If you like Hylomar in the squeeze tubes, or any of the Hylomar solvents or other products, they are available at Racer Parts Wholesale in Indianapolis, www.racerpartswholesale.com

I've never tried it as a bolt sealer, but might have to now!

Marty

[Normspeed]

Is Hylomar a kind of clear blue sealer? Seems like I had a tube of it that was great on older O-ring valve cover seals on a Honda CX500 I had. Resistant to almost anything.

[48mirage]

That is right a blue colored paste but it is not opaque. RTV if it gets loose can be a killer on a Harley so I use it almost everywhere on it, even the o-ring seals of the intake. Being non hardening I find it still tacky a year later.

[Normspeed]

That's the stuff. I think I'll get some more while this info is fresh. Very good stuff. I wonder how it might do on those pesky upper carb gasket leaks.

[martybose]

That's the stuff. I think I'll get some more while this info is fresh. Very good stuff. I wonder how it might do on those pesky upper carb gasket leaks.

It should work fine; it's supposed to seal up to a .010" gap, and isn't affected by fuel or oil. As I mentioned, I use it on the quickchange section of a midget rearend in our roadracer, sometimes changing the spur gears a couple of times in a test day, with no leaks whatsoever. The only caveat when doing multiple cycles like I do is to have some of their solvent handy to clean off the surface completely each time it is apart.

Marty

[bob westphal]

Permatex also makes a gasket maker/sealer product called 'Right Stuff'. Its a little pricey(about $16 a tube) but does a great job of sealing warped surfaces. Many modern wrenches use it in place of a gasket, especially on parts that are notorious leakers like valve covers , side valve cover, etc. I've used 'Right Stuff' for years. I once installed an oil pump on a import engine. and later found out I needed to remove it. I tried the old trick of tapping on the pump to break the seal of the gasket. The bolt flange on the pump broke before I got it off. I also had a '39 Buick engine that had an oil pan that wouldn't stop leaking no matter what type of gasket I used. I threw the gasket away and used 'Right Stuff'. Presto! No more leaky pan gasket. You can also use it to seal bolts in water jackets but you may have a little trouble getting the bolt loose again.

[DutchEdwin]

Thank you all for your reply

For loctite is common over here I looked up what they advise to use.

I do not want to be surprised not to get my bolts loose again. So I added the break loose force to it of a M10 bolt, about 7/16 in.

Loctite® 542 - Hydraulic Threadsealant for Fine Threads (25Nm 18.4 ft lbf) http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/542-EN.pdf

Loctite® 572 - Slow Cure (20Nm, 15 ft lbf) http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/572-EN.pdf

Loctite® 577 - General Purpose Threadsealant (17Nm, 12.5 ft lbf) http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/577-EN.pdf

for gasket replacement, the oil pan and timing chain cover:

Loctite® 518 - Gasketing Product http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/518-EN.pdf

Loctite® 510 - Gasket Eliminator - High Temperature (200°C) http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/510-EN.pdf

According to Loctite the most suitable

Loctite® 5910 - Flexible Flange Sealant High Temperature (200°C) http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/5910-EN.pdf

I'll use the loctite 5910 between the cover and gasket. between gasket and engine just a little grease to prevent it from rusting. In this way I hope I can remove it without pain staking cleaning the gasket replacement.

[Norm's Coupe]

Edwin,

Glad you can get the locktite over there. There's another company you could probably get the sealant from but can't remember the name. It is a German sealant company, so I know that would be available to you, if I could remember the name. I remember when you first bought your Plymouth. Sounds like it's finally almost ready to hit the road again.

Permatex works good too, use it myself, but only because it's a little cheaper than Locktite. However, I knew Locktite was worldwide and probably easily available to you.

[greg g]

Question regarding seeaing of threads. (Pardon my cynicysm [sic]). But while ther are some headbolts that do go throughthe coolant passages, the threaded psrtion goes into the meat of the casting below the coolant passages. The sealer will only prevent liquid from getting into the treads, and will not prevent a coolant leak at the head to block interface, this is the job of the gasket. The only place where thread sealing seems to be imortant to sealing against coolant leaks it where the manifolds (especially on 6 cylinders) atttach with studs where the stud thread hole does actually go into the coolant passage, and the treads will provide a passage to atmosphere if they do not seal. I used plumber pipe dope on these during reassembly. Guess I'm not familiar with the V8 (Edwins's engine) to know if the same applies to them.

Perhaps the intake manifold fasteners go into the coolant passages but I do not believe the headbolts or exhaust manifold bolts/studs have those issues.

Or am I crazy?????

[DutchEdwin]

Norm,

Indeed, it's a while since I bought my ride, it's been painful to get all the parts, and it's been painful in my wallet. But in the end, it's worth it. Like at your place, call GM...and it's available. Call Mopar.....MOPAR who? is the answer. The only parts you can get then are parts from the 1970 and later.

Finally to assembly. Hope to get it on the road, thanks to a lot of people like you Norm.

I think I'll be asking a lot of questions on simple items like these bolts, but heck, that's where the fun starts....figuring it all the out . have some and after that :) .

I'll keep you all informed, with pics.

Greg, for my V8, it's the same as on 6 cil. Cooling and oil galleries ending in bolts who need sealing. The head bolts do not need any sealing (but I still have to study on that subject).

Painting and cleaning is the job right now. Study on the next to come.