Joe Flanagan Posted March 14, 2011 Report Posted March 14, 2011 Keith, did you have to tweak the timing or the carb adjustments? Quote
aero3113 Posted March 14, 2011 Author Report Posted March 14, 2011 Just idle on the carb,and adjusted timing with a light. Quote
52b3b Joe Posted March 14, 2011 Report Posted March 14, 2011 The slow turning is from the tight rebuilt engine. I just got my rebuilt engine in, and it cranks just like yours with a new battery. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted March 14, 2011 Report Posted March 14, 2011 Do new car engines turn over slow? Too tight of engine clearances mean high friction which mean... well Quote
Young Ed Posted March 14, 2011 Report Posted March 14, 2011 Do new car engines turn over slow? Too tight of engine clearances mean high friction which mean... well No but they are all built the same. If you get a rebuilder that likes to stick to the tight end of the tolerances this is what you end up with. Quote
greg g Posted March 14, 2011 Report Posted March 14, 2011 Don't all new car engines have some miles on them when they get to a dealer's lot? Do they or do they not all get run on a test bench before getting installled? Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted March 14, 2011 Report Posted March 14, 2011 I think as long as one of our MoPar flathead engines was rebuilt with in correct spec'd tolerances the only reason it would turn over real slow would be because of a weak battery/bad or too small of cables or a bad starter. Today group1 and 2 batterys are really not all that powerful or long lasting unless it's a commercial grade battery. I have rebuilt probably 30-40 of these engines including the chrysler flathead 8"s and Hemi's. Had a problem with the Hemi-was the starter and a bad starter on a 39 plym. All of them cranked over just about as fast as before the rebuild. Really you wouldn't notice much difference. Just my thoughts. Bob Quote
aero3113 Posted March 14, 2011 Author Report Posted March 14, 2011 I am pretty sure my slow cranking is because of my ground. This is how my battery is hooked up: NEG terminal to the case of the alt, the POS terminal goes to the solenoid to then to the starter,there is also a wire that goes from the POS terminal to a terminal on the alt. This is how it was since I bought the car. Should I have the NEG wire go directly to the block? Or get a ground strap and install it somewhere? Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 14, 2011 Report Posted March 14, 2011 I recommend two things. Run the ground from your battery directly to the engine block not through the alternator. And add a ground strap from the block to the firewall. Quote
aero3113 Posted March 14, 2011 Author Report Posted March 14, 2011 Don, I just put a longer bolt in my firewall and I will attach the opposite end of the ground strap to the same spot on the block that you have yours. If my NEG cable will reach would the front engine mount be a good spot to connect it to? Also will any good local hardware store have the ground straps? Quote
Young Ed Posted March 14, 2011 Report Posted March 14, 2011 Your 50 plymouth should have had 1 special headbolt that is tapped for a smaller bolt. It would have been either the second or third hole from the front on the drivers side. It looks like you've replaced all your headbolts with grade 8 bolts so you probably don't have this anymore. The slightly earlier cars used a special stud with 2 nuts as seen on Don Cs engine. Quote
aero3113 Posted March 14, 2011 Author Report Posted March 14, 2011 Ed, when I first bought my Plymouth it had that head bolt with the bolt in it. When I took the head off to paint it a couple of years ago I replaced all of the head bolts with new and sold the old ones on ebay. It wasn't in use and didn't think I needed it (wish I kept it now). The bolts I replaced them with were head bolts for our flatheads, not just grade 8 bolts. Quote
greg g Posted March 14, 2011 Report Posted March 14, 2011 My ground cable goes to one of the bolts for the genny bracket. But it looks longer than yours. If it will reach your motor mount that would be agood alternative assuming no interference withthe pully or fan belt. Quote
aero3113 Posted March 14, 2011 Author Report Posted March 14, 2011 My ground cable goes to one of the bolts for the genny bracket. But it looks longer than yours. If it will reach your motor mount that would be agood alternative assuming no interference with the pulley or fan belt. I would like to go to the genny bracket but the cable is not long enough, hopefully it will reach the motor mount. Quote
hkestes41 Posted March 15, 2011 Report Posted March 15, 2011 aero, I think I have an extra one of the headbolts with the drilled head if you are interested let me know and I will take a look. I will be leaving for a quick two day business trip to Florida in the morning so it would be later this week before I could take a look. Quote
greg g Posted March 15, 2011 Report Posted March 15, 2011 Try going to the alt bracket or the alt upper bracket bolt, just for test purposes. Quote
aero3113 Posted March 15, 2011 Author Report Posted March 15, 2011 aero,I think I have an extra one of the headbolts with the drilled head if you are interested let me know and I will take a look. I will be leaving for a quick two day business trip to Florida in the morning so it would be later this week before I could take a look. Thanks, let me know when you get a chance. Quote
aero3113 Posted March 15, 2011 Author Report Posted March 15, 2011 Try going to the alt bracket or the alt upper bracket bolt, just for test purposes. I'm gonna see if I can find a ground strap tomorrow and will also move the NEG cable and see what happens. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted March 15, 2011 Report Posted March 15, 2011 I would say to use a quality heavy 2/0 copper battery cable for the battery to engine ground cable, a braided strap for the body ground "strap". Heavier 2/0 is good for heavy 6 volt current flow! Provides ample current to the starter. Make sure the other 2 cables-Bat to solenoid and solenoid to starter are sized the same. They cost a bunch but will last and work well for a lifetime if kept clean. Bob Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 15, 2011 Report Posted March 15, 2011 Also will any good local hardware store have the ground straps? Any good auto parts store should have the ground straps. Quote
Niel Hoback Posted March 15, 2011 Report Posted March 15, 2011 Farm and Fleet, TSC, buy em by the foot. Quote
aero3113 Posted March 15, 2011 Author Report Posted March 15, 2011 Farm and Fleet, TSC, buy em by the foot. Good luck finding one on Long Island. Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted March 15, 2011 Report Posted March 15, 2011 But I'll bet you could find something like that at a B&D shop in Manhattan. Quote
Niel Hoback Posted March 15, 2011 Report Posted March 15, 2011 Yes, but would the end clamps fit? Quote
Alshere59 Posted March 16, 2011 Report Posted March 16, 2011 Theres always epay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Corvette-1955-1957-1959-1962-Ground-Strap-Short-One-/140523010160?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20b7d2f870 Quote
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