Wheels/Tires too small?

[DanOlson]

Attached are a couple of pics of the new 215-75-15 tires on the B4. I got good news today about the front end regarding alignment. The owner of the small shop was familiar with the centering of the steering box and other procedures that have been discussed on this forum. Steering box, king pins, tie rod ends are all in good shape.

Bad news is that all wheels are bent and balancing is poor at best. The easy solution would be to get aftermarket steel wheels and use baby moons or something similar. I'm toying with going to 16" and taller tires that would fill the wheel wells more.

Opinions?

Dan

[DanOlson]

I believe 16" wheels were on the 1/2 tons with a 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern while the 15" on the 3/4 tons are 5 on 5" which mine is.

Can this be confirmed?

Are original 16" wheels scarce?

Dan

[Tony_Urwin]

Too bad you don't live closer to me. I have 5 original wheels in good shape with almost new tires and I would like to switch to aftermarket wheels/tires. I bought the largest radials that were narrow enough to fir the stock wheels (about 29.5-30").

If anyone else is interested, they are 15" wheels (I have a 3/4 ton) painted the stock cream color. Tires have less than 200 miles on them.

I'm in Cincinnati.

[John-T-53]

I have stock 15" wheels on my '52 half ton. I'm pretty certain they're original to the truck. I'm running P235-75-15....they're just the right size and have kind of a fat look, which I like. Hub caps have since been replaced with correct 1953 style.

[HanksB3B]

I'm not lucky enought to have 4 original wheels on my truck and I can't remember why. I know when I bought the truck for $400 I must have had at least four...(now I just have two in storage) anyway...I'd realy like to have 5 original wheels and hubcaps for my 51 B3B someday.

There are quite a few steel wheel manufactures here in California that serve the hot rod car culture out here, but I think they get around $250-$275 bucks apiece. They have the correct look an they make them any size and as wide as you want.

During my first restoration in 1979 where I did a just o.k. job I remember a swap meet at the Rose Bowl full of Chrysler parts and literature. Mopar parts both OEM, and used were all over the place. A virtual treasure trove, (and I got plenty of stuff in old boxes and that dark brown wrapping paper). I came across 4 steel hot rod wheels. All four cost me $25 and provided a way of going to larger tires and tubeless on a limited budget.

This time around starting in 2005 I knew wheels would be the last thing I had to replace so I just had them powdercoated along with a whole lot of other stuff in order to defer costs during the frame up restoration. They work well and I'm sure something like them can still be found for cheap. I'll probably always use them for everyday driving but hope to have originals someday. The Michelin P235/75 R15's will probably last a very good long time.

Hope you find something you like,

Hank

Edited July 28, 2010 by HanksB3B

[grey beard]

My original rims are 16-inch. I had them powder coated Dodge truck cream and bought 215x85 16 inch Dayton radials. These tires are 30-inches tall inflated, and have a pronounced narrew, old-school look. This makes steering a lot easier than fatter radials, especially when sitting still. They raised the truck up a few inches from the origihal 650 x 16 bias ply tires. I did this intentionally in order to get a taller rear end ratio. Now that I have a 3:73 rear in it, the trufk is much more fun to drive.

The combination of taller tires and longer rear now make first gear useful, and even necessary to get up to speed for second. I shift out of second around 30 mph, and high - 3rd gear - is tall enough for any normal hghway speeds. I am very pleased iwith this combination.

This tifre size is quite popular, as it is used on most all GM dually pickup trucks. You can find these anywhere, and they look just fine on our stock original rims. Mine are tubeless, and no problems afger three years on the wheels.

[4852dodge]

Would 15 in wheels from a 60's of 70's car work if you drill a hole for the alignment pin? This would give a newer rust free and stronger rim.

[Plymouthy Adams]

I have done this with passenger cars for a no problem fix..the late model Chrysler rims I used already had the smaller holes centered between the lug holes, the type for bolting on center caps...just open one up using the right size drill bit and you set to go..HOWEVER as this is a truck..I do not know if the backset if different on these wheels..do compare your donor rim for proper clearance prior to adapting ..

Edited July 28, 2010 by Tim Adams

[JoelOkie]

My original rims are 16-inch. I had them powder coated Dodge truck cream and bought 215x85 16 inch Dayton radials. These tires are 30-inches tall inflated, and have a pronounced narrew, old-school look. This makes steering a lot easier than fatter radials, especially when sitting still. They raised the truck up a few inches from the origihal 650 x 16 bias ply tires. I did this intentionally in order to get a taller rear end ratio. .

I have the same size tires and wheels as Dave. They, along with the corn head grease injection into the steering box, make for very easy steering. Joel

[Merle Coggins]

I have 235/75R-15's on my truck and they seem to fill the wheel wells perfectly. They are very close to the same diameter of the 6.50-15's (front) and 7.00-15's (rear) that were on there.

Dan, If you do switch to 1/2 ton 16" wheels you are correct on the bolt spacing difference. However, you could just remove your adapters on the front and find 5" - 4.5" adapters for the rears. The only issue I can forsee with that would be that the stock lug nuts don't fit into the holes in the adapters. At least not in the ones I got when I did my disc brake job.

Merle

[DanOlson]

Thanks for the replies. Interestingly, I've noticed that 15 inch aftermarket steel wheels with a 5 on 5" bolt pattern are not that common anymore. I think I'll keep my eyes open for 16" Dodge wheels with springs, but in the interim, maybe see if I can find an inexpensive set of straight 15" wheels unless I can peddle the new 215's quick.

[ggdad1951]

I have posted some of this over on the thread about repalcing split rims, but I've been working w/ Coker tire to see if I can get a hoop made that will weld up to my centers, the resultant would be a 17" rim, instead of the 16". Tires would be along the order of the Firestone 600/650-17. Thoughts? too big for these trucks?

Edited July 28, 2010 by ggdad1951

[Vintrader]

Would 15 in wheels from a 60's of 70's car work if you drill a hole for the alignment pin? This would give a newer rust free and stronger rim.

This question has come up a number of times here on the forum. Here is a picture of 15" wheels from a later 60's full size ford car on a 1952 B series truck. I can't recall the size of the tires.

Dutch

[41/53dodges]

to me it looks like they could be a little bigger and the truck could use some higher suspension. mine sits just a little higher than average.

[Guest Kuster13]

I have posted some of this over on the thread about repalcing split rims, but I've been working w/ Coker tire to see if I can get a hoop made that will weld up to my centers, the resultant would be a 17" rim, instead of the 16". Tires would be along the order of the Firestone 600/650-17. Thoughts? too big for these trucks?

I have a set of 17" lock ring rims from a 57 dodge 1 ton that I may use. Last week I dropped off at the machinist a front and rear drum, a rim (stock 6x7.25) and another rim (6x8.75). In his spare time he will see what can be done. If an adapter can be made there are lots of 6x8.75 rims. The machinist wants to make them so they are centered on the hub.

17's fit easily on a Pilot-house. The '57 rims are for a dually offset but I doubt I could find radials that will fit for the rim's to mount together. I have seen a set of 17.5" tubeless rims on a 57 dodge truck but finding replacement tires would be difficult at best.

Tom