Running again!

[pflaming]

Well, it's running again. Pulled it down put in new pistons, rings, cleaned the valve seats, got a different head and this afternoon got it running again. Oil pressure still at 40#, temp went to 180, (used the existing thermostat, ???) and ran it about 5-7 minutes. The makeshift tail pipe did not reach out the door so had to shut it down.

Preliminary observation: running a bit rough, we think the plug wires are questionable, but it sounds much quieter. I have NOT readjusted the valves but reseating them may have changed things abit.

Will extend the tail pipe tomorrow then restart it and let it run for at least 30 minutes at a nice even idle. Then shut it down and retorque the heads. How long should I run this oil? The engine will not hit the road for a while so should I just save my money until I can test drive on the road.

Will do another video when it is tuned up.

I have a lawnmower gas tank as source, holds maybe a quart at most. I fill it about 1/2 so say a large pint. At medium idle a pint of gasoline is gone in about 5 minutes. That has to be far too rich, too much usage. I rebuilt the carb: I do not have the air cleaner on. I turned the carb air valve full in then 1 1/2 turns out, any other adjustments I should consider?

Any suggestions of NEXT steps are welcomed!

Edited May 17, 2010 by pflaming
Gas consumption

[grey beard]

Paul,

Copngratulations! I realize this engine job has been a real hurdle for you - or mebby more like a giant learning curve. Glad to hear you have it up and running. Get some ventillation and run it thirty minutes, then retorque your head and manifold bolts. If you can still get to them, it would be nice to check the valve lash adjustments while it's hot, also.

Post back ahd let us know how it goes.

Good Luck

[Frank Elder]

Any suggestions of NEXT steps are welcomed!

Move the engine closer to the door:eek:Just kidding Paul:)looks like you are making good progress! Can't wait for the new video.

[pflaming]

Frankie, tried that last time, tipped the engine over and lost all the oil. This time I think I will just move the garage.

Seriously, was reading up on 'static timing' and saw "heat riser". My old manifold innerds do not have those parts. At one time I was lead to believe the heat riser was for cold climates and not needed in warm climates. The "Techinical Tips" do not agree. Question: Do I need to put in a heat riser?

Edited May 17, 2010 by pflaming

[DollyDodge]

where are you posting your videos?

[48Dodger]

Hey DD,

I have Paul's video on my Youtube Channel favorites.

http://www.youtube.com/user/194853DodgeTrucks#p/f/6/14MSWz121Gg

48D

[DollyDodge]

Thanks. I would like to post some of my videos on my two trucks, but I have never set that up in ytube. Guess I need to figure out how.

Rob

[pflaming]

Compression test: # 1 90, #2-#5 85, #6 95. Engine was cold and cranked with a 6 volt battery, so the new rings and pistons made a hugh difference.

Started it with a 6 volt battery, started on the first cycle, WOW! I was impressed. Ran it for 25 minutes this morning. Oil pressure 45# and steady, heat to around 160 degrees and steady, no oil leaks, no water leaks so the new 'freeze plugs' held and cleaning out the gunk made a big difference also. Shut it down retorqued the head and manifold, will recheck the valves next.

It runs rough and rich so need to work on the timing and carburation.

Engine pictures: I cleaned the block, clutch housing, etc with oven off, degreaser, steel brushes etc., treated them with the rust converter from ACE hardware, and the three coats of clear. I made the mistake of sandblasting the head and lost the old rust patina, but the rust converter gave a nice deep gray so I clear coated it three times and it works.

I think this 'color' scheme will look good in the new semi-gloss black engine compartment. Since I am not going to paint the body, I thought a none color engine would compliment the 'patina' theme. Got some cosmetic things to do but making headways. One thing is certain, this engine won't rust, water just rolls off, so should clean nicely also. I did the same to the tranny and brake master cylinder.

Still lots to do but jumped a major hurdle this weekend. Hope this meets your approval. When I get it tuned and in the frame will video it.

Edited October 1, 2017 by pflaming

[HanksB3B]

Wondering what ignition wires you are using ?

Thanks,

Hank

[Flatie46]

Glad to hear you got it running, it's a goood feeling for sure. When you said you cleaned the valves, did you lap them with valve grinding compound? Sometimes a rough idle will work it's self out the more you run it.

[P-12 Tommy]

Looks purdy good to me.

Tom

[pflaming]

Hank, running plug wires with filiment, don't like them but they worked fine when I started up last fall so current rough running shouldn't be the wires

Yes, did use 'grounding' powder to reseat the valves

QUESTION: The distributor shaft has a flat 'blade' on its end. Does it go into a gear or into 90 degree slot? If there is a gear in the oil pump, is it possible to be a gear or two off? A mechanic friend suggested I look into this. I did remove the distributor and did rotate the crank shaft when I did the piston/rings.

[Don Coatney]

Compression test: # 1 90, #2-#5 85, #6 95. Engine was cold and cranked with a 6 volt battery, so the new rings and pistons made a hugh difference.

Started it with a 6 volt battery, started on the first cycle, WOW! I was impressed. Ran it for 25 minutes this morning. Oil pressure 45# and steady, heat to around 160 degrees and steady, no oil leaks, no water leaks so the new 'freeze plugs' held and cleaning out the gunk made a big difference also. Shut it down retorqued the head and manifold, will recheck the valves next.

It runs rough and rich so need to work on the timing and carburation.

Engine pictures: I cleaned the block, clutch housing, etc with oven off, degreaser, steel brushes etc., treated them with the rust converter from ACE hardware, and the three coats of clear. I made the mistake of sandblasting the head and lost the old rust patina, but the rust converter gave a nice deep gray so I clear coated it three times and it works.

I think this 'color' scheme will look good in the new semi-gloss black engine compartment. Since I am not going to paint the body, I thought a none color engine would compliment the 'patina' theme. Got some cosmetic things to do but making headways. One thing is certain, this engine won't rust, water just rolls off, so should clean nicely also. I did the same to the tranny and brake master cylinder.

Still lots to do but jumped a major hurdle this weekend. Hope this meets your approval. When I get it tuned and in the frame will video it.

Good idea on the live engine stand

Great way to mock up and test an engine!

[Powerhouse]

Dizzy can only go in two ways...the flat blade goes in a slot on the end of the oil pump which is run by a gear on the cam shaft. Some run engines with dizzy in upside down..from what I've heard.

[Jerry Roberts]

" QUESTION: The distributor shaft has a flat 'blade' on its end. Does it go into a gear or into 90 degree slot? If there is a gear in the oil pump, is it possible to be a gear or two off? "

Your distributor is in right as the engine runs . As you mentioned earlier , your timing might be a little off .

[pflaming]

Greybeard asked me to keep posted so. . . timing was way off, got that in line via (a) static timing, then ( timing light. That made a big difference. It still is too rough. Going fishing tomorrow then will put in high test gas on Thursday, set the idle a bit higher and let it run. Maybe the RICH mixture has things abit carboned up and a faster idle, better gas, and 30 - 45 minutes will smooth it out and maybe the valves are have not found 'home' yet either.

I did NOT change any electrical when I changed the pistons. On the first run, as shown in my video, that engine did not rock one iota. So new pistons, rings, and reseated valves and the timing was way ( full inch + ) to the right of the timig mark. We had to adjust the dizzy from the back then the front to get it.

QUESTION: Will new parts impact timing? Does the friction of new pistons and rings trickle back and 'ask' for new time to fire? This has been fun, educational, and perplexing at times but well worth the learning curve.

Any suggestions to getting a smoother run will be appreciated.

After thought: Maybe I need to check the valve clearances, warm it up, check valves then let it run.

Edited May 19, 2010 by pflaming

[JBNeal]

First starts for the '48 & '49 were a li'l rough & smoky at first, but once all the residual oils got burned off and the engine got up to temperature, I was able to smooth things out a little. Definitely get some new gasoline running through the lines, that should help out, the clearer the gas in the fuel bowls, the better. Maybe you've got a spark plug wire that ain't seated properly, so you can check by pulling one wire off at a time while it's running to see if that changes anything. And the shorter the ignition coil lead to the cap, the better.

[Frank Elder]

Greybeard asked me to keep posted so. . . timing was way off, got that in line via (a) static timing, then ( timing light. That made a big difference. It still is too rough. Going fishing tomorrow then will put in high test gas on Thursday, set the idle a bit higher and let it run. Maybe the RICH mixture has things abit carboned up and a faster idle, better gas, and 30 - 45 minutes will smooth it out and maybe the valves are have not found 'home' yet either.

I did NOT change any electrical when I changed the pistons. On the first run, as shown in my video, that engine did not rock one iota. So new pistons, rings, and reseated valves and the timing was way ( full inch + ) to the right of the timig mark. We had to adjust the dizzy from the back then the front to get it.

QUESTION: Will new parts impact timing? Does the friction of new pistons and rings trickle back and 'ask' for new time to fire? This has been fun, educational, and perplexing at times but well worth the learning curve.

Any suggestions to getting a smoother run will be appreciated.

After thought: Maybe I need to check the valve clearances, warm it up, check valves then let it run.

Paul the one thing I can tell you for sure is our engines don't run any different on 87-91 test, so you can save a few pennies there...the engine will run harder with new parts it is just getting them broke in and tuned that will drive ya nuts:)

[pflaming]

Update: The engine ran rough at first: today set the gaps on the plugs, they were not even, attached the front motor mount and stablized it better, lowered the float in the carb and "bingo" it runs smooth. After it was warm did some adjusting of the valves. The link below shows the results. Gonna put it in the frame next. Enjoy!

Edited March 27, 2018 by pflaming

[Flatie46]

That's how them flaties act when they're happy!

[Merle Coggins]

Sonds good.

I like the garage door opener arm / starter arm extension.

[pflaming]

It works so well thinking of putting a pulley on the block and run a rope into the cab. Seriously, it starts on the second hit with a six volt battery. Good timing and good plugs make a difference.

[HanksB3B]

about wires was that after I changed to cloth covered non-supression ignition wires on my 6-volt truck. This made a BIG difference because I was using supression wires that showed a lot of resistance. After installing them, it was then possible to lower my idle to what what must be well under 500rpm. It gets all the juice it needs at throttle up. Just a thought for somewhere in the future for you.

Your engine sounds real good,

Hank

P.S. New, show-quality lacquered-cotton spark plug wire set for all 1949 19501951 1952 1953 1954 Dodge- De Soto - Chrysler Windsor . Cable jackets have glossy black-lacquer coating and inner conductors are plated copper like the original equipment.

These are carried by:

Roberts Motor Parts: 978-363-5407

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