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Posted

Yeh, the cam one does nothing apart from stop the cam upsetting the flywheel.........that other one behind the flywheel tho' is a real pain, should NEVER be a steel plug, ALWAYS put a brass plug there...........or find some way to weld the hole shut.........lol...........andyd

Posted

Being there is one at the back of the block. How hard is it to remove the bell housing with motor in the car? I presently have the transmission dropped and linkages removed that attach to the bell housing. I have the engine supported under the oild pan. Apart from removing the mount bolts and removing the bell housing is there anything that should be a concern?

Thanks,

Dave

Posted

Remove your flywheel first. The bell housing wraps around behind the flywheel and would have to go up and over if still in place. With the engine in the car that wouldn't be very easy. With the flywheel removed the bell housing comes off easy.

Merle

Posted

Thank-you Merle,

Turns out I had to unbolt the flywheel and remove the bell housing and flywheel at the same time. I did not have enough clearance to remove the flywheel by itself.

Now onto the freezeplugs!!

Thanks again,

Dave

Posted

Wow!...I'm in the middle of replacing that same plug. trans came out today, clutch f'wheel and bell housing manana. So just had a few ??'s answered by this post...thanks guys!!

Quick question...the trans tipped forward on the way out and oil poured out the front of it....why and what's the fix???

thanks......Gerry

Posted

That happened to me when I removed my transmission (stock 3 speed). I found the culprit to be a vent hole in the top right corner (as you are looking at the front of the transmission) I was just careful not to tip it again!:D

Posted
Wow!...I'm in the middle of replacing that same plug. trans came out today, clutch f'wheel and bell housing manana. So just had a few ??'s answered by this post...thanks guys!!

Quick question...the trans tipped forward on the way out and oil poured out the front of it....why and what's the fix???

thanks......Gerry

Glad to find I am not the only one!!:) I do not have an answer other than mine did the same thing.

Dave

Posted

That same hole is cause for needing a gasket between the bellhousing and the trans.

Posted

You only tipped it over. When I had it out I tried to be smart on refill. Had it on its side, filler plug up, and tried to fill it. Had to wipe half a can of oil from the floor :o, and give CPR to my son as he was almost on the floor for laughter.

The hole in the tranny is there because a shaft will come out there when you shift into a gear. So do not plug it off.

Posted
You only tipped it over. When I had it out I tried to be smart on refill. Had it on its side, filler plug up, and tried to fill it. Had to wipe half a can of oil from the floor :o, and give CPR to my son as he was almost on the floor for laughter.

The hole in the tranny is there because a shaft will come out there when you shift into a gear. So do not plug it off.

Sounds like something I would do!! On the same note. I noticed the gasket has a hole cut there as well, yet the hole mates to a flat flange on the bell housing. There is no ajoining opening on the bell housing--flat.

When I cut a new gasket would it be necessary to cut a hole in the gasket in that location??

Thanks,

Dave

Posted
This thread discusses the hole and gasket a bit.

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=2086&highlight=transmission+gasket

As stated, I did not cut the hole for use on my D24 with fluid drive and still have no shifting problems.

The only additional travel gained for any shifting rod in the transmission would be the thickness of the chosen gasket, as my bell housing is solid forward of that hole.

My original gasket had the hole.

EDIT: in this thread Tod has posted a pic of the gasket.

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=14975&highlight=transmission+gasket

Thank-you. Very informative.

Dave

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