_shel_ny Posted May 3, 2010 Report Share Posted May 3, 2010 (edited) ... Edited September 5, 2011 by shel_bizzy_48 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted May 3, 2010 Report Share Posted May 3, 2010 Could just be rust build up inside the drum. It may clear up after a couple of brake applications. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted May 3, 2010 Report Share Posted May 3, 2010 Does it lock up in reverse?? If not do a few back up and brake hard and see if it clears up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reg Evans Posted May 3, 2010 Report Share Posted May 3, 2010 Does it lock up in reverse?? If not do a few back up and brake hard and see if it clears up. Was just gonna say the same thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Mulders Posted May 4, 2010 Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 Shel, I hope that is just a bit of rust. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted May 4, 2010 Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 If it didn't clear up after a couple of brake applications then it's not surface rust buildup. May be contaminated shoes, or the left side isn't working like it should. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
insaneradio Posted May 5, 2010 Report Share Posted May 5, 2010 (edited) I will agree with previous posters. Sounds as though you have to dig a little deeper. You are certainly not the first to have brake issues on their Plymouth!! At this very moment I am replacing my shoes and cylinders. I am waiting for a grease seal for the left wheel to complete it. I am going to go to silicone brake fluid in the hopes it will cut down on the corrosion. Here is my right side. I just recently came across the recommendation to cut stots in the anchor bolts to allow for adjustment once the shoe is on. What a great tip!! I have spent 20 years driving like I had no brakes---basically cause I didn't!! After performing the adjustment as described in the technical tips I for once had decent brakes. It was at this point I decided to replace everything and adjust properly and then I would be set for the long haul. Good Luck with yours. OOPS! Thought I better add. No I did not install my drums with duct tape on my shoes!! I tape then during the installation and final prep. I find it helps to keep them clean untill the very end. Dave Edited May 5, 2010 by insaneradio Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted May 5, 2010 Report Share Posted May 5, 2010 Good idea on the duct tape. For a second there I thought I saw Red Green. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted May 5, 2010 Report Share Posted May 5, 2010 Ha I didn't even notice the tape. I thought for some reason you had a groove down the shoe to allow dust out or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
insaneradio Posted May 6, 2010 Report Share Posted May 6, 2010 Any dust in the area that needs to escape can go through the open area between the jack stand and the solid part of the car which should be sitting squarely on the stand:eek:Please be safe when working on your old cars:) Support them solidly. First pic on a solid support. Second pic checking the CG when you only have one jack, and want to swap tires and wheels from front to back to check clearances. (temp situation, with no under vehicle work)(trunk and half the hood open to maintain balance) Yes, I have since repositioned after picture was taken. It really was not as bad as the pic depicted. Nonetheless I did reposition. Thanks----- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
insaneradio Posted May 6, 2010 Report Share Posted May 6, 2010 I am having difficulty adjusting the left front shoes. I am curious--Are there differences in the front and rear shoes on the same wheel?? Thanks, Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted May 7, 2010 Report Share Posted May 7, 2010 Pictured is what a brake shoe looks like if not adjusted correctly. If you do not have the required Ammco tool or Miller equivlent you shouls use a sharpie and make several hash marks across the brake shoe. Make your adjustments, reinstall the drum and wheel, and drive around the block exersizing the brakes several times. Then remove the wheel and drum and look at the hash marks to see if you have even contact between the full length of the shoes and the drum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
insaneradio Posted May 17, 2010 Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 Glad to see you found the culprit. I hope you have better luck cleaning your shoes once they have been contaminated with fluid. Seems they never some totally clean for me. I suspect you should be able to stretch and pull the seal from the piston. If it leaked once it will again. I do not beleive the outer boot is there for sealing against leakage but rather as a "dust boot". The seal on the piston is your main defence against leaks onto your shoes. Good Luck with it!! Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Fred Posted May 24, 2010 Report Share Posted May 24, 2010 sorry, i did not completely understand:confused: my english is sometimes too bad for all this technical stuff. so what you do is you cut slits into the anchor bolts, which control the "heel" adjustment of the shoes, and then you can do a "touchy-feely" adjustment with both "toe" and "heel" eccentric tappets while your drums are on? am i right and the only difference between your P15 brakes and my P10 brakes is that yours is double simplex with 2 wheel cyls and mine is a duplex with only 1? so i could do that to my anchor bolts, too? that would be great. sorry for highjacking here... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
insaneradio Posted May 24, 2010 Report Share Posted May 24, 2010 Good idea on the duct tape. For a second there I thought I saw Red Green. That brought back memories!! I lived in ND for a number of years and we would watch him there. He was darn funny!! I watched several small clips on You-Tube recently. VERY entertaining! Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
insaneradio Posted May 24, 2010 Report Share Posted May 24, 2010 (edited) sorry, i did not completely understand:confused: my english is sometimes too bad for all this technical stuff.so what you do is you cut slits into the anchor bolts, which control the "heel" adjustment of the shoes, and then you can do a "touchy-feely" adjustment with both "toe" and "heel" eccentric tappets while your drums are on? am i right and the only difference between your P15 brakes and my P10 brakes is that yours is double simplex with 2 wheel cyls and mine is a duplex with only 1? so i could do that to my anchor bolts, too? that would be great. sorry for highjacking here... I found the suggestion on the Forum in the "technical tips" at the home page. Look in the tool bar to the left and you will find "technical tips". A LOT of good information there!! I cut a slot in the anchor bolts. This allows for adj of the heel of the shoe with the drum on. Here is a pic of mine. If you look closely at the anchor bolt you will see the slot. It is a great help. I still found it a bit of a challenge to adj properly. Having to make the adj with the screwdriver was easy. The difficult part was tightening the anchor bolt without moving it. Good Luck with it! Dave Edited May 24, 2010 by insaneradio Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Fred Posted May 24, 2010 Report Share Posted May 24, 2010 thanks, dave! i haven't read the complete tech section yet, it's sad that it can't be printed to pdf anymore... it sure is full of great tips and tricks! i'll do this to my brakes as well, since i'm still not to satisfied with them. back to topic:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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