Dan's Hemi swap project

[Dan Babb]

I thought I'd create a post just for updates on my hemi project.

That way, I can just keep this post active instead of creating a new one when I hit some milestones.

I spent tonight cleaning it up a bit. Two hours in the garage and I only got the top half cleaned up...and there's still some gunk that needs a second go-round.

The bottom half is worse...I might just have to spray on the degreaser, then hit it with a power washer (after sealing up the exhaust ports real good.

Anyone have a better idea?

[kencombs]

Easy off is the best degreaser I've found for dirty cast/steel. Just be aware that everything will come off, including paint.

Be careful with this stuff, the active ingredient is lye and will burn skin and damage eyes. Use goggles, rubber gloves long sleeves etc.

May take more than one application but it will 'git 'er done'.

[wayfarer]

Come on now, how many folks go to that much effort when they clean their oven???

Dan, just noticed that wild oil filter canister. A remote will clean things up, or, one of my adapters:

The filter base rotates on the center bolt so you have some options.

.

[Dan Babb]

I'll take one of the oil adapters when I get you the water pump.

Damn...this thing is heavy. I might need a steel box to ship it in.

Seems like no matter what I'm working on, the easy projects turn into difficult ones. All the bolts came out easy...except one.

[Dan Babb]

-Bolt extraction update -

Welded a nut to the bolt, but the nut kept coming off.

So I drilled it out and ultimately got the most of it out. But the bolt is still filling the threads. So I drilled it out with a 5/16th bit (that's what your supposed to use for a 3/8th tap) and the damn cheap tap I have won't cut through.

I probably need to order a tap that's harder than the one that came in the set I bought a while ago.

The goal for the weekend is to get the heads off so I can get them to the machine shop on Monday for a thorough cleaning and inspection. Also want to get an engine stand so I can flip it over and get a look inside.

[Dave72dt]

Next time weld a washer to the bolt first. Most times you can then work the bolt loose with a pair of pliers. If you can't get it to budge with pliers, then weld nut to the washer. You can get weld penetration with the washer that you cant get with the nut alone.

[kencombs]

Well I don't know anyone that doesn't use gloves when cleaning the oven.

As for the goggles: I spent a few days with patches on both eyes hoping they would heal after a chemical splash accident.

We only get one pair, they have to last birth to death, do what you wish but I will protect mine.

[Flatie46]

Sometimes the when you weld the nut the zinc plating on the old bolt or new nut will not let the weld penetrate good, it helpes if you prep it a little. After you weld you want to let it cool really good because the heat has just swelled the bolt larger. You then might want to heat the area around it to expand the hole before trying to remove it. Then you might have done all this and still had to drill it. I myself don't buy cheap taps cause if break one off in something you'll then learn how to cuss in chinese. Also get rid of 'em if they're dull or chipped. PM me your address I'll send you a good one.

[Dan Babb]

Thanks for the tips. I wound up buying a better tap and got it almost fully threaded. It's far enough to hold the water pump in place nice & tight.

[Plymouthy Adams]

now that you have the first of the threads chased..get a "bottom tap" and continue the job..explained below

STRAIGHT FLUTE TAPS: Our taps can be used for both machine or hand tapping. They are most economical for use on production runs. Best used on material that produce chips or where swarf breaks readily.

Hand (or machine) taps can be supplied in sets of 3 pieces: TAPER, SECOND & BOTTOM leads

TAPER (T) TAPS: have a chamfer (lead) of 6 to 8 threads, the angle of the lead being around 4-5 degrees per side. The taper lead distributes the cutting force over a large area AND the taper-shape at the end of the thread helps the thread to start. They can therefore be used to start a thread prior to use of the Second or Bottom leads or used for ‘through’ holes

SECOND (S) TAPS: have a chamfer (lead) of 3 to 6 threads, the angle of the lead being around 8 degrees per side. They are most popular and can be used for ‘through’ holes or even ‘blind’ holes where the thread does not need to go right to the bottom of the hole

BOTTOM ( TAPS: have a chamfer (lead) of 1.1/2 to 2.1/2 threads, the angle of the lead being around 18 degrees per side. They are used to produce threads close to the bottom of ‘blind’ holes

Notes: The name PLUG is commonly used to indicate a Bottom tap. - However, in America it is used to indicate a Second tap. - To avoid confusion the terminology that should correctly be used, as stated by British Standard 949, 1979 is: BOTTOM tap or BOTTOMING tap

Also a variation is that SECOND taps are sometimes called ‘intermediate’ and TAPER taps called ‘first’

[Flatie46]

I didn't know Chysler made industrial hemis. What was that engine used for?

[Kingdave]

Theres a farm right here near me that grows sweet corn and they have a pump for irrigation thats driven by a 354 Hemi . It has thousands of hours on it !

[Dan Babb]

This one was in an aircraft tug..used at a small airport. It was last being used at Richard Childress Racing's air field and one of the mechanics there pulled it when they were getting a new tug.

[Dan Babb]

Got the hemi back from the engine shop.

Engine fully rebuilt

Crank needed the mains welded and ground back to stock specs.

New Cam & lifters

Adjustable pushrods

and a bunch of other stuff.

I have the accessories, so I'll get those mounted up. Might as well store them on the engine and free up some shelf space.

Then when it cools off outside, I'll start with the breakdown and get the engine in for a test fit. Once I see where things line up, I'll decide on the transmission.

[Young Ed]

What a beautiful piece of engineering. I bet that rebuild set you back! The 241 hemi I had was a 2K rebuild. Only extra item it needed was a $100 sleeve in one cylinder

[Dan Babb]

The shop bill was $2400...but that included the crank work (that was outsourced to a shop that specializes in that stuff), new exhaust valves & retainers, springs, gaskets, bearings and other misc engine parts.

I have a bit over another $1,500 in these parts

Rebuilt W/P

Manifold

Cam

lifters & Adj. pushrods

Oil filter adapter & by pass plug

MSD Electronic Distributor

New rubber seals for the plug tubes

I still need to buy a carb for it, but I think that's pretty much it. So say $400 there.

I paid $1,000 for the engine.

So I'm at around $5,300 for the complete engine. I think that's about what I expected.

Still need to decide on the transmission, adapter, driveshaft & rear axle. Also going to do a front disc conversion. So I'm not done spending money yet.

[Young Ed]

Dan what size is that one again? 392? 354?

[Dan Babb]

It's a 354. Came out of an aircraft tug. The engine is from 1956.

[Juday1951]

VERY COOL!!! I just saw your post over on the H.A.M.B about this project and just now found it here too. I'll definitely be tuning in to this thread as it progresses. Good luck!

[tysouthwick]

Theres a 56 354 hemi listed for 1000 dollars on craigslist that I want to put in my truck is this a reasonable price for one

[Dan Babb]

That's what I paid for mine. The insides of my engine looked pretty good. If I weren't doing a cam swap, I probably would have just driven it without a rebuild for a while. My engine was running when it was pulled out of the tug too.

If the one you see was/is a running engine, that's about what I see them go for.

Go ahead and buy it..then hurry up and get it installed in your truck. That way, you can tell me what I need to do to get it fit in mine.

[tysouthwick]

Right now the engine is torn apart, but i talked with the owner and he the it has been inspected for any damage and is in perfect condition:cool:

[wayfarer]

Right now the engine is torn apart, but i talked with the owner and he the it has been inspected for any damage and is in perfect condition:cool:

HHHmmmm, perfect, eh? Unless it was rebuild and then never assembled I would question the 'perfect' condition. Perhaps it is in 'perfect condition to be rebuilt', or in 'perfect condition' because it isn't broken.... Check the block with a bore gauge and you'll likely find excess taper and out-of-round, as this is very common in well used engines. Cranks are usually better but still need to be checked. Heads that have sat in a pile will need rebuilding. The oil used in the old days was non-detergent and usually caused lots of cam lobe wear.

It also occurs to me that too many folks tear down an engine then loose half of the small parts when they fail to 'bag 'n tag' so be cautious.

So, $1k for a pile-o-parts?

[tysouthwick]

Im slowly talking down In price trying to get to around 650. How much is a good rebuild kit for one of these?

[Dan Babb]

Ty...did you get the Hemi?

Update on mine.

4 hours of work and thanks to the help of a great neighbor (and new best friend), hit a milestone.

Got the engine out finally.

Someday, when the swap is complete, I'll try my hand at doing a rebuild on the old flathead just to have it freshened up.