Water leaking through cowl vent....still

[47heaven]

After replacing the cowl vent rubber with a new one, I am still getting water leaking through it and dripping onto the floorboard. There's an adjustment on the lever, but not sure where exactly it's supposed to be adjusted too. Is there some rubber that goes around the bottom of the cowl vent door or can some be placed there to allow a better seal? Who else has had issues with this and how did you solve it?

[steveplym]

The rubber hose is attached to the drain pipe right? That happened to me and I didn't know there was supposed to be a hose and it drained on the floor. Now it has stopped leaking.

[greg g]

The picture also shows there is some adjustment on the lever. looseng the nut on the bolt allows the two pieces to be shortened or lengthened in telation so each other.

You want to make sure the drain hode is conected an also ru awire or some compressed air through the fitting. All it takes is a couple spider nests to stop up the drain and allow water to raise above the lip

[Tom Skinner]

Dear 47 Heaven,

You can adjust that nut to tighten the armature, but only do it a wee bit.

You could Monk up the armature - read bend it with to much adjustment

then have to replace it.

So be careful.

I'll tell you how I stopped my leak after a New Rubber Gasket.

I took Wax Paper and cut a piece a little larger than the Cowl Vent, then I caulked around the Cowl Vent Rubber liberally use clear or black caulk your choice, then I carefully laid the Wax Paper over the area then closed the vent snug tight. Let it cure a day or so then remove Wax paper and WALA

no leaks. You can trim excess if need be and it is vitually water tight.

Tom Skinner

Huntersville NC

[47heaven]

Hey guys...thanks for the imput. I went and checked to see if the rubber hose was connected, and it was. The only thing is that it wasn't a rubber hose, but a thin plastic one that I noticed was kinked where it came out and bent along the firewall. I figured that was as the problem, but when I disconnected the hose from the cowl drain I didn't notice any water in there that might have been backed up from last week. Nonetheless, I went and replaced it with 1/2" heater hose that slipped on nice and didn't kink. Before slipping it on I put a pipe cleaner through the drain and it didn't appear clogged.

Now, I have attached some pics I just took showing the vent door closed. It looks to off alignment somewhat on the passenger side (see pics). I noticed when I had taken the cowl vent assembly out that there were 2 sets of bolts I had to take out on each side, besides the main armature in the middle for the lever. Each side to seem to have two small arms connected by the two bolts that went through long slots on each arm to allow adjustment, I asssume. Would these be the connectors that adjust each side of the vent, and is this why the vent door isn't sitting straight?

Also, in one of the pics (with the vent open) you can see that the corner of the vent opening some of the rubber gasket seems to be lifting slightly. How would I fix this so that I wouldn't have to pull the gasket all off and do it all over again?

[Norm's Coupe]

You're right. That gasket looks lifted on the one corner. That is probably why the vent lid isn't sitting straight. It's also probably why the vent leaked. Don't know how you'd fix that short of lifting the gasket and stretching it over and down tight on that corner. Do that and you'll probably fix both problems.

[47heaven]

You're right. That gasket looks lifted on the one corner. That is probably why the vent lid isn't sitting straight. It's also probably why the vent leaked. Don't know how you'd fix that short of lifting the gasket and stretching it over and down tight on that corner. Do that and you'll probably fix both problems.

It's slightly lifted' date=' but still somewhat attached. When I close the door tight, it goes back into place. [/size']

[Norm's Coupe]

It's slightly lifted, but still somewhat attached. When I close the door tight, it goes back into place.

That may be. But.......if it's not sealed against the bottom, water can still seep through under the gasket, causing it to leak.

[47heaven]

That may be. But.......if it's not sealed against the bottom' date=' water can still seep through under the gasket, causing it to leak.[/quote']

Okay, I'll see if I can reseal that part and give it the water test tomorrow. Thanks!

[Plymouthy Adams]

actually the vent cowl opening is one part and gets the rubber seal attached whereas the second inner opening is attached beneath the cowl and is the water catch tray complete with drain tube...IF the seal opening has any rust through holes, you will not get a proper seal, same goes for the integrity of the lower tray and any water that does bypass the outer seal will drip inside, if holes, rusted drain tube, lack of hose attached to the tube or plugged tube preventing water from exiting the system you surely will get a damp carpet..

[TodFitch]

actually the vent cowl opening is one part and gets the rubber seal attached whereas the second inner opening is attached beneath the cowl and is the water catch tray complete with drain tube...IF the seal opening has any rust through holes, you will not get a proper seal, same goes for the integrity of the lower tray and any water that does bypass the outer seal will drip inside, if holes, rusted drain tube, lack of hose attached to the tube or plugged tube preventing water from exiting the system you surely will get a damp carpet..

Carpet? You post-war car guys have carpet in front? Wow! Rubber mat was typical for pre-war.

One of my two cowl vent drain hoses was off and I noticed some drips on the floor. Haven't driven in the rain since I fixed that so I don't know if that was the only problem. . .

[Plymouthy Adams]

true Todd..but most folks over the ages have gone on to carpet...the ability to find a molded rubber mat of integrity that will maintain this integrity after installation (given the NOS did not split up rolling it) is rare...carpet was an option on my car when produced..it is standard equipment in my re-do..

The only vehicle I have that has a rubber matt is the Ramcharger..true to truck form this is a vehicle you can was with a water hose...on the inside...

[Young Ed]

Tod rubber mat was standard until 52. 52 carpet became available but it was an option as Tim said. Dads 51 convert had a rubber mat when new.

[Norm's Coupe]

Tod,

My front mats were rubber in my 48 too. But........when I did the interior I took the old rubber mat out and replaced it with carpet, as I like the carpet better.